The Ford Barn

old31 · 06-12-2016, 04:56 PM

The pan was extremely flat. I filed the high spots and the low spots were filled in with JB. Weld.

The leak looks like it is coming from the rear seal area.

What do you guys use to hold up the rear square seal up. I first used Perm2 and stuck it up, and it would fall down. The seal was just not tight enough for the cavity. And that is with a few dabs of Perm2 in the corners. I finally ended up using contact cement to hold it up, and then some Perm2.

Mitch//pa · 06-12-2016, 04:59 PM

http://www.sacramentocapitolas.org/s...et-Article.pdf

Dollar Bill · 06-13-2016, 02:30 AM

Just to clarify, oil is leaking from rear of the oil pan and not the hole with the cotter key on the flywheel housing ?

Some random thoughts that may help with your pan gasket leak.

Follow the excellent instructions Mitch linked you to.
Make sure the surface is clean and dry with no oil seeping out of the block.
The little tabs at the rear of the pan gaskets must go under the square rear pan seal. Rail gaskets go on before the end cork.
Not sure which one you used but I like the thick paper pan gasket for its rigidity - I've seen cork squeeze out with time.
Dry fit gaskets before using adhesive.

Tom Wesenberg · 06-13-2016, 04:53 AM

I like to apply a thin coat of gasket cement to the side gaskets and push them into place. I then soak the cork end gaskets in hot water for a minute or two, then pat the water off and tuck them into the grooves. I've never had a cork gasket that didn't fit nice and tight into the grooves. I then put a dab of silicone into each of the 4 corners, and install the pan. I've had to sometimes trim the end of the cork because they were too long.

RonC · 06-13-2016, 05:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old31

The pan was extremely flat. I filed the high spots and the low spots were filled in with JB. Weld.

The leak looks like it is coming from the rear seal area.

What do you guys use to hold up the rear square seal up. I first used Perm2 and stuck it up, and it would fall down. The seal was just not tight enough for the cavity. And that is with a few dabs of Perm2 in the corners. I finally ended up using contact cement to hold it up, and then some Perm2.

To straighten a pan you tap the high spots down using a hard surface or steel bucking plate. You might have ruined the pan if you filed it thin. 1500 miles you should be contacting the engine rebuilder.

old31 · 06-13-2016, 08:45 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Dollar Bill

Just to clarify, oil is leaking from rear of the oil pan and not the hole with the cotter key on the flywheel housing ?

Some random thoughts that may help with your pan gasket leak.

Follow the excellent instructions Mitch linked you to.
Make sure the surface is clean and dry with no oil seeping out of the block.
The little tabs at the rear of the pan gaskets must go under the square rear pan seal. Rail gaskets go on before the end cork.
Not sure which one you used but I like the thick paper pan gasket for its rigidity - I've seen cork squeeze out with time.
Dry fit gaskets before using adhesive.

I have both leaking, the cotter pin and dripping down the back of the pan.

I am using the thin paper rail gaskets. Directions say nothing is to be put on the gaskets otherwise they will be ruined.

Bolts were torqued to 6lbs per Snyders instructions.

Mitch//pa · 06-13-2016, 09:18 AM

I like cork personally a better seal for me anyway's

tbirdtbird · 06-13-2016, 10:05 AM

"Isn't this bolt used to hold up the oil pump?"

No. As Tom W mentioned there are NO bolts holding the oil pump in place. That is a pipe thread plug that allows access to the oil gallery for pressure testing, etc. Very different.

The temporary oil pump retainer bolt jig you are referring to that the suppliers have does use that same hole, but for an entirely different purpose.
It is the big spring on the bottom of the pump body that pushes the pump up into the block.

You NEVER want to leave the temporary retaining jig in place after the pan is back on. If you do, the neck of the pump can shear off at the level of the block. Have a whole shelf full of these.

George Miller · 06-13-2016, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old31

I have both leaking, the cotter pin and dripping down the back of the pan.

I am using the thin paper rail gaskets. Directions say nothing is to be put on the gaskets otherwise they will be ruined.

Bolts were torqued to 6lbs per Snyders instructions.

I have seen them leaking from the camshaft bore in the back of the engine also. Some of It runs down the back of the block.

