T5 advice

[tubman]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

What about the full sized stamped steel bellhousing found on on some late models as well? I'd assume that would would too.

Didn't "Ol' Ron" post about this a while ago? I seem to remember that he re-drilled one hole and welded a tab onto a shoebox bellhousing and it worked for the post '48 cars.

[Pete]

There is a very simple adaption of a T5 to an 8ba block that you seldom hear about.
A Lakewood steel bell housing for a SBC was clamped and dialed in on the back of an 8ba block, then re-drilled to mate to the block.
All of the rest of the installation behind the block was stock parts. Flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, fork and bearing. Absolutely no mods to the transmission.

The only thing maybe keeping people from this adaption is, you need to modify an aluminum SBC flywheel by plugging one mounting hole and re-drilling the flange to flathead Ford.
Then fabricating a mounting bracket for the starter.
I used a mini starter but a stock one would work ok.

[Ziggster]

I don’t have a dog in this fight on whether one should use the S10 vs a Ford T5, but a HAMBER who’ve I personally met just recently posted that he was wishing to swap the gear set in his S10 T5. He doesn’t have a flathead, but mentioned first gear was useless.
In my OT project a couple years back I realized the gearing of the auto 3sp trans would result in around a 3,000 rpm highway cruising speed. I then decided to do the 5.3/4L80 swap due to the orig engine being woefully under powered and a gas guzzler (IH 345). I even ordered new R&P gear sets from Yukon so that at crushing speeds of about 70 mph, the engine was doing around 2,100 rpm. For me, this was imperative as I recall the days I had a 73 Ford Bronco with a 302/ 3 sp auto and 4.11 gears. It was brutal cruising at highway speeds with the engine winding out at 3,000 rpm. My point being is that folks should really look closely at the engine/trans/diff combo to ensure they have the correct gearing so that they can have maximum enjoyment from their vehicle.

[32coupe]

Your friend is correct! the S10 4.03 1st gear is pretty much useless. The problem with the S10 transmissions is that the bulk of them were Non World Class T5's (1984-1992) And they are decent transmissions However The World Class T5's are better They are stronger and they shift smoother. All ford T5's accept 1984 are World class units. 1993-95 S10 T5's are all World Class however the only S10 World Class T5's that has the GM Muncie style case bolt pattern is the one year only 1993 2.8 V6 T5. The 4cyl S10's in 93 had the Ford style case bolt pattern as well as the 94-95 S10's. Now you may be wondering why does it matter if your T5 has a GM or ford bolt pattern on the case if your going to adapt it anyhow. Well that is because most of the adapters out there are made for the GM Muncie bolt pattern case. There are only a few adapters out there that will let you use the Ford type T5 case. MDL makes one Old time speed makes one and I make one (Mine will use the ford or GM type case) so it doesn't matter which transmission you choose You can adapt it. My suggestion these days is buy whichever Worldclass T5 comes your way first and modify it to what you ultimately want it to be. Don't settle for the shitty factory S10 gears, Swap in a set of 1988-92 Camaro or 1993 Cobra 2.95 Gear set and cruise the wheels off your hotrod. There are going to be guys say "I been running a 89 s10 transmission without any problems for years and I love it" That's fine! But they just don't know what they are missing as if they had a good gear set in their car they would love it even more.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by 32coupe

Swap in a set of 1988-92 Camaro or 1993 Cobra 2.95 Gear set and cruise the wheels off your hotrod. There are going to be guys say "I been running a 89 s10 transmission without any problems for years and I love it" That's fine! But they just don't know what they are missing as if they had a good gear set in their car they would love it even more.

To get an idea of what a REAL close-ratio gear set sounds like in the real world, listen to the SHIFT POINTS of this Muncie with a close ratio gear set starting at about the 1:25 mark. No big drops in RPMs, and the feel of the steady pull is just utter perfection! "32coupe" is right. If anyone tried a well-thought-out set of gears just once, they'd never look back. Go to the 1:25 mark in the link BELOW!

Coop

https://youtu.be/2p6gTyW1Hzw


.

[Bored&Stroked]

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Couple questions (and it has been covered before, but I'm not sure where). If you have an S-10 trans with an electronic speedo, what is the "right way" to convert it over to mechanical speedo?

Can you use the same rear case? Do you need a different rear mainshaft (if so, where can one buy one)? Are there mods to "retrofit" the electronic setup to a manual setup. I just picked up a 2.95 geared S-10 (GM bolt-pattern) - need to figure out the "rest of the picture". Thanks!

