The Ford Barn

howie123 · 11-16-2013, 07:56 PM

The Ford logo was hand painted by the pinstriper. He did a beautiful job. I kept the choke and starter rods as close to original angle as I could determine. They run through the firewall with steel guide plates. The starter rod is just round stock threaded to screw into the starter switch with a wooden handle on top. With the firewall set back 3 inches, the starter rod enters behind the dash. I shortened a reproduction choke rod and made a longer sleeve using large diameter brake line. The GAV/choke rod also enters behind the dash. Operating the starter and choke at the same time is a stretch but I have long arms. I used a reproduction starter pedal as a gas pedal. I welded an extension to the stock throttle linkage and made a swivel for the pedal to screw into. I found all the final details to be the most enjoyable part of the project. This summer I added turn signals using a vintage turn signal unit and motorcycle signal lights mounted with custom made brackets. Thanks again for all the positive comments. Howie

Cockshutt Kid · 11-14-2013, 06:46 PM

Is there a reason that speedsters are mostly all 28/29. I have been having an urge to build a 31 speedster. Maybe with some 32 parts and a B engine and trans with later gears. Has anyone suggestions or pictures?

Ross/Kzoo · 11-14-2013, 07:26 PM

I believe it's the stock radiator height.

QGolden · 11-14-2013, 09:59 PM

It is because Rootlieb is the only one currently building a kit, and their kit uses the 28~29 Radiator. I am building a '31, although it uses an A engine and Chassis it is probably crossing the line into a Hot Rod, but I think that line is pretty thin where Model A Speedsters are concerned.

Jim Huseby · 11-14-2013, 10:18 PM

I have silently watched this thread, not wanting to interfere with the sale and enjoyment of the speedster originally discussed, until it was stated that there was only one builder of speedster "kits". I still don't want to interfere, but there is certainly more than one builder. For your enjoyment have a look at www.olympic-speedsters.com and call or email them if you want more pics . BTW, somewhere in the website there is a statement indicating that for administrative reasons, the shop is closed. Nope, the shop is very busy. Also, BTW, the reason the '28/'29 radiator is chosen is because it sits more than an inch lower than the later ones and makes the whole body lower.

QGolden · 11-14-2013, 10:30 PM

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Thank you Jim, I had forgotten about Olympia. Although I did not know that they built a "Kit" as. I indicated that Rootlieb does. I have not seen kits for sale on their website. They gave me the impression that they are a contract fabrication shop.

Skrain · 11-15-2013, 03:34 PM

A question for anyone with a Rootlieb speedster...how large are the seat buckets?

Sparky · 11-15-2013, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skrain

A question for anyone with a Rootlieb speedster...how large are the seat buckets?

You mean width? I'll measure mine for you when I get home.

George D · 11-15-2013, 03:37 PM

Thanks. Those pictures on the dirt track are cool!

Brian LI · 11-17-2013, 04:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by George D

Thanks. Those pictures on the dirt track are cool!

Latimore Valley fairgrounds in York Springs PA. Home of the Jalopy Showdown every May. A good time for sure.

Lots of info on it over on the HAMB.

48fordnut · 11-20-2013, 05:14 PM

Ok speedster fans, I have started on my 31 frame. It is almost bare and needs blasting.
Going on vacation and will try to post some pics in Dec when I get closer.Will be using ft brakes only,don't know about wheels yet. I like the look of wide 5 for the rear. Will be reversing the ft spring eyes,possibly a t spring in the rear. May try swapping my 31 rad and grill for 28/9
How thick is the plywood base? How thick is the metal for the body ?Why do you need to move the steering back? Not a problem though.
I have a friend that is very good at fabrication work,and he is going to help.

howie123 · 11-20-2013, 07:23 PM

The deck for the Rootleib kit is made of 2 layers of 3/4 inch plywood. The top layer is one large piece, the bottom layer is smaller pieces placed for reinforcement. I am not sure of the sheet metal thickness. It is quite easily formed over the cowl and around the seats. In the kit, the hood is about 3 inches longer than stock and so the firewall is about 3 inches further back. That requires moving the steering column back. It also means changing the choke rod, starter rod, throttle and spark linkage. If you are not using the kit, you can do whatever you'd like. I saw a picture of a speedster built using a stock cowl and fenders and it looked really nice. You can be as creative as you want and that is the fun part. Howie

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 11-21-2013, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 48fordnut

Will be using ft brakes only,don't know about wheels yet.

