Head recommendation for a 59A

[hb32]

Putting together a 59A motor and looking at new Edelbrock heads but they come in 2 versions, 65 and 74 cc.
Specs as follows ; bored to 3 5/16", L 100 cam, 4" crank, Manley 1.5 valves, dual 97`s and Ross forged pistons. Fully balanced as well.
What size heads would work the best ?

[HP Hunter]

Large chambers with most bigger engines.

Harry

[JSeery]

It really depends on what compression ratio you want to end up with.

[hb32]

I am new to this game so still learning.
Engine is going in a 32 pickup, early 40`s 3 speed and not going to be running it down a quarter mile.

[42merc]

You need all the compression you can get.
Use the 65cc heads. The 74cc heads are for blown motors.

[ford38v8]

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Originally Posted by hb32

I am new to this game so still learning.
Engine is going in a 32 pickup, early 40`s 3 speed and not going to be running it down a quarter mile.

3 on the tree?

[hb32]

No floor shift.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by hb32

Putting together a 59A motor and looking at new Edelbrock heads but they come in 2 versions, 65 and 74 cc.
Specs as follows ; bored to 3 5/16", L 100 cam, 4" crank, Manley 1.5 valves, dual 97`s and Ross forged pistons. Fully balanced as well.
What size heads would work the best ?

I built nearly the identical engine in 2006 except for a 4-1/8" stroke and Offenhauser 425 finned aluminium heads. I had to fly cut the valve pocket area in the heads for proper valve clearance using 1.5" valves and L100 cam from Dave Generous @ Cam Techniques. I cc'd the combustion chambers as Ol' Ron suggested, and found it necessary to remove a slight amount of material in some chambers to get all of them at 68 cc's. Not being familiar with Edelbrock heads, what is the valve lift specification for their two versions you mention?

[Ol' Ron]

have used these heads allot. They are CNC milled and have enough clearance for any flat tappet cam . For 276 Ci the 64 cchead works out to be 8.5 on an unrelived block and runs well when properly tuned in87 gas. we use the 74 cc head on the 294 ci engine and it gives a little over 8 cr. Now to get the best results with any head, measure the piston to cilinder head clearance. we had to mill.015 off one head and .020 off the other to get this. You may think this is abit fussy but why spent 5 grand on an engine build and not get the most out of it.

[hb32]

Lots of research and ended up pulling the trigger on the 65cc version.
Next question is studs mostly length.
Are the stock studs that Roy Nacewicz offer, the proper length for the Edelbrock heads?
I also read lots on the rolled threads in the block and builder is aware as well.

[2935ford]

I used 221 heads on my 59A motor.
They work really well. I traded for a complete 221 motor.

[Tony, NY]

I used the stud set Speedway sells with Edelbrock heads.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flathe...-Kit,1785.html

[scooder]

Originally Posted by 2935ford

I used 221 heads on my 59A motor.
They work really well. I traded for a complete 221 motor.

I've cc'd a bunch of heads, and checked with Ford's chamber sizes. The normal 221 heads (81A type) have a larger chamber than the 59AB head. 80 V's 76cc. With these heads, 59AB will give you higher compression ratio.
Martin.

[scooder]

Originally Posted by hb32

Lots of research and ended up pulling the trigger on the 65cc version.
Next question is studs mostly length.
Are the stock studs that Roy Nacewicz offer, the proper length for the Edelbrock heads?
I also read lots on the rolled threads in the block and builder is aware as well.

You made the right choice.
Martin.

[Bored&Stroked]

You made the right choice with the 65CC heads. Also, you cannot use stock length studs on all of the locations - as the 59AB style Edelbrock heads need longer studs on the bottom row as well as the two studs above that row. I'd order a stud kit that is designed for your heads. You can probably go to Speedway, or talk to Red's Headers.

In my case, I always use ARP studs - Red's Headers has you covered on a correct 'set' for your heads. One reason I like ARP is that they roll their threads, they don't stretch and they hold torque a lot better than a lot of the aftermarket kits (which are typically Grade 8 - at best . . . and I'd argue that from what I've seen!).

[Ol' Ron]

Nobody I know makes studs for the flathead. Flathead studs have only 8-10 coarse threads, and are seated to prevent water leaks. Often wondered why nobody makes them, not enough flathead builders I guess. I uz bolts. Also there are 3 blind holes on each side, don't bottom out.

[russcc]

To 2nd what Ron said, read Vern Tardel & Mike Bishops new book on building flathead engines. Vern uses cap screws, (8ba type bolts).

[Dennis Jarrell]

So I'll ask the question, if no one makes flathead studs, what are the ones that are currently being sold?

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[Lawrie]

Why not use ARP studs, just work out the length .
Lawrie

[Capn John]

http://arp-bolts.com/kits/Make.php?_...&_EngModelID=*

See the above ARP site for studs