The Ford Barn

Mr. Will · 11-29-2016, 02:11 PM

I have a tube that has a break at the bottom all the way around so when you try to turn the switch the tube just spins on the horn wire in the center of the tube. I wondered if anyone had a issue like this and what the repair was. I thought about trying to put a couple tack welds trying to keep the heat down so not to damage the horn wire. Any input would be welcome.
Thanks Dan

Terry,OH · 11-29-2016, 04:56 PM

The rod is a fairly tight fit in the hole of the steering column. Suggest you find another rod and horn button. If you were to remove the wire inside the tube and fit a sleeve inside the tube maybe solder it in place after making sure both ends are indexed together properly and then replace the wire. Good Luck

waterboychuck · 11-29-2016, 04:59 PM

I would try welding it if you have the equipment.

Mr. Will · 11-29-2016, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

The rod is a fairly tight fit in the hole of the steering column. Suggest you find another rod and horn button. If you were to remove the wire inside the tube and fit a sleeve inside the tube maybe solder it in place after making sure both ends are indexed together properly and then replace the wire. Good Luck

I thought about silver solder.

Mr. Will · 11-29-2016, 05:17 PM

I have the equipment and the know how, just was concerned about the horn wire.

Bob C · 11-29-2016, 05:52 PM

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Take the wire out.

Bob

Kurt in NJ · 11-29-2016, 07:46 PM

remove the wire,make a sleeve to fit inside, solder it, replace the wire

Mr. Will · 11-29-2016, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob C

Take the wire out.

Bob

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

remove the wire,make a sleeve to fit inside, solder it, replace the wire

Sounds like that is my best bet alright.

Terry,OH · 11-30-2016, 07:28 AM

Unsolder the wire at the light switch end and you can pull it all the way out after removing the horn button and trim. Silver solder sounds good for a repair just make sure the metal is not coated with a plating. The solder will not stick to the plating. When properly repaired, with the lights off and the wheels straight ahead, the tabs on the light switch should be vertical. You did not mention the year or model car.

Mr. Will · 11-30-2016, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

Unsolder the wire at the light switch end and you can pull it all the way out after removing the horn button and trim. Silver solder soulds good for a repair just make sure the metal is not coated with a plating. The solder will not stick to the plating. When properly repaired, with the lights off and the wheels straight ahead, the tabs on the light switch should be vertical. You did not mention the year or model car.

Thanks for the help, car is a 36. I assume the horn wire pulls out from the bottom?

Kube · 11-30-2016, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr. Will

I thought about silver solder.

I have silver soldered in the past with perfect results.

JM 35 Sedan · 11-30-2016, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

remove the wire,make a sleeve to fit inside, solder it, replace the wire

I like this idea best as a possible fix. After this fix make sure the rod is as straight as an arrow.

PS...if repairs fail, I have several extra '35-'36 horn/light switch rods in good condition and would probably let one go.

DavidG · 11-30-2016, 02:20 PM

The horn wire pulls out from the top, hence the need to remove the horn button. The wire is soldered at the very bottom which needs to be melted so that the wire can be pulled out from the top.

Mr. Will · 11-30-2016, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

I like this idea best as a possible fix. After this fix make sure the rod is as straight as an arrow.

PS...if repairs fail, I have several extra '35-'36 horn/light switch rods in good condition and would probably let one go.

John, I sent you a PM.

Mr. Will · 11-30-2016, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidG

The horn wire pulls out from the top, hence the need to remove the horn button. The wire is soldered at the very bottom which needs to be melted so that the wire can be pulled out from the top.

Thanks for the information.

rotorwrench · 11-30-2016, 07:32 PM

That will be difficult to silver braze due to the separation of the two parts of the tube. It will have to be held by a vise or some other clamping arrangement to hold it straight. The clamps can suck the heat up when brazing with silver so it won't be easy. It used to be easy to get the low melt silver alloy brazing rod but not as easy now due to the need for cadmium in the alloy for the lower melting point fillers. It's out there but you'll have to look for it. It would be better to get low melt like something in the range of 1145 or 1175 degrees F so you won't have to get it too hot. Silver fillers can use a lot of different fluxes so that wouldn't be too big a problem to find. The potassium bifluoride flux was good stuff but it's getting like trying to find real lead solder now days since it is nasty stuff. Borax or boric acid will work though as long as it's not too wet & runny.

