Distributor Disassemble

[Blue Futura]

I want to thank ' Scicala ' and ' Paul2748' for their help on identifying my distributor . Now I could use a little more help . I want to remove the cover plate the points and condenser are mounted on so I can check the springs under it . But I do not see any fasteners holding it down that I can remove to get it out . A 63 one I have I just remove the fasteners and lift it out . What am I not seeing ? Help would probably keep me from breaking something . Thanks guys . JIM

[paul2748]

There are two or three clips around the inside wall of the distributor. They come out (screwed to the distributor wall. After that, it should come out if I remember correctly.. However, in the few that I have taken apart, the plate does not come out easily. I don't remember how I id it,

Originally Posted by Blue Futura

I want to thank ' Scicala ' and ' Paul2748' for their help on identifying my distributor . Now I could use a little more help . I want to remove the cover plate the points and condenser are mounted on so I can check the springs under it . But I do not see any fasteners holding it down that I can remove to get it out . A 63 one I have I just remove the fasteners and lift it out . What am I not seeing ? Help would probably keep me from breaking something . Thanks guys . JIM

[KULTULZ]

That DIST is an early (1957-59) SGL BREAKER PLATE design.

See if this ILL shows large enough to help -

Nope ...

Maybe you can increase the size on your printer?

BTW - I had the same car (and color) with the SPRINT TRIM-OUT (260-4/S). Put 1968 MUST-TORINO styled steel wheels on it. Loved that thing ...

[dmsfrr]

Does it look like this style distributor? There are 2 screws with small L shaped tabs that hold the round points plate in place... yellow circles.
Along with the flat arm from the vacuum canister and the primary connection bolt / wire from the ignition coil being in the way of removal.

Possibly due to some corrosion from the dissimilar metals (steel & aluminum) they do tend to stick in place. A bit of penetrating oil around the outside edge may be helpful.

Fyi, in the first photo the ground wire for the points is missing, but shown in the second photo.

[Blue Futura]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

Does it look like this style distributor? There are 2 screws with small L shaped tabs that hold the round points plate in place... yellow circles.
Along with the flat arm from the vacuum canister and the primary connection bolt / wire from the ignition coil being in the way of removal.

Possibly due to some corrosion from the dissimilar metals (steel & aluminum) they do tend to stick in place. A bit of penetrating oil around the outside edge may be helpful.

Fyi, in the first photo the ground wire for the points is missing, but shown in the second photo.

-----That is what it looks like and I am using some penetrating oil around it . How does the vacuum advance work if that plate won't move it's pined to ? It sure looks different than the later years are .

[KULTULZ]

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The breaker plate rotates on ball bearings. If the balls are frozen or out of round, you will need to find a new breaker plate.

[paul2748]

Mid year 1959 the design of the inside of the distributors changed so nothing interchanges (at least on top of the plate). If the plate does not turn then it's really stuck. Usually the plate still turns but is a bear to lift out.

Originally Posted by Blue Futura

-----That is what it looks like and I am using some penetrating oil around it . How does the vacuum advance work if that plate won't move it's pined to ? It sure looks different than the later years are .

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Blue Futura

-----That is what it looks like and I am using some penetrating oil around it . How does the vacuum advance work if that plate won't move it's pined to ? It sure looks different than the later years are .

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

The breaker plate rotates on ball bearings. If the balls are frozen or out of round, you will need to find a new breaker plate.

Yes, the outer ring underneath the plate is held in place by the two screws & their small L brackets.
The upper inner main portion of the plate should rotate freely on the small ball bearings just under its outer edge. In this second photo notice the clearance notches in the outer edge where the hold-down screws & brackets are located.

Edit: a third photo of a slightly different (oem?) style points plate, showing the very outer edge under the "L" brackets is separate from the inner portion that rotates.
.

[Gene F]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

Does it look like this style distributor? There are 2 screws with small L shaped tabs that hold the round points plate in place... yellow circles.
Along with the flat arm from the vacuum canister and the primary connection bolt / wire from the ignition coil being in the way of removal.

Possibly due to some corrosion from the dissimilar metals (steel & aluminum) they do tend to stick in place. A bit of penetrating oil around the outside edge may be helpful.

Fyi, in the first photo the ground wire for the points is missing, but shown in the second photo.

So to swap out the vac advance unit I; 1) remove the 2 screws just outside the housing, 2) remove the C-clip inside the dist that connects the unit to the breaker plate?

I think I have that same dist in my 57 Skyliner, and the vac advance seems to be not working right.

[Blue Futura]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

Yes, the outer ring underneath the plate is held in place by the two screws & their small L brackets.
The upper inner main portion of the plate should rotate freely on the small ball bearings just under its outer edge. In this second photo notice the clearance notches in the outer edge where the hold-down screws & brackets are located.

Edit: a third photo of a slightly different (oem?) style points plate, showing the very outer edge under the "L" brackets is separate from the inner portion that rotates.
.

Can those plates bearings and all be bought new ? If so where can I get them , NAPA , Ford parts stores ect, ? I'm sure the ones I have will be junk buy the time I get them out .

