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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Powell, TN
Posts: 2,617
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JWL has my thoughts on the head gasket thing. Do you have studs or bolts for the heads? Bolts have a way of bottoming out and not pulling the head down if the holes have not been chased. Also, the lifter thing sounds like a reground cam with std lenght adjustable lifter screws. They are too short for reground cams, proper adjustable lifters have a very thick head.
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mid coast Maine
Posts: 1,878
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When I got my 39 with and 8ba engine it was running hot.Even in 30 degs weather couldn,t get 8 miles with out over heating.
I bought a new Walker Raditor and in testing with no water caused my water pump to leaks and burned my temp gauge. I had engine out to do other things. So i bought new waterpumps,still not runing temp gauge and running over year now with no problem.With 2 water pumps running you can push a lot of water.I,d get a new rad. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Auburn, MA
Posts: 2,106
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This is what separates men from boys. Now don't take that wrong. You will find some of the best mechanics on here scratching their heads about something in spite of all their experience with flatheads. If you are getting water in the oil then you have an internal leak somewhere. Did you have the heads planed? It is possible a crack in the block was overlooked. Infrared thermometers are relatively cheap and can tell you a lot about what is going on. You are not the first to run into an unexpected stone wall and you won't be the last. I think a little more investigation on the original motor will be easier than installing a different one. I personally enjoy experiencing these vehicles as built.
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“The technique of infamy is to start two lies at once and get people arguing heatedly over which is true.” ~ Ezra Pound |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: FRANKLIN GEORGIA
Posts: 158
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Radiator rod it out or replace it with a new one cleaning just does not work ,been there and done that , and set the timming like mentioned
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 17,411
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Mechanics back in 1949 were having the same troubles as you are now. Sometimes you get into situation where one thing leads to another and it will try the best mans patience to the max. If your block was Magnafluxed & pressure tested for signs of leakage and passed those tests, I would figure head gasket leakage first as was mentioned previously. Some manufacturers of gaskets make a better product than others. Most require a good coat of copper coat or at least aluminum pigment paint before installation. In any case, once you get the parts all working in unison, it will be reliable.
My Pop had many old Ford flathead vehicles. Some of the trucks would set for near a year before we needed them for wheat harvest or what have you. We would go out and pull the battery for charging. Put it in after a good charge and fire the damn things up for another 3-weeks of work before putting them up again till the fall harvest. They would work this way for many years. You just had to make certain that the cooling system was well stocked with anti-freeze for the winter months or you'd be looking for a good block for sure. My old 51 Merc was used by the family until a new car was purchased in the early 60s then it was relegated to student driving for all of us kids. My three other siblings and I did everything to it but take good car of it. It lasted till the mid 70s before some crud in the carburettor finally sidelined it. By then we had other vehicles to drive so it was put out to pasture. Unless your block is cracked, it shouldn't take too much to get it back up in good order. You're on a learning curve now but with the troubles your experiencing, you'll be a specialist before long. Kerby |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tyler,TX
Posts: 462
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#7 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South California
Posts: 6,190
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![]() Quote:
![]() No offense intended, but you sound like a youngin , as in..i want it now,etc.. Sounds like you have hung in there and spent plenty of money/time/effort on your vehicle thus far. Sounds like a little more patience will make you a winner..over this old iron/technology. Long distance, it's hard to be a good helper, but I've read your stmts closely and here's where I'd go from here: You say..'ran awesome for three wks' then trouble (i.e.- puking) To me this most importantly points up HEAD GASKETS to be checked first. Second clue pointing to head gasket failure is water in places where is ain't to be. You never said, but what checks did you do: foaming/bubbles in radiator; compression test each cyl; see which plug has water on it after short start up....all/any these easy/quick checks may reveal/suggest problem/solution. You've already given us that you had radiator cleaned/whatever..so that can rule out (for now) overheating..and it ran great for THREE wks as evidence of this. Ditto for three wks on dizzy/pumps/whatever. Ahh, but three wks...may be just about right for a poorly fitted/manufactured/torqued/whatever head gasket,eh ! Makes me sick, that is ..shelling out enough $ to do a flaty when cuz spends one third to buy a complete bowtie crate with twice the juice. Now back to your original question re: sought after; But, when youse grow up (back to age of user ![]() I don't know squat about tech specifics, like Ron and others here, but I know what I like...and that's why I AM THE GARBAGE collector! Let us know what you find. Last edited by hardtimes; 10-23-2011 at 01:06 PM. Reason: ADD.. |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Above the gnat line in Georgia
Posts: 7,082
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Is it ACTUALLY running HOT, or is the radiator plugged and causing it to puke water?
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: FRANKLIN GEORGIA
Posts: 158
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dont give up
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2,260
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rotorwrench>>>Unless your block is cracked, it shouldn't take too much to get it back up in good order.>>>
Paul>>>It's easy enough to check and replace the head gaskets.>>>re-torqued the heads three times>>> Ditto. Except re-torque till NONE of the 48 numbers drift anymore! Then re-torque a few more times every so often just for good measure. 8^) Jack E/NJ |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: oroville ca.
Posts: 1,554
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to sum it all up, blown head gasket because of inproper torquring sequence, warped head because it wasnt surfaced to make sure it isnt warped, slow timing, plugged radiator, a quick check for that, with engine warmed up put your hand in front of the rad away from the fan, if the top of rad is hot and the bottom cold the radiator is plugged
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 419
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Here is what I found today: 1. Double pulley on crank fan belt pulley not attached so I welded that puppy together. 2. Flushed out block and radiator with connector I made to attach garden hose to rad hoses since I had rad out. 3. Torque down heads again ther were a couple that were just under 48lbs.
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 419
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I ran her for about 45 mnts after dinner and it really didn't get any hotter on either side (I ran a switch so I could monitor both sides) then 190ish. I guess thats where it needs to be?
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 419
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I did find an old timer who has built these motors before. He did most of the assembly for me since I knew better than to do something I had little clue on. So thats the story now. Now ignition time thats the only variable that