Charging test question...

[mystic122468]

I just finished replacing the front bearing in my Generator and I want to be sure that it's functioning. can I simply disconnect the battery for a few seconds to see if it keeps running for vitrifaction?

Thanks in advance!

[Tom Wesenberg]

You could if the generator is charging enough to turn on the cutout, but don't rev the engine and make the generator put out high voltage.

A better test is to use a volt meter and see if the voltage goes up a little more than the battery shows with the engine off.

Another easy check is to shine your lights on the garage wall with the engine running at fast idle, then turn off the engine and see if the lights dim slightly as the engine dies. If they dim then you know the generator was working.

[Mongo]

You can also bench test it by spinning it with a variable speed drill. You will feel it load up the field and with a voltmeter you will can see the "voltage" out put.

[eagle]

How about putting an ammeter on it and then you will know exactly your charge current.

[johnbuckley]

Originally Posted by Mongo

You can also bench test it by spinning it with a variable speed drill. You will feel it load up the field and with a voltmeter you will can see the "voltage" out put.

What voltage should it show to verify that it is functioning OK?

[johnbuckley]

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1)Using a multimeter what tests can one do on the bench to check if a generator is working OK. 2)Ditto what tests when it's on the car (I am also not sure if the cutout is functional thus need to verify generator is OK, separately from cutout tests ) 3) Any recommended website for an idiot's guide to Ford A generator rebuilding?

[Tom Wesenberg]

At about 750 generator RPM the generator should be putting out 7 volts. Spinning it is the only sure way to know it's working correctly.

Connect a 6 volt battery to the cutout case and input terminal, and you should feel the cutout click closed, and pass the input terminal voltage to the output terminal. I test them with a 10 amp load, so I know the contacts are good, and past the current without a voltage drop.

[johnbuckley]

Thanks Tom, As ever I don't know what we'd do without you. Here's pictures of mine dis-assembled. Apart from the poor wire to the coil does every thing else look OK? Any tests I should do on it before I bolt it all together?(bushes are good- no play) Have I got it correct that the bush at the top of the photo goes to the coil and the one on the right goes to the output terminal?IMG_0389.jpg

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[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by johnbuckley

Thanks Tom, As ever I don't know what we'd do without you. Here's pictures of mine dis-assembled. Apart from the poor wire to the coil does every thing else look OK? Any tests I should do on it before I bolt it all together?(bushes are good- no play) Have I got it correct that the bush at the top of the photo goes to the coil and the one on the right goes to the output terminal?

This should help.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Yes, the adjustable brush goes to the field winding.
Liquid tape works great to protect the wires where the insulation fell off. It's also good to use where the field wrapping might be failing.
You need a new adjustable brush because a piece is broken away on your's.
The brushes are mounted wrong. The short side of the brush always faces the mounting pivot for all 3 brushes.
The thin brush is the adjustable brush, as you have it.

Something doesn't look right about your ground brush mount. It looks like parts are missing, and it is loose in the post.

Also, you might want to spin the pulley in a lathe to smooth it some. Those rough rust pits can chew up a V belt.

[johnbuckley]

Thanks for the wiring diagram Mike which confirms the twit that had the generator before me put insulation washers etc in the wrong places- in effect he had everything grounded, and thanks for help Tom re brushes etc -yes the ground brush mount is worn and loose on the post.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Also make sure both the field brush and insulated brush have the tension spring press on an insulating sleeve on the post. The ground brush also uses one, and if it's missing the spring will have a bit less pressure.