Mr. Will · 12-02-2016, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

That will be difficult to silver braze due to the separation of the two parts of the tube. It will have to be held by a vise or some other clamping arrangement to hold it straight. The clamps can suck the heat up when brazing with silver so it won't be easy. It used to be easy to get the low melt silver alloy brazing rod but not as easy now due to the need for cadmium in the alloy for the lower melting point fillers. It's out there but you'll have to look for it. It would be better to get low melt like something in the range of 1145 or 1175 degrees F so you won't have to get it too hot. Silver fillers can use a lot of different fluxes so that wouldn't be too big a problem to find. The potassium bifluoride flux was good stuff but it's getting like trying to find real lead solder now days since it is nasty stuff. Borax or boric acid will work though as long as it's not too wet & runny.

I would rather purchase a good one and use this one for parts I think. Waiting to hear back from John, hoping he has a good one.

Lawson Cox · 12-03-2016, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr. Will

I would rather purchase a good one and use this one for parts I think. Waiting to hear back from John, hoping he has a good one.

If John doesn't come through, I think I have an extra one I'll part with.

Mr. Will · 12-04-2016, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

If John doesn't come through, I think I have an extra one I'll part with.

Thank you I appreciate that, will let you know what John comes up with.

11-29-2016, 04:56 PM	#2
Terry,OH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,752	Re: Light Switch/Horn Tube Repair The rod is a fairly tight fit in the hole of the steering column. Suggest you find another rod and horn button. If you were to remove the wire inside the tube and fit a sleeve inside the tube maybe solder it in place after making sure both ends are indexed together properly and then replace the wire. Good Luck

11-29-2016, 04:59 PM	#3
waterboychuck Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Nine Mile Falls,WA Posts: 900	Re: Light Switch/Horn Tube Repair I would try welding it if you have the equipment. __________________ The sign of a good craftsman is how well they cover up their mistakes.

11-29-2016, 05:17 PM	#5
Mr. Will Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: East Fork Satsop Posts: 611	Re: Light Switch/Horn Tube Repair I have the equipment and the know how, just was concerned about the horn wire.

11-29-2016, 05:52 PM	#6
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,757	Re: Light Switch/Horn Tube Repair Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Take the wire out. Bob

11-29-2016, 07:46 PM	#7
Kurt in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: on the Littlefield Posts: 6,159	Re: Light Switch/Horn Tube Repair remove the wire,make a sleeve to fit inside, solder it, replace the wire

11-30-2016, 07:28 AM	#9
Terry,OH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,752	Re: Light Switch/Horn Tube Repair Unsolder the wire at the light switch end and you can pull it all the way out after removing the horn button and trim. Silver solder sounds good for a repair just make sure the metal is not coated with a plating. The solder will not stick to the plating. When properly repaired, with the lights off and the wheels straight ahead, the tabs on the light switch should be vertical. You did not mention the year or model car. Last edited by Terry,OH; 12-01-2016 at 09:09 AM.

11-30-2016, 02:20 PM	#13
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,103	Re: Light Switch/Horn Tube Repair The horn wire pulls out from the top, hence the need to remove the horn button. The wire is soldered at the very bottom which needs to be melted so that the wire can be pulled out from the top.

11-30-2016, 07:32 PM	#16
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,440	Re: Light Switch/Horn Tube Repair That will be difficult to silver braze due to the separation of the two parts of the tube. It will have to be held by a vise or some other clamping arrangement to hold it straight. The clamps can suck the heat up when brazing with silver so it won't be easy. It used to be easy to get the low melt silver alloy brazing rod but not as easy now due to the need for cadmium in the alloy for the lower melting point fillers. It's out there but you'll have to look for it. It would be better to get low melt like something in the range of 1145 or 1175 degrees F so you won't have to get it too hot. Silver fillers can use a lot of different fluxes so that wouldn't be too big a problem to find. The potassium bifluoride flux was good stuff but it's getting like trying to find real lead solder now days since it is nasty stuff. Borax or boric acid will work though as long as it's not too wet & runny.