Rebuilding my Flathead random questions

[busmania]

Next question.

In putting things together I realized I was missing the rear main rope seal housing piece (block side). I found one locally today. But, in talking with him it sounds like the other half I have (main bearing cap side) is wrong. Can you have a look and tell me, is the half with the rope seal in it and triangular groove wrong?

Barnfind08, thanks for talking with me today, looking forward to receiving the parts I ordered.

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[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by busmania

Next question.

In putting things together I realized I was missing the rear main rope seal housing piece (block side). I found one locally today. But, in talking with him it sounds like the other half I have (main bearing cap side) is wrong. Can you have a look and tell me, is the half with the rope seal in it and triangular groove wrong?

Barnfind08, thanks for talking with me today, looking forward to receiving the parts I ordered.

[flatjack9]

That is wrong. It is used with the slinger system. Barnfind should have the right part.

[busmania]

Cool. I ordered both halves from barn find so I should be good.

[Bored&Stroked]

Also, as I mentioned before, you need to drill and install the roll-pin that comes with the GraphTite rear-main seal kit.

Always dry-fit the two seal plates into the block and cap and make sure they are NOT sticking up above the surface - if they are, then machine them down to be flush, or slightly below the surfaces. Use some silicone sealer on the ends of the seals and the pot-metal seal-holder ends.

[busmania]

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Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Also, as I mentioned before, you need to drill and install the roll-pin that comes with the GraphTite rear-main seal kit.
.

Any more info (visuals/photos) on this? I do t remember seeing any sort of pin in the rope seal kit but I could have lost or missed it. I did order a back up kit today as I’ll probably redo the rope seal I did since that half won’t work anyway, I’d rather start from scratch. I. Reading the instructions for the seal, it does mention this pin but no visuals. Where does one drill the hole for the pin? How big is this pin? Appreciate y’all’s help!

[Bored&Stroked]

I don't have any photos handy, but I just miced the roll-pin (seems I remember it being a 1/16" pin), then put the seal plate in my mill and carefully drilled the center of the seal-location for about 1/2 the depth/length of the pin. Then I just pushed the roll-pin in, before pushing the graphite rear main seal in.

Again, as your seal plates did NOT come in your block, check to make darn sure they don't stick up above the deck ANY amount. If so, they will screw up your main cap fitment.

Note: I had to mill mine down a bit (same situation as you - early engine that used the old labyrinth type seal plates when originally manufactured).

[busmania]

Next question! If when I torque the mains down to 75-80 ft pounds the hole for the safety wire is covered, should I tighten more so the wire can go through? Or loosen?

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[Mart]

Swap the nuts around and try and find a situation where each one corresponds to the hole alignment while being within the torque range. When I did it I took a chisel and put a mark on the end of the stud in line with the hole. It helped a lot when visualising the stud alignment when trying to hit the sweet spot.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by busmania

Next question! If when I torque the mains down to 75-80 ft pounds the hole for the safety wire is covered, should I tighten more so the wire can go through? Or loosen?

[busmania]

Swapping the nuts worked. Thanks for the help!

Next up. When adjusting valves. Are they adjusted when completely closed?

[Mart]

Originally Posted by busmania

Swapping the nuts worked. Thanks for the help!

Next up. When adjusting valves. Are they adjusted when completely closed?

Yes.

[busmania]

Thanks Mart. I’m getting there. Valve train installed!

Next up, pistons. What should the ring gap Be? Out of the box I’m at .009”. The instructions that came with the rings are worthless. Also, are the two top rings the same? I have 16 of the thick metal rings and the appear to be the same. Dots point up right? And what about the lowest ring (4th ring). I’ve read some people don’t use this and only do 3 rings?


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[38 coupe]

Typically I go 0.004" per inch of bore for cast iron rings (all I have experience with, I have only built stock type engines). For a stock 3 3/16 bore engine that works out to 3.1875 x 0.004 = .01275
I aim for .013 or .014 gap.
Your ring manufacturer should have directions on gap for the type of ring, and installation directions. What brand of rings are you using?

[Mart]

Minimum of 3.5 thou per inch of bore. You should be shooting for about 12 to 14 thou. Make sure you measure in the tightest part of the bore.

Others opinions may vary.

The ring instructions should state which are top and 2nd. That chamfer you can see in the pic of the ring with the feeler normally goes to the top. Rings are often marked top or have a dot as you say. Contact manufacturer if unsure.

Check with them for recommended gap also.

[busmania]

Looks like mahle rings. It shows the top rings should be different than bottom but all 16 of my compression rings are the same. I circled the ring type on the instructions. I bought from van pelt. Egge pistons.

So .004 per inch of bore. Got that. But is it normal for the top two rings to be the same? Instructions make it look like they should be different?


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[Bored&Stroked]

It is possible that they are the same, but you have to be dang sure. I've not used Mahle rings, but in every engine I've built, there were differences between top and 2nd rings. That does not mean it is true in your case.

Take some time to really inspect them and see if the chamfers, dots or other markings are different between the two sets. If you install them upside down, they will not correctly seal. When in doubt, talk to Mac VanPelt and probably the manufacturer as well.

This isn't something you want to get wrong.

[Bored&Stroked]

What are you using for assembly lube for the bearings, pistons, bores, cam, etc? Hopefully you've picked up some quality lube - which in my case is always different for the bearings, the cam and the bores.

[busmania]

I am using the lube that my cam came with for the cam and lifters. I am using a high end lube for all of the bearings and other areas that the machine shop gave me.

I got the rings all gapped and confirmed with Van Pelt that they are correct.

Next question. Should I be using Loctite or anything on the rod nuts? The book does not mention it.

[flatjack9]

No Loctite. I use ARP thread lube. Also use ARP small block chev rod nuts torqued to 45 lb ft.