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Blue Futura

Can those plates bearings and all be bought new ? If so where can I get them , NAPA , Ford parts stores ect, ? I'm sure the ones I have will be junk buy the time I get them out .

B7A 12151-A is the FORD PN. Usually found NOS on FleaPay. I have seen STANDARD IGNTION on there also.

BTW - If the balls are out of round ... ..., it is usually caused by a poor ground DIST to GRD. Try an outside ground strap DIST HSG to GRD in addition.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Gene F

So to swap out the vac advance unit I; 1) remove the 2 screws just outside the housing, 2) remove the C-clip inside the dist that connects the unit to the breaker plate?

I think I have that same dist in my 57 Skyliner, and the vac advance seems to be not working right.

Correct. That style DIST was used 1957-59 with the dual advance plates style coming in on the

CORRECTION - 1959 model run.

The vacuum advance canister is different between the two styles of distributors.

Use a vacuum pump (or mouth) to see if the canister holds vacuum and/or moves the plate. Your breaker plate may be frozen also.

[Gene F]

Thanks Kultulz. I am pretty sure it hangs up. I have a vac pump (gun) and timing light (the dial type), so maybe I will check for binding, or corrosion before I order a new one from Concourse. But then again, if I have an order together maybe it makes sense just to swap it. I have a project in the garage now I'm trying to wrap up.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Gene F

I am pretty sure it hangs up. I have a vac pump (gun) and timing light (the dial type), so maybe I will check for binding, or corrosion before I order a new one from Concourse. But then again, if I have an order together maybe it makes sense just to swap it. I have a project in the garage now I'm trying to wrap up.

I think I have that same dist in my 57 Skyliner...

Is the RETRACTABLE a dedicated restoration? However you decide to go, keep that DIST ($$$) ...

It might make sense to source a NOS breaker plate and vacuum advance if a keeper.

[Gene F]

KULTILZ I am leaning towards putting a Accell electronic ignition module system (conversion) in the distributor, and a matching coil mounted vertically.

The car is pretty well done except they are never really 100% done if you like to drive them. I bet you know what I mean. I drive it probably about 500 miles per year.

[miker98038]

That’s really sweet. Nicely done.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Gene F

KULTILZ I am leaning towards putting a Accell electronic ignition module system (conversion) in the distributor, and a matching coil mounted vertically.

Maybe read and consider a PERTONIX II setup-

https://pertronixbrands.com/collections/ignition

https://www.helmarparts.ca/v/vspfile...20Products.pdf

In today's world if I had a classic, I would be afraid to take it out.

- BEAUTIFUL EYE CANDY -

With a GEL FILLED COIL you can keep the same coil mounting.

Did the car come through with a 292 2V?

Is that an OFFY 3X2 INTAKE?

It's begging for a set of BIRD ROCKER COVERS ...

[KULTULZ]

- DISTRIBUTOR RESTORATION INFO -

https://4secondsflat.com/Y-Block%20Distributors.htm

They can do a complete restoration (incl) vacuum advance canister.

If you want a numbers matching, I would think you would send in yours to be worked instead of using as a core exchange.

I don't see the use of PERTRONIX III on a street car but maybe will do a PERTRONIX II on request.

[Gene F]

I have not always heard good things about their stuff Kultulz

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Gene F

I have not always heard good things about their stuff Kultulz

You are referring to PERTRONIX?

I think you will find that most of the problem(s) were a buyer choosing an incorrect system for their application (especially PERTRONIX I), installing incorrectly or PERTRONIX having difficulty with explaining their stuff and how it should be fitted (instructions).

And I am not sure they have an application for the one piece breaker plate. One would have to rattle their cage.

[KULTULZ]

- VACUUM ADVANCE CANISTER STYLES - 57-59

- 1957/1959 SGL BREAKER PLATE - B7A 12370-A -



- 1959/ DUAL BREAKER PLATE STYLE B9AF 12370-A -

There were other changes (advance plates) 1960/ so you will need the DIST ID NO to ascertain which canister will be correct for the application.

EDIT -

- Application Date(s) Corrected -

Give Me Forty Acres And I'll Turn This Rig Around ...

[paul2748]

distributor changes were made mid 1959.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by paul2748

distributor changes were made mid 1959.

CORRECT!

My misinformation ...

[KULTULZ]

How does the vacuum advance work if that plate won't move it's pined to ?

It doesn't. Whether the one piece or two pieced breaker plate assy is frozen or the vacuum advance canister diaphram is bad, there will be no vacuum advance.

Usually there will be a tip-in hesitation as with a bad/mis-adjusted carb accelerator pump.

[Gene F]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Maybe read and consider a PERTONIX II setup-

https://pertronixbrands.com/collections/ignition

https://www.helmarparts.ca/v/vspfile...20Products.pdf

In today's world if I had a classic, I would be afraid to take it out.

- BEAUTIFUL EYE CANDY -

With a GEL FILLED COIL you can keep the same coil mounting.

Did the car come through with a 292 2V?

Is that an OFFY 3X2 INTAKE?

It's begging for a set of BIRD ROCKER COVERS ...

Yes Yes I have a device currently that tracks the vehicle location.