The Ford Barn

lucky_stripe_garage · 05-08-2018, 12:06 PM

So it’s been a little bit since I’ve put an update on here. I finally figured out why my battery would always be drained after sitting for a couple of days. There was no insulators on the instrument cluster wiring harness so it was shorting our constantly. I got that fixed, just need to get a new ammeter to replace the burned up repop.

I also found a Sparton horn to replace my 6v JC Whitney horn that the previous owner had purchased.

Model: AF. No51931. 6v

Getting this cleaned up for use and trying to get the horn rod wiring replaced led to my next trouble spot. My horn rod/light switch broke.

It’s always been really tight and even with the copper bushing you can get from the suppliers, it would always change positions when turning corners. While it was out I noticed it had been rigged together at some point.

I measured it at 45-3/4”. I have the Gemmer steering box on my car. Should I have the 45-31/32” horn rod and that’s why it’s always been too tight?

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Badpuppy · 05-09-2018, 03:19 PM

Snyder's has a pretty good way to tell - https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/light-switch-rod

Probably snapped off because of fatigue caused by the snaky repair job.

michael a · 05-09-2018, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Badpuppy

Snyder's has a pretty good way to tell - https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/light-switch-rod

Probably snapped off because of fatigue caused by the snaky repair job.

What a great read keep us informed even though we've never met I think of you as a friend

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lucky_stripe_garage · 06-25-2018, 11:51 PM

Hopefully this will work. I took a couple of short videos of the (what I believe) JC Whitney 6v horn and one of the Sparton Horn after I got the motor cleaned and lubricated. The difference is unbelievable.

https://youtu.be/vf_WLqznQ6A

https://youtu.be/OZjTHQazfNQ

I recently switched jobs so I’m not out in the garage as often, but still trying to fix things as I can.

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lucky_stripe_garage · 06-25-2018, 11:53 PM

I took her to a small local show this weekend and won a beat in class. I think I got a young guy hooked on the model a bug. He was looking them up as we were talking. After the show I even took him and his family for a short drive.

I also got my luggage rack installed and added the passenger side taillight. I was insanely nervous about drilling that first hole, measured about 50 times, then had my dad double and triple check everything before drilling. But I think it came out ok.

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Bmoody · 05-27-2020, 03:18 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I an 65 & have had my 29 since I was 14. Unless the old part is Busted in half....Keep it. I cant tell you how many times ive robbed an old part to make something work, Most times the old parts are far superior to new ones.

05-08-2018, 12:06 PM	#161
lucky_stripe_garage Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Texas Posts: 123	My 1930 Model A So it’s been a little bit since I’ve put an update on here. I finally figured out why my battery would always be drained after sitting for a couple of days. There was no insulators on the instrument cluster wiring harness so it was shorting our constantly. I got that fixed, just need to get a new ammeter to replace the burned up repop. I also found a Sparton horn to replace my 6v JC Whitney horn that the previous owner had purchased. Model: AF. No51931. 6v Getting this cleaned up for use and trying to get the horn rod wiring replaced led to my next trouble spot. My horn rod/light switch broke. It’s always been really tight and even with the copper bushing you can get from the suppliers, it would always change positions when turning corners. While it was out I noticed it had been rigged together at some point. I measured it at 45-3/4”. I have the Gemmer steering box on my car. Should I have the 45-31/32” horn rod and that’s why it’s always been too tight? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

05-09-2018, 03:19 PM	#162
Badpuppy Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Guthrie, OK Posts: 1,247	Re: My 1930 Model A Snyder's has a pretty good way to tell - https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/light-switch-rod Probably snapped off because of fatigue caused by the snaky repair job.

06-25-2018, 11:51 PM	#164
lucky_stripe_garage Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Texas Posts: 123	Re: My 1930 Model A Hopefully this will work. I took a couple of short videos of the (what I believe) JC Whitney 6v horn and one of the Sparton Horn after I got the motor cleaned and lubricated. The difference is unbelievable. https://youtu.be/vf_WLqznQ6A https://youtu.be/OZjTHQazfNQ I recently switched jobs so I’m not out in the garage as often, but still trying to fix things as I can. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

06-25-2018, 11:53 PM	#165
lucky_stripe_garage Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Texas Posts: 123	My 1930 Model A I took her to a small local show this weekend and won a beat in class. I think I got a young guy hooked on the model a bug. He was looking them up as we were talking. After the show I even took him and his family for a short drive. I also got my luggage rack installed and added the passenger side taillight. I was insanely nervous about drilling that first hole, measured about 50 times, then had my dad double and triple check everything before drilling. But I think it came out ok. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

05-27-2020, 03:18 PM	#166
Bmoody Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2020 Posts: 15	Re: My 1930 Model A Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I an 65 & have had my 29 since I was 14. Unless the old part is Busted in half....Keep it. I cant tell you how many times ive robbed an old part to make something work, Most times the old parts are far superior to new ones.