Voltage regulator

[Fullraceflathead]

Thanks for your hard work it's nice to have these available again!

[christian]

Very excited for this new regulator. I have had the fun projects regulator for a number of years and have sorely missed it ever since I accidentally shorted it out. Looking forward to being able to try out the new unit!

[ndnchf]

Originally Posted by Jazzmonger

Positive ground version of my 6 & 12v voltage regulators are working as of today! I'm just waiting for 1000 cutout tops to be delivered so I can finish them. These are the samples I just got:



I should have them by early March. At this point I'm completely sold out of voltage regulators with refurbished cutout tops. If you want one now, you have to send me a cutout top first. The whole "send me your core after the sale" thing didn't work out too well.....

Once I get the 1000 cutout tops delivered, I will then have all of the following products for sale:

6v neg ground voltage regulator - Model T
6v positive ground voltage regulator - model A
12v neg ground voltage regulator - Model T
12v positive ground voltage regulator - model A
Negative ground high current (30A) diode cutout (6v & 12v) - Model T
Positive ground high current (30A) diode cutout (6v & 12v) -model A

I'd like to hear more details on your regulator!

Thanks steve

[Jazzmonger]

Originally Posted by ndnchf

I'd like to hear more details on your regulator!

Thanks steve

What do you want to know??? Lots of background info here:

https://modeltstarters.com/voltage-regulators-cutouts/

[ndnchf]

Originally Posted by Jazzmonger

What do you want to know??? Lots of background info here:

https://modeltstarters.com/voltage-regulators-cutouts/

Good info, thanks. How does it does it control field strength? Is the 3rd brush removed and it's field wire routed to the regulator? I didn't see any photos of it mounted on a generator and details of how its connected.

I rebuild model A and flathead V8 generators on the side, so I have interest in the details. It certainly is a great idea. This is an example of one I recently finished.
Thanks., Steve

[Conaway2]

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Originally Posted by Jazzmonger

Positive ground version of my 6 & 12v voltage regulators are working as of today! I'm just waiting for 1000 cutout tops to be delivered so I can finish them. These are the samples I just got:



I should have them by early March. At this point I'm completely sold out of voltage regulators with refurbished cutout tops. If you want one now, you have to send me a cutout top first. The whole "send me your core after the sale" thing didn't work out too well.....

Once I get the 1000 cutout tops delivered, I will then have all of the following products for sale:

6v neg ground voltage regulator - Model T
6v positive ground voltage regulator - model A
12v neg ground voltage regulator - Model T
12v positive ground voltage regulator - model A
Negative ground high current (30A) diode cutout (6v & 12v) - Model T
Positive ground high current (30A) diode cutout (6v & 12v) -model A

Jazzmonger,
Please keep us posted. I’ll be in the market for 2 6V positive ground units.
Thanks - Jim

[Jazzmonger]

Originally Posted by ndnchf

Good info, thanks. How does it does it control field strength? Is the 3rd brush removed and it's field wire routed to the regulator? I didn't see any photos of it mounted on a generator and details of how its connected.

I rebuild model A and flathead V8 generators on the side, so I have interest in the details. It certainly is a great idea. This is an example of one I recently finished.
Thanks., Steve

It's literally a bolt-on replacement for standard Ford cutouts. No other mods necessary...

[ndnchf]

Ok, thanks.

[TomInCologne]

Originally Posted by Jazzmonger

It's literally a bolt-on replacement for standard Ford cutouts. No other mods necessary...

Okay, just out of interest and keep in mind that i am not an electronics engineer...


As i understand it, you have two ways to regulate the voltage if you are not regulating the field strength.


- 'burn off' the surplus electrical energy, as done in voltage regulators like a LM7805 or similar. You need a heatsink for this and as you may have to get rid off 60 or more watts, i don't think this the best way...


- switch the current coming from the generator on-off at a high frequency, (like PWM-controlled) and with this you can regulate the outgoing voltage. To get rid of the 'ripple' in the output current, you put in a condenser. (plus the battery, which is working as a huge condenser)


I am just curious and trying to understand things...

[Bruce of MN]

Do you put the third brush in the maximum position?

[meteorgray]

Adjust the third brush to 14 or 15 amps. That's all you have to do.
I have the fun projects regulator and it works fine.

[Badpuppy]

Originally Posted by TomInCologne

- switch the current coming from the generator on-off at a high frequency, (like PWM-controlled) and with this you can regulate the outgoing voltage. To get rid of the 'ripple' in the output current, you put in a condenser. (plus the battery, which is working as a huge condenser)


I am just curious and trying to understand things...

You describe a series regulator such as used in the internal Wesenberg type, which switches field current to limit output voltage. Regan's external shunt (parallel) regulator pulses excess power to ground using a PWM controller.

As for ripple, the system tolerates the large ignition spikes from the coil, which are easily absorbed by the battery; ripple caused by regulator switching is hardly a problem.

[Jazzmonger]

In fact, my strong recommendation is to set the gen to approx 5A, or 2-3A with the standard (not LED) lights on. These generators were designed for 100watts MAXIMUM, and that's assuming everything is perfect. Run them at more than 50w and you reduce their useful life drastically. My business is also rebuilding Model T generators. I've rebuilt 100's over the years and I have just a bit of experience I can impart in this area:

P=VI (or Power in watts = Volts * Current)
100w=6v* 16.7A - @100% rated output.
50w=6v*8.3A @ 50% rated output.
5A * 6v = 30 watts. Keeps thing nice and cool and long lived! Longer anyway....but, as always, your mileage will vary greatly! 5A is enough to keep a 6v battery in good condition charged in the vast majority of cases.

In practice (not theory) we found drawbacks to using the pwm design, so we took a different approach. The new circuit acts like a switch. When the battery is at 6.2v or below, the switch on the gen terminal is open, letting current flow to the battery. Once the battery voltage reaches 7.2v (100% charge) the switch closes and shorts the generator output to ground, effectively stopping current flow to the battery. The cycle then repeats. One of the biggest complaints about the pwm design from the avg user is it was hard to tell if it's working, esp when the battery was near full. This new design is obvious. Your ammeter is either showing a charge or not. This is especially helpful when driving these old cars because for us old guys, the more time spent watching the road and not interpreting the value on a small gauge, the better it is for everyone...

Jeff

[Bruce of MN]

6V is used in those calcs, I’ve always read that the system runs more at 7.2V or so. Does that affect the maximum amps you want to see?

[Badpuppy]

The ammeter is a battery charge indicator. It doesn't tell you much about the generator except that it's working. 1-2 amps is a good steady charge for a healthy battery, after recovery from the starting discharge.

I would say the best way to adjust the third brush is to run the engine to engage the cutout or diode, ~1200 rpm, and set to 6.8 - 7.0 volts between battery terminals. The regulator of course will prevent output above 7.2V, at perhaps 1300-1500 rpm.

[Jazzmonger]

[6V is used in those calcs, I’ve always read that the system runs more at 7.2V or so. Does that affect the maximum amps you want to see?]

Yes it does! When the battery is fully charged, 7.2 *5A = 36w. Still safe!

I'm happy to post my instructions for setting the 3rd brush here.

Jeff