Early 1946 Ford 5W Coupe Start

[Conrad Rossi]

Hello, I'm working on replacing the water pumps. What's the best way to remove the broken bolt that goes inside the water jacket? The engine is still in the car. I'm thinking of applying cycles of heating, applying wax, penetrating fluid and using a drill-in stud extractor. Thanks.

[Conrad Rossi]

Hello,

Long time since I posted last time. Below is an update so you don't think I abandoned this thread.

Update on the "abominable" water pump fifth bolt:

The right waterpump bolt pump put a heck of a fight to come out. Probably being my very first sized one made it much harder for me to get it out. Two extractors broke adding to the task. I tried heat, welding a nut (more than one), until I could drill out the broken bolt and run a tap.

Welding a nut allowed me to remove a piece of broken extractor #1. The bolt was sized for good and kept breaking in pieces most likely due to the welding heat not being enough the break the rust. What did the trick was using a carbide drill bit. I reinstalled the water pump and used the water jacket orifice as a guide to drill through the bolt. That took care a piece of extractor #2 left in the broken bolt and the bolt itself. Then, I removed the water pump and run a tap to rethread the hole.

I decided to put the left water pump removal on-hold as it apears to be in a good condition to run the engine enough to assess its overal health. I learned a lot on the process and can say I got it out without damaging anything. It did take a many weekends as I couldn't work continuously on it. Probably a good thing because it tested my patience.

Here some pictures:

Cheers,

-Conrad

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Conrad Rossi

Hello,

Here are some pictures:

[tubman]

"Ezy-Outs" are not easy and seldom get anything out. But you already know that.

[Conrad Rossi]

Thanks, Tubman.

Indeed, I learned a lot. For the right water pump replacement, if it fights me and breaks, I'll cut it flush with block. Then, install the water pump and use th orifice as a guide to drill it out. Having the engine in the car limits your choices.

[Conrad Rossi]

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Thanks, Tubman.

Indeed, I learned a lot. For the right water pump replacement, if it fights me and breaks, I'll cut it flush with block. Then, install the water pump and use th orifice as a guide to drill it out. Having the engine in the car limits your choices.

[Ggmac]

Glad you got it ! They are trouble .

[Conrad Rossi]

Hello --

Catching-up with the updates...

Now with the water pump reinstalled, I replaced the front motor mounts. They were totally gone. They looked like baked goods. New vs. old:



Here's the rest of the motor mount including the buttom bushing:



Crusty engine with new motor mounts and spin-free water pumps. The goal is to assess the overall condition of the engine. If runs decently, it will get new rebuilt water pumps. I have a pair of Skipp Haney waiting on the shelf.

[19Fordy]

You might want to consider replacing the bolts inside the water pump with stainless steel bolts or bronze bolts. I did, many years ago with lots of anti seize. Don't overtighten them.
https://fairwindfasteners.com/collec...42166415229140
and
https://www.bing.com/images/search?v...t=0&ajaxserp=0
and some stainless info:
https://www.anzor.com.au/technical/s...eel-fasteners1

[Conrad Rossi]

Hello 19Fordy - Thanks for the peer check. I had to double check. Yes, they're stainless steel and with anti-size. Also, I made sure they're to factory length and not overtighten.