Do ALL banjo rearends require a hub puller to remove the brake drum?

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by chopnchaneled

...what is involved in doing this?
"Having the brake drum removed with out pulling the hub on the rear"?
TKS

If I am understanding your question, you can't. The posts are referring to drums that have been modified to come off of the hubs or aftermarket setups. You will not be able to pull the original drums without pulling the hubs, they are an assembly.

[mfagan]

Anybody ever use a “knocker”?

[G.M.]

The long taper is made to lock on and could run even WITHOUT a key.
You should clean the hub and axle with lacquer thinner or starting
fluid so it is completely dry and wedges on. If the key has a line down
the side that means the axle has moved. I would replace a worn key
and dry as described above. It takes a good strong puller like the
snap on blue point to remove the drums. G.M.

[my4dv8]

Luckily I suppose , we had not driven our new to us 32 very far ,25 or 30 miles. While doing other work , we decided the welded on spring hangers on the original rear needed to go. They were an accident waiting to happen.
First clue was no cotter pins through the axle nuts. Got my trusty puller out . Undid the nuts easily , then the drum and hub just pulled off by hand, the taper was also slathered in grease.
Swapping the rear axle for a 35/36 rear now.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by G.M.

The long taper is made to lock on and could run even WITHOUT a key.
You should clean the hub and axle with lacquer thinner or starting
fluid so it is completely dry and wedges on. If the key has a line down
the side that means the axle has moved. I would replace a worn key
and dry as described above. It takes a good strong puller like the
snap on blue point to remove the drums. G.M.

Now, George, you know the drums are liable to go egg shape or the lugs can be ruined by using that hub puller. I'm sure you know better than that, you must be thinking of that Brand X you got hidden in the garage!

[chopnchaneled]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

If you go with separate hub & drum assemblies, it does make servicing the brakes a lot easier, however, if/when you need to take the complete rear apart, you will still need a puller to remove the hub from the tapered axle, unless the axle nut has not been torqued to spec.

What drum or drums can you use for the rear ?
Thanks

[philipswanson]

Switch over to Lincoln brakes on the rear, then the drums come off easy. See Speedway catalog. Much better brake.

[19Fordy]

You can use the MT Brake Products 1939 Lincoln drums with your stock hubs if you carefully separate your stock drums from their hubs. They are swedged on. Do not try to separate the drum from the studs with a hammer. You could also use the MT hubs that come with studs pressed in but, reuse your old Ford made wheel bearings Call MT Brake products to confirm.

[mfagan]

Anybody ever use a “knocker”?

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by mfagan

Anybody ever use a “knocker”?

That's why junk axles have mushroomed threads.

[deuce_roadster]

My understanding is that those "knocker" nuts are great for breaking parts inside the banjo. ANY rear hub that is properly installed and torqued needs to be removed with a puller that engages the step in the hub behind the taper. The remake or original KR Wilson puller is your best option.
I suppose a loose hub that you could almost pull off with your hands would appear to come loose with a "knocker" but not one that is tight enough on the taper to drive the rear wheel.