Horn Rod

[Lenny Bruce]

Hi guys,so I removed the Horn rod on my ‘30 Tudor. Reason being the horn button/light switch was pulled tight to the wheel causing the lights to go on and off when turning the steering. The Rod is clearly bent. Thing is I have measured it from left to right according to Les Andrews book and 45/3.25 is a bit too short. I keep coming up with 45 and 7/8…. I don’t want to get too short of a Rod but 45-7/8 isn’t an option… Any advice?

[rotorwrench]

Is your steering column a later 1930/31 2-tooth Gemmer type? The early 1930 types up to February of that year were near an inch shorter and very near the length of the 1929 Gemmer 2-tooth design but having the later type lever control quadrant and the larger 1930/31 steering wheel. The longest one is the A-3616-H at 45 31/32" and is the most common for 30/31. This is a 32th over 7/8" but likely the one you will need. If a person is careful and uses some form of mandrels then a bent tube could be straightened.

The 7-tooth Ford design is long but I wonder how the measurements are being taken since the 7 tooth is 45 3/4". Measure from under the light switch ring down to the center of the clip slot for the spider retention just above the tip.

[Lenny Bruce]

I’m challenged with a measure tape. Had some help and the 45-31-32 is the Rod that’s in the car. I’m assuming the previous owner tried removing the rod without lowering the column and bent it. I straightened it out as good as I could but it still has a little snag to it.
I’m going to order a new one to be safe and prevent future headaches.

[Lenny Bruce]

Thanks for your input it’s always appreciated!!

[Bigsnapper43]

The repro rods leave much to be desired!!! We find the origionals are the best way to go. The orig can be rebuilt. Not an easy feat but the chrome doesant peel off in two years. The horseshoe clip fits . Use the FORD parts. Forget the repro pieces.

[Lenny Bruce]

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I will do just that! Thank you

[Bob Bidonde]

This slide might help you:

[wuga]

1931 RPU. Using a different steering wheel, my horn rod would not work. I bought a shorter rod but it was 5/8" too short. I removed the steering column and shortened the shaft by cutting, removing the 5/8" and rewelding. The housing still had room to move down the steering box and everything else worked just fine. A little labor intensive, but not expensive. If the switch is just dragging on the wheel because the rod is bent, get the same rod and then adjust it's seating from the bottom end by moving the switch housing up or down on the steering box.
Are you measuring your horn rod as shown in the diagram above. If you can measure your steering shaft, the horn rod should be almost 2" longer. I think you should be using the 3616H horn rod. It appears to be about 1/16+/- longer than yours and would probably cure the dragging problem.

Part # A-3616-B Model Year 28-29
Part # A-3616-C Model Year 29-29
Part # A-3616-F Model Year 30-30
Part # A-3616-G Model Year 30-30
Part # A-3616-H Model Year 30-31
Complete with the wire contacts, insulators, horn button and escutcheon. The length is measured on the tube part from the top of the tube where the tube goes into the head, down to the keeper groove.

NOTE: A-3616-B is used on the 7-Tooth Columns and A-3616-C is used on the 2-Tooth columns. U.S.A.

Below are shaft measurements , not light switch rod measurement. If your original light rod is missing, measure the steering shaft with a piece of string or wire.

A-3616-B = 44-1/2"
A-3616-C = 43"
A-3616-F = 44-1/2"
A-3616-G = 43"
A-3616-H = 44"

Warren

[Bob from Northport]

All the great information and diagrams you guys are posting are really good. The real problem is that only one company remains that is producing repop horn rods. They are very poorly made, and the measurements a way too long and troublesome. You have to use or find an original rod to use. Talk to Snyders tech guys. They will tell you the same.

[Lenny Bruce]

On the new horn rod their is a round plug that needs to be removed for the horn wire correct?

[rotorwrench]

Is it a protective cover for the terminal contact at the bottom? There is an insulator down there that is part of the assembly so don't remove anything that is part of the assembly if it doesn't need to be removed. Bob's post #7 illustrates what is on that end. I've not purchased a new reproduction yet so I don't know how they look out of the box.

[Lenny Bruce]

Ohhh yes!! I see from the images how things are… My confusion was because the Rod I removed was missing the Terminal contact and the horn wire. Someone was definitely digging around in their which also explains why they wired the horn to a separate button. Thanks everyone for your help!! Always appreciated!!!

[Bob Bidonde]

Contact Steve Becker at Bert's Model "A" Center in Colorado. Steve may have the rod you need. 800-321-1931

[Lenny Bruce]

Thanks Bob! If this rod doesn’t work I will surely make the call

[rotorwrench]

Restoring one with rough chrome on the switch lever-ring might be problematic. Finding one that still has a good finish may be difficult.