How thick is the plywood base? How thick is the metal for the body ?Why do you need to move the steering back? Not a problem though.
I have a friend that is very good at fabrication work,and he is going to help.

Not sure how well you are going to like just having front brakes driving on the street!

.
.

BTW, tell your friend that I know a way he can save himself a lotta work doing fabrication by telling you to talk to the owner of this car...

.

Skrain · 11-15-2013, 03:52 PM

Thanks. I need to know if MY bucket will fit in one, or if I will have to come up with a bench seat like Mike has...

Sparky · 11-15-2013, 05:57 PM

The shell is 20" wide and I have an inch of upholstery on each side, so it's about 18" on mine.

Skrain · 11-15-2013, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparky

The shell is 20" wide and I have an inch of upholstery on each side, so it's about 18" on mine.

Looks like it's going to be a bench seat for me!

Ross/Kzoo · 11-15-2013, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skrain

Looks like it's going to be a bench seat for me!

I was in pretty much the same boat until I came up with this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Model-T-Ford...item258326d286

I just noticed the ePay price is $55 more than their website price.

I've had mine for about 6 years and quite a few miles. Have some good foam in the upholstery and is comfortable. I'm 6'2" and 230#.

modelAsteve · 11-15-2013, 07:58 PM

You really don't want a bench seat! You will slide around and not enjoy the speedster. Just start with some metal and wrap it around you and go from there. They are really fun to build!

48fordnut · 11-20-2013, 08:34 PM

I will be copying the kit .Lowering the steering is not a problem.

Have been doing some research on my fathers side. My GGfather had a body shop where they built truck bodies, and wagons. It's not a stretch that he built some car bodies. This will be the Jefferson Body Shop Spl, B'ham Al. Would have been est around 1915 I think. I have the st address.Colors will be red /cream,black lettering.

Is there any chance I could see what the bottom panel of ply looks like?

Sparky · 11-20-2013, 10:34 PM

Does this help?

11-16-2013, 07:56 PM	#1
howie123 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Eau Claire, WI Posts: 115	Re: Speedster Kit The Ford logo was hand painted by the pinstriper. He did a beautiful job. I kept the choke and starter rods as close to original angle as I could determine. They run through the firewall with steel guide plates. The starter rod is just round stock threaded to screw into the starter switch with a wooden handle on top. With the firewall set back 3 inches, the starter rod enters behind the dash. I shortened a reproduction choke rod and made a longer sleeve using large diameter brake line. The GAV/choke rod also enters behind the dash. Operating the starter and choke at the same time is a stretch but I have long arms. I used a reproduction starter pedal as a gas pedal. I welded an extension to the stock throttle linkage and made a swivel for the pedal to screw into. I found all the final details to be the most enjoyable part of the project. This summer I added turn signals using a vintage turn signal unit and motorcycle signal lights mounted with custom made brackets. Thanks again for all the positive comments. Howie

11-14-2013, 06:46 PM	#2
Cockshutt Kid Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 81	Re: Speedster Kit Is there a reason that speedsters are mostly all 28/29. I have been having an urge to build a 31 speedster. Maybe with some 32 parts and a B engine and trans with later gears. Has anyone suggestions or pictures?

11-14-2013, 07:26 PM	#3
Ross/Kzoo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Richland Mi. Posts: 1,172	Re: Speedster Kit I believe it's the stock radiator height.

11-14-2013, 09:59 PM	#4
QGolden Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Alton, NH Posts: 1,231	Re: Speedster Kit It is because Rootlieb is the only one currently building a kit, and their kit uses the 28~29 Radiator. I am building a '31, although it uses an A engine and Chassis it is probably crossing the line into a Hot Rod, but I think that line is pretty thin where Model A Speedsters are concerned. __________________ It's not what people think they know that will hurt them, it is what they think they know that aint so! -Mark Twain. It is the very things that we think we know, that keep us from learning what we should know.- Unknown

11-14-2013, 10:18 PM	#5
Jim Huseby Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 361	Re: Speedster Kit I have silently watched this thread, not wanting to interfere with the sale and enjoyment of the speedster originally discussed, until it was stated that there was only one builder of speedster "kits". I still don't want to interfere, but there is certainly more than one builder. For your enjoyment have a look at www.olympic-speedsters.com and call or email them if you want more pics . BTW, somewhere in the website there is a statement indicating that for administrative reasons, the shop is closed. Nope, the shop is very busy. Also, BTW, the reason the '28/'29 radiator is chosen is because it sits more than an inch lower than the later ones and makes the whole body lower.

