Muffler to manifold

[Tom maxwell]

GuysI am struggling to get a good connection between the muffler and the exhaust manifold
. In the past I have tried some of the ideas in the catalogs.
Between Bert's, Snyders, Brattons, and Macs , there are a lot of ideas on how to make this connection leak free.
Before I take this apart one more time, I would like to know what is the best trick.
With just the clamp , I have leaks. The manifold and muffler I believe are in good shape and round
Thanks
Tom

[Mitch//pa]

i always used the little insert pipe between the two. just that and the clamp no putty , cement, or gasket to throw as far as you can, never had a leak. the clamp has 2 sides the larger goes on the manifold ear
and no it does not cause a restriction

[Jerry in Shasta]

Go to a local muffler shop and have them reshape the muffler connection. The bell end of the inlet pipe may not be 45 degrees . Also have them check the angle of the inlet pipe bend. It should be 90 degrees.

I have used muffler repair cement as a sealant at the joint.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

if its an Aries, it should fit unless the manifold is sagging. If its one of the older cheapo repros, the flange is too small and will need to be expanded by a muffler shop and the elbow in the pipe is the wrong angle and will need to be pulled away from the muffler so the flange is aligned with the manifold flange.. The pipe insert works, but it restricts the exhaust as well as the muffler, resulting in reduced horsepower.

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by Tom maxwell

GuysI am struggling to get a good connection between the muffler and the exhaust manifold
. In the past I have tried some of the ideas in the catalogs.
Between Bert's, Snyders, Brattons, and Macs , there are a lot of ideas on how to make this connection leak free.
Before I take this apart one more time, I would like to know what is the best trick.
With just the clamp , I have leaks. The manifold and muffler I believe are in good shape and round
Thanks
Tom

Of these 'tricks', have you bent or checked to make sure the pipe aligns properly with the manifold ? A long 'cheater' pipe in the pipe works for this. As Mitch says, I too like the insert sleeve. But I do 'goober up' the connection with some cement or make a little asbestos gasket.

[Wick]

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After you have the flange tight, Hit the flange on the side a couple of times with a hammer. Then tighten the flange bolts again. (they will be loose) Repeat...Hit flange with hammer and tighten flange again. The clamp is just like a Grayloc pipe clamp and that's the way there installed.

[lindy williams]

Do everything said above plus, be sure you are installing the clamp with the longest side of the clamp down and the shorter side in the up position.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

FLANGE--101!
Minerva's flange & manifold surface was perfect, original, "maleable" clamp "seemed" to fit O.K, NOT using goop or inner pipe, BUT connection didn't seal totally!
THE FIX: Set each half of the clamp on a steel block & whacked it in the top of the arch & felt it "GIVE"! This lets each half contact just in the middle & as you tighten the bolts, each half squeezes in at each end, to form a perfect "circle" seal! She was perfectly SEALED, without "BAND-AIDS!! I also smear a light film of wheel bearing grease on the inside & outside of the connection & inside the clamp surface, so things can slide into correct positions as I tighten the bolts.
(DON'T know if re-pro clamps are maleable enough to do this DE-ARCHING thing?? I've NEVER seen an original clamp BREAK! I once read that BERT'S sells unbreakable, used, original clamps fur ONLY $5.00---Thet's CHEEP!!) Bill W.