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#41 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4,110
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This slide may help you.
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Bob Bidonde |
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#42 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,850
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ThosD, I think the performance Ares muffler sounds more like what I remember Model A's sounding like when I was a kid, but I am not sure. I don't hear anything like I did when I was a kid. Without my hearing aids I don't hear anything. I can only comment on the different between the stock manifold and Ares performance muffler and headers with a straight pipe. The performance was the same. I think if you were racing and running the engine at 7,000 rpm the headers would help. The subject of having a tuned exhaust system is a whole different topic.
Jeepguy, My Model T club would have technical sessions where a member would invite the club to their house to discuss some issue with their car. The person hosting the technical session would supply lunch, usually BBQ pork sandwiches.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. Last edited by nkaminar; 04-18-2024 at 06:50 AM. |
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#43 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Santee Calif.
Posts: 638
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#44 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,152
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SS is not like regular steel that hardens if you quench it after heating.
Unlike martensitic steels, the austenitic stainless steels are not hardenable by heat treatment as no phase changes occur on heating or cooling. Softening is done by heating in the 1050/1200°C range, ideally followed by rapid cooling. |
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#45 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4,110
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Hi Phil!
There is a clamp with a non-metallic liner available that should make an improvement.
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Bob Bidonde |
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#46 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Washington Cty., ME or Flagler Cty., FL
Posts: 1,193
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#47 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Washington Cty., ME or Flagler Cty., FL
Posts: 1,193
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Very sorry I submitted this tread incorrectly, Ed
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#48 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: La Honda, CA
Posts: 24
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If not using our special rear clamp please call me I will send you one, the stainless expands much more than steel and must be able to move freely at the clamp. 650-279-6609
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#49 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Mt. Pleasant, SC
Posts: 632
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This discussion is interesting….I bought a stainless steel muffler from Brattons in 1988 for my 31 roadster, and it is still on the car and working quite well. I;ve not had a single problem with it. I don;t know who the manufacturer of this muffler is, but, having 4 Model A’s in 55 years, I would buy another stainless steel muffler when the time comes.
Jim |
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#50 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,459
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Take the offer from Aries and get a free, correct clamp. I did about 4 months ago for my stainless and it fixed my issue.
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#51 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4,110
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Stainless steel requires a "Passivation Processing" following any machining / welding to remove foreign metal that gets embedded in the stainless. If not Passivated, the machined / welded zones corrode & fail. I suspect that the failures of the stainless steel exhaust pipe welds are due to the lack of Passivation. Passivation is done to the machined / welded places with a weak acid bath.
In my opinion, the muffler clamp on the Model A is not structurally capable by itself of causing the tailpipe weld failure. However, if the clamp does not allow / restricts the motion due to heat expansion of the muffler assembly, it raises the stress in the pipe joints that hastens the failures of the corroded joints.
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Bob Bidonde |
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