11-14-2013, 10:30 PM	#6
QGolden Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Alton, NH Posts: 1,231	Re: Speedster Kit Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Thank you Jim, I had forgotten about Olympia. Although I did not know that they built a "Kit" as. I indicated that Rootlieb does. I have not seen kits for sale on their website. They gave me the impression that they are a contract fabrication shop. __________________ It's not what people think they know that will hurt them, it is what they think they know that aint so! -Mark Twain. It is the very things that we think we know, that keep us from learning what we should know.- Unknown

11-15-2013, 03:34 PM	#7
Skrain Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Monticello, Kentucky Posts: 284	Re: Speedster Kit A question for anyone with a Rootlieb speedster...how large are the seat buckets? __________________ "They can make me grow older, but they CAN'T make me grow up!"

11-15-2013, 03:37 PM	#9
George D Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Little Falls NY Posts: 67	Re: Speedster Kit Thanks. Those pictures on the dirt track are cool!

11-20-2013, 05:14 PM	#11
48fordnut Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: warner robins ga 31088 Posts: 494	Re: Speedster Kit Ok speedster fans, I have started on my 31 frame. It is almost bare and needs blasting. Going on vacation and will try to post some pics in Dec when I get closer.Will be using ft brakes only,don't know about wheels yet. I like the look of wide 5 for the rear. Will be reversing the ft spring eyes,possibly a t spring in the rear. May try swapping my 31 rad and grill for 28/9 How thick is the plywood base? How thick is the metal for the body ?Why do you need to move the steering back? Not a problem though. I have a friend that is very good at fabrication work,and he is going to help.

11-20-2013, 07:23 PM	#12
howie123 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Eau Claire, WI Posts: 115	Re: Speedster Kit The deck for the Rootleib kit is made of 2 layers of 3/4 inch plywood. The top layer is one large piece, the bottom layer is smaller pieces placed for reinforcement. I am not sure of the sheet metal thickness. It is quite easily formed over the cowl and around the seats. In the kit, the hood is about 3 inches longer than stock and so the firewall is about 3 inches further back. That requires moving the steering column back. It also means changing the choke rod, starter rod, throttle and spark linkage. If you are not using the kit, you can do whatever you'd like. I saw a picture of a speedster built using a stock cowl and fenders and it looked really nice. You can be as creative as you want and that is the fun part. Howie

11-15-2013, 03:52 PM	#14
Skrain Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Monticello, Kentucky Posts: 284	Re: Speedster Kit Thanks. I need to know if MY bucket will fit in one, or if I will have to come up with a bench seat like Mike has... __________________ "They can make me grow older, but they CAN'T make me grow up!"

11-15-2013, 05:57 PM	#15
Sparky Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 650	Re: Speedster Kit The shell is 20" wide and I have an inch of upholstery on each side, so it's about 18" on mine.

11-15-2013, 07:58 PM	#18
modelAsteve Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Penn Valley (Nor-Cal) Ca Posts: 128	Re: Speedster Kit You really don't want a bench seat! You will slide around and not enjoy the speedster. Just start with some metal and wrap it around you and go from there. They are really fun to build!

11-20-2013, 08:34 PM	#19
48fordnut Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: warner robins ga 31088 Posts: 494	Re: Speedster Kit I will be copying the kit .Lowering the steering is not a problem. Have been doing some research on my fathers side. My GGfather had a body shop where they built truck bodies, and wagons. It's not a stretch that he built some car bodies. This will be the Jefferson Body Shop Spl, B'ham Al. Would have been est around 1915 I think. I have the st address.Colors will be red /cream,black lettering. Is there any chance I could see what the bottom panel of ply looks like?