01-04-2015, 11:39 AM | #101 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
I think the biggest problem here is the definition of a rebuilt engine. When rebuilding an engine you can make some modifications that will improve reliability, power and economy. With out spending any more money than a stock rebuild.
Unfortunately, a "Souped up engine" lands in a different class and depending on your pocket book can be quit expensive. But after spending all that money the power output will still be less than a hot rice burner. "Aesthetics" cost money, even on the inside of the engine, Like. Aperson asks "can I use solid adjustable lifters?" Why not? they work just as well as the lighr weight ones, in a stock or mild rebuilt. Garry want's to use Bronze guides. Nice do they work" Yes. are they the best you cna use in you engine? Yes. But knurelled stock guides work very well too at less than half the cost. Then we go to pistons. Forged or cast. Racing, I'd use forged. for street I'd use cast. Balancing, again, it depends on the rotating assy if you have all the original stock parts and only change pistons, not necessary. The vast majority of rebuilt engines never get re- balanced. This could go on, but I just want youse guys to think about tje application of your engine before you plunk down the$$$$$$. The hourly rat of these shops have gone up to the point that if we don't come up with a reasonable rebuilt engine the Flatheat head will go the way of the Gooney bird. |
01-04-2015, 05:34 PM | #102 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
Totally agree Ron
I'm just trying to do a stock rebuild for this one. From what I am finding out it looks like to use adjustable lifters a lot of people drill the holes in the lifter bores to ease valve adjustment. As of now I am thinking of getting the lifters from reds headers http://reds-headers.net/index.php?ma...&products_id=4 I am wondering about cleaning up the valves I have a sand blasting cabinet and have some new glass media that is 40-80 grit material does any one know if this size grit will be ok? |
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01-05-2015, 12:09 AM | #103 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
Yes, by all means, drill the adjustment holes. Buy a 3/16 long drill at a hardwarre store to make the job easier. Drill the hole just above the oil tube. Make sure you knock the bore off the inside of the lifter boe. I use a wheel cyl hone. Also for those using a hi lift cam, grind of about an 1/8" off the top of the lifter bore, so the wrench will fit..
All this does is to make sure you do more than one flathead |
01-06-2015, 08:41 PM | #104 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
What is the reason/ theory with the different styles of adjustable valve lifters. Why the adjustable hollow lifters and the solid adjustable?
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01-06-2015, 09:04 PM | #105 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
The solids are generally cheaper.
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01-06-2015, 10:54 PM | #106 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
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01-08-2015, 07:48 PM | #107 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
Thank you that clears things up for me.
I haven't cleaned up the valves yet and wondering what some of you do to clean yours? But also wanted to know if I can't reuse the valve seats and have to install new ones can I reuse the old valves? |
01-08-2015, 08:08 PM | #108 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
What I do to clean valves that might be reusable is scrape them as clean as possible with a safety razor blade then spray with oven cleaner, let sit for a day and scrub with a wire brush. Repeat. Oven cleaner works on seats too. A few years ago I used carbon tetrachloride but The EPA decided I was a threat to myself and all creatures on earth.
Lonnie |
01-08-2015, 10:34 PM | #109 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
If the seats are good why change them? same with the valves. Make sure they are not to thin after they have been refaced. Take the sharp edges off then and the seats after they're finished.
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01-09-2015, 08:59 AM | #110 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
I've always just cleaned up valves on a wire wheel. Takes a little time, but it works well and is cheap.
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01-10-2015, 04:42 PM | #111 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
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01-10-2015, 04:47 PM | #112 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
Does anyone have a source for knurled guides, or is it something any reasonably equipped local machine shop can do? (I'm building stock or close to it.)
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01-10-2015, 06:04 PM | #113 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
Tubman, start a new thread asking about guide knurling so Macdozer's thread doesn't go off-track. I have an idea on the subject.
Lonnie |
01-11-2015, 02:14 PM | #114 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
While I was pricing out parts it seemed like Reds headers had decent prices.
With every thing, adjustable lifters,valve guides, springs and other hard ware it was about $350. But I see reds also sells some valve changeover kits that includes new valves. For around 260 or $285 with the Lincoln springs. http://reds-headers.net/index.php?ma...roducts_id=307 http://reds-headers.net/index.php?ma...roducts_id=310 I'm Curious what some thoughts on going this route might be and if anyone here has used these kits before. |
01-11-2015, 03:38 PM | #115 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
Reds are what I used.
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01-11-2015, 07:42 PM | #116 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
It seems like the kit might be the way to go, even though I would like to use the old valves I'm trying to do what is cost effective and will also be reliable for many thousands of miles.
What is the difference between the stock valve springs and the Lincoln Zephyr valve springs ? |
01-12-2015, 08:27 AM | #117 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
The decision to use or not use old bearings comes down to the condition of the bearings, the condition of the journals on the crank and the associated clearances.
If you're very familiar with looking at bearings, using micrometers and such - then you can check things out and make some decisions. Make sure you keep all bearings in order - so you know exactly where they came from. What I've found that in many cases the bearings had some 'crap' go through them - maybe even during the disassembly process (rust, etc) - and they get score marks in them as a result (especially the mains). I always replace them - but that is just me and the bearings in my case are a small part of my overall expense. If you're trying to be conservative on price, no reason you can't check them all out (along with the crank/rods) and see if they can be reused. Take some good quality close-up photos of the bearings and journals - I'm sure there will be many opinions on here to help you make your decisions! Good luck, B&S |
01-12-2015, 08:36 AM | #118 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
Valves: As I noticed you already had the late valves (non-mushroom stems), you may be able to reuse them. Clean them all up with a wire brush to get all the carbon/crap off them.
I would then put them in a lathe and check for straightness, then mic the stems and see what condition they are in and also see that they haven't been reground too many times - having no margin left for a regrind. If the valves look good, then I would polish the stems in the lathe while I was at it. I use some super-fine sandpaper that has already been used on something else - like 600 wet or dry. Springs: I'd probably pickup a set of springs no mater what - as your engine sat for a long time, had water in it (rust), etc.. The Zephyr springs just have a bit more strength (pressure on the seats) than stock springs. Typically they have about 55 lbs on the seat (at installed height). Guides: If your guides are good, you can reuse them - might be a good idea to send them to GOSFAST and have him put the bronze liners and seals on them - not a bad idea. |
01-25-2015, 12:17 PM | #119 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
Thanks bored&stroked
I will have to buy new valve guilds a few of them broke on the way out. After getting the engine cleaned up it has been bored out before . The Pistons also prove this they have 0.040 stamped on them. Looks I will have to go to .060 over. What is the best way to clean up the cylinder heads inside and out? |
01-27-2015, 09:08 AM | #120 |
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Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
I was wondering what method of cleaning the cylinder heads is. For now they are just sitting in some kerosene. Was thinking of getting them baked and then sand blasting them. I want to make sure the water passages are good and clean.
What are some of the best ways to do this? |
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