You need to put some sealer at junction where the pan rail gasket meets the throat gasket. If not you will probably have a leak. For me cork is the best, do not over tighten it.

Chuck Sea/Tac · 06-14-2016, 01:15 AM

How much front /rear play is in the crankshaft?
What's the rear bearing clearance?
Are the rear bearing oil grooves properly done?
Is the drain tube in place properly, and not screwed in too far, slowing draining oil?
Are the rear shims pushed up against the crank?
These are some things that constitute rear main leaks.

ian Simpson · 06-14-2016, 09:12 PM

I have over-filled oil more than once on different vehicles. Use a turkey baster to remove the surplus. You may need to extend the nozzle.

06-12-2016, 04:56 PM	#41
old31 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 2,459	Re: 31 Deluxe Roadster too much oil, should I drain some? The pan was extremely flat. I filed the high spots and the low spots were filled in with JB. Weld. The leak looks like it is coming from the rear seal area. What do you guys use to hold up the rear square seal up. I first used Perm2 and stuck it up, and it would fall down. The seal was just not tight enough for the cavity. And that is with a few dabs of Perm2 in the corners. I finally ended up using contact cement to hold it up, and then some Perm2. Last edited by old31; 06-12-2016 at 05:20 PM.

06-12-2016, 04:59 PM	#42
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: 31 Deluxe Roadster too much oil, should I drain some? http://www.sacramentocapitolas.org/s...et-Article.pdf

06-13-2016, 02:30 AM	#43
Dollar Bill Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Keystone Heights, FL Posts: 647	Re: 31 Deluxe Roadster too much oil, should I drain some? Just to clarify, oil is leaking from rear of the oil pan and not the hole with the cotter key on the flywheel housing ? Some random thoughts that may help with your pan gasket leak. Follow the excellent instructions Mitch linked you to. Make sure the surface is clean and dry with no oil seeping out of the block. The little tabs at the rear of the pan gaskets must go under the square rear pan seal. Rail gaskets go on before the end cork. Not sure which one you used but I like the thick paper pan gasket for its rigidity - I've seen cork squeeze out with time. Dry fit gaskets before using adhesive. __________________ I Love Anything That Turns Money Into Noise

06-13-2016, 04:53 AM	#44
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: 31 Deluxe Roadster too much oil, should I drain some? I like to apply a thin coat of gasket cement to the side gaskets and push them into place. I then soak the cork end gaskets in hot water for a minute or two, then pat the water off and tuck them into the grooves. I've never had a cork gasket that didn't fit nice and tight into the grooves. I then put a dab of silicone into each of the 4 corners, and install the pan. I've had to sometimes trim the end of the cork because they were too long.

06-13-2016, 09:18 AM	#47
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: 31 Deluxe Roadster too much oil, should I drain some? I like cork personally a better seal for me anyway's

06-13-2016, 10:05 AM	#48
tbirdtbird BANNED Join Date: May 2012 Location: inside your RAM Posts: 3,134	Re: 31 Deluxe Roadster too much oil, should I drain some? "Isn't this bolt used to hold up the oil pump?" No. As Tom W mentioned there are NO bolts holding the oil pump in place. That is a pipe thread plug that allows access to the oil gallery for pressure testing, etc. Very different. The temporary oil pump retainer bolt jig you are referring to that the suppliers have does use that same hole, but for an entirely different purpose. It is the big spring on the bottom of the pump body that pushes the pump up into the block. You NEVER want to leave the temporary retaining jig in place after the pan is back on. If you do, the neck of the pump can shear off at the level of the block. Have a whole shelf full of these. __________________ '31 180A

06-14-2016, 01:15 AM	#50
Chuck Sea/Tac Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Between Seattle & Tacoma Posts: 2,411	Re: 31 Deluxe Roadster too much oil, should I drain some? How much front /rear play is in the crankshaft? What's the rear bearing clearance? Are the rear bearing oil grooves properly done? Is the drain tube in place properly, and not screwed in too far, slowing draining oil? Are the rear shims pushed up against the crank? These are some things that constitute rear main leaks.

06-14-2016, 09:12 PM	#51
ian Simpson Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 709	Re: 31 Deluxe Roadster too much oil, should I drain some? I have over-filled oil more than once on different vehicles. Use a turkey baster to remove the surplus. You may need to extend the nozzle.