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Couple questions (and it has been covered before, but I'm not sure where). If you have an S-10 trans with an electronic speedo, what is the "right way" to convert it over to mechanical speedo?

Can you use the same rear case? Do you need a different rear mainshaft (if so, where can one buy one)? Are there mods to "retrofit" the electronic setup to a manual setup. I just picked up a 2.95 geared S-10 (GM bolt-pattern) - need to figure out the "rest of the picture". Thanks!

Dale,

I could be totally off base, but I thought I recall Gary from Cornhuskers mentioning some type of converter that could be used for the electronic speedos.

[32coupe]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Couple questions (and it has been covered before, but I'm not sure where). If you have an S-10 trans with an electronic speedo, what is the "right way" to convert it over to mechanical speedo?

Can you use the same rear case? Do you need a different rear mainshaft (if so, where can one buy one)? Are there mods to "retrofit" the electronic setup to a manual setup. I just picked up a 2.95 geared S-10 (GM bolt-pattern) - need to figure out the "rest of the picture". Thanks!

Your mainshaft will work, You just need to remove the reluctor and put on a GM 7 tooth mech gear and clip. As far as the housing goes you need to mill down and weld in a fill piece, then machine a new hole at the correct angle for the bullet and plastic worm drive. If you have never done it and are only going to do one It is better to buy a new aftermarket housing from Allstate or send your housing to Alloyspeicalties and have them convert it for you. If you need any contact info or any help feel free to PM me.

[32coupe]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Couple questions (and it has been covered before, but I'm not sure where). If you have an S-10 trans with an electronic speedo, what is the "right way" to convert it over to mechanical speedo?

Can you use the same rear case? Do you need a different rear mainshaft (if so, where can one buy one)? Are there mods to "retrofit" the electronic setup to a manual setup. I just picked up a 2.95 geared S-10 (GM bolt-pattern) - need to figure out the "rest of the picture". Thanks!

This is what needs to be done to the tailhousing to convert it to mechanical speedo.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 32coupe

This is what needs to be done to the tailhousing to convert it to mechanical speedo.

[Bored&Stroked]

Thanks Tim! If I have to do some "custom work" to the current mainshaft - not a problem. I think I'll take it apart when I get back to Ohio and "explore" the problem. Hopefully some others have some guidance (at least on parts required) to handle the issue - or maybe a custom solution is the best way.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Thanks Tim! If I have to do some "custom work" to the current mainshaft - not a problem. I think I'll take it apart when I get back to Ohio and "explore" the problem. Hopefully some others have some guidance (at least on parts required) to handle the issue - or maybe a custom solution is the best way.

Let's us know what you found out. I also jumped into the T5 game by finally locating an affordable Jeep T5. Now the fun begins in making it all work.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Thanks Tim! If I have to do some "custom work" to the current mainshaft - not a problem. I think I'll take it apart when I get back to Ohio and "explore" the problem. Hopefully some others have some guidance (at least on parts required) to handle the issue - or maybe a custom solution is the best way.

Dale & Tim ...... No promises here guys, and I most certainly DO NOT have the definitive answer that you both require. BUT ..... I have already sent e-mails this morning to some people that should be in the 'KNOW' about this subject, and I'm dying to get back to both of you (and whomever else is interested) with some good, valid information. I'm workin' on it, guys.

I read both of your replies to the two different "T5" articles that came-up on the forum yesterday evening. Although I have had quite a few 'Barners contact me over the past few years about T5-stuff in general as well as pertaining to the torque tube aspect of all this, you two are the first "hardened", dyed-in-the-wool F'Barn folks that have seemed to show any REAL-WORLD interest in any possibility of marrying a T5 with a torque tube. I have been amazed at the seeming LACK of interest in the subject over the past few years. The ONLY serious car guy I know of that has married a Jeep T5 with a torque tube is Cory Taulbert that did it in his '32 5W coupe some time back and had amassed several thousands of miles last I heard. Note via the picture below that Cory's coupe is powered by one of those orange, UN-flatheads, but there's no difference in the end result whether using Brand X or a Henry flathead. It's all glued to the front end of a 'Henry' TORQUE TUBE.

DIRECTLY BELOW is a link to Cory's T5/Torque Tube Build in his '32!


https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/....994231/page-9