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Old 09-09-2017, 06:33 PM   #1
Jeff/Illinois
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Default Re: 1936 Truck restoration

1stford looking good!!!!! Nice job!!!!
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Old 09-09-2017, 11:56 PM   #2
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Default Re: 1936 Truck restoration

Yeah I had a bunch of pictures on photo bucket and they want to charge me to have them up. I'm going to try and go back and post the pictures that are missing. I was able to get almost all of the interior finished, hope to finish it tomorrow. Also got the horn finished and put on.
I'm not sure why the pictures are sideways but if you click on them they appear to be correct.
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File Type: jpg greentruck1.jpg (90.1 KB, 179 views)
File Type: jpg greentruck3.jpg (49.8 KB, 168 views)
File Type: jpg greentruck2.jpg (91.2 KB, 169 views)
File Type: jpg greentruck4.jpg (57.5 KB, 160 views)
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Old 09-12-2017, 08:29 PM   #3
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Default Re: 1936 Truck restoration

Wowee absolutely beautiful!
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Old 09-13-2017, 12:20 PM   #4
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Could I get a couple ideas as to why the light switch would be hard to turn? I installed it and when the light switch is not on it turns smooth. When I put that on it turns easily for a few times and then gets where it won't go.

Also, is the correct way 1 to right and 2 clicks to the left?
Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-15-2017, 10:28 PM   #5
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I'm getting to the end and one of my last things is an exhaust system. I have no parts but want a factory look I'm hoping for recommendations based on experience. Couple thoughts I've had I'd buy a muffler from Roy Nacewitz and have exhaust shop build The rest. Or I've seen a kit from Waldron exhaust that looks nice. Any ideas?

Thanks.
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Old 09-15-2017, 11:20 PM   #6
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Default Re: 1936 Truck restoration

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I'm getting to the end and one of my last things is an exhaust system. I have no parts but want a factory look I'm hoping for recommendations based on experience. Couple thoughts I've had I'd buy a muffler from Roy Nacewitz and have exhaust shop build The rest. Or I've seen a kit from Waldron exhaust that looks nice. Any ideas?

Thanks.
Wiring for these old girls is primitive. All you have is head/brake/tail lights, charging, and ignition switch. Later wiring harness should work just fine. If you can read a wiring diagram you should be OK. How about mounting the voltage regulator under the dash out of sight?

I like the paint job! Just sold a 28 pu painted dark green. Ignore the originality pubahs telling you the running boards aren't correct and should be black. If you like them body color keep em like that.

I've bought two stainless exhaust systems from Waldron. The 36 woodie one fit pretty good although they had to make a 2nd crossover pipe for me as a muffler shop had to add 2 inches to get it to fit. Charged just for materials. The 41 woodie stainless exhaust required me modifying every piece to get it to fit. I cut and tacked and had a friend tig with stainless. If you know the exhaust shop is very good with antique cars that sounds like a deal to me or if you are going with dual exhaust.

Your light switch should be one to the left for parking lights and one to the right for headlights if I remember from my 36 correctly. Do you have an original light switch, the bulb looking thingy at the end of the steering column? The repop ones are crap and should be avoided. Only other problem with light switch could be bent light switch rod.
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Last edited by mrtexas; 09-15-2017 at 11:36 PM.
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Old 09-16-2017, 06:35 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by mrtexas View Post
Wiring for these old girls is primitive. All you have is head/brake/tail lights, charging, and ignition switch. Later wiring harness should work just fine. If you can read a wiring diagram you should be OK. How about mounting the voltage regulator under the dash out of sight?

I like the paint job! Just sold a 28 pu painted dark green. Ignore the originality pubahs telling you the running boards aren't correct and should be black. If you like them body color keep em like that.

I've bought two stainless exhaust systems from Waldron. The 36 woodie one fit pretty good although they had to make a 2nd crossover pipe for me as a muffler shop had to add 2 inches to get it to fit. Charged just for materials. The 41 woodie stainless exhaust required me modifying every piece to get it to fit. I cut and tacked and had a friend tig with stainless. If you know the exhaust shop is very good with antique cars that sounds like a deal to me or if you are going with dual exhaust.

Your light switch should be one to the left for parking lights and one to the right for headlights if I remember from my 36 correctly. Do you have an original light switch, the bulb looking thingy at the end of the steering column? The repop ones are crap and should be avoided. Only other problem with light switch could be bent light switch rod.
Thanks for the feedback.
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Old 09-20-2017, 06:49 PM   #8
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Would anyone mind to post a picture of the glove box Spring installed for a 36 truck?

Thanks.
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Old 09-20-2017, 08:18 PM   #9
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Looking good.
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Old 09-20-2017, 09:21 PM   #10
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Default Re: 1936 Truck restoration

36 passenger glove box photos here

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...4971&showall=1
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Old 09-22-2017, 12:52 PM   #11
Don Rogers
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There is no spring on a 36 glove box door. It's held closed by a clip.
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Old 09-22-2017, 11:30 AM   #12
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I thought I'd post some pictures of my progress. I now have electricity rolling so its about ready to be started.
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File Type: jpg Greenford2.jpg (8.4 KB, 120 views)
File Type: jpg Greenford3.jpg (57.5 KB, 129 views)
File Type: jpg Greenford6.jpg (62.2 KB, 113 views)
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Old 09-22-2017, 01:48 PM   #13
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Here's a photo
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Old 09-22-2017, 03:43 PM   #14
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Thanks Don. Had a sandwich bag labeled "glove box spring" and thought it went there.
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Old 09-22-2017, 06:19 PM   #15
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Default Re: 1936 Truck restoration

That green just really looks great on that truck. Are you going with WWW's?
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Old 09-22-2017, 09:12 PM   #16
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That green just really looks great on that truck. Are you going with WWW's?
I do not know what that means?
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Old 09-22-2017, 09:58 PM   #17
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I do not know what that means?
Wide White Walls
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Old 09-23-2017, 12:08 AM   #18
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Default Re: 1936 Truck restoration

They are 6.50
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Old 09-23-2017, 08:46 AM   #19
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We're running 6.50/16's on our '36 PU I like them.

Have a 6.00/16 for a spare tire the 6.50 would be a tighter fit there.
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Old 09-23-2017, 02:32 PM   #20
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We're running 6.50/16's on our '36 PU I like them.

Have a 6.00/16 for a spare tire the 6.50 would be a tighter fit there.
Had to use an old 6.00 because the new 6.50 was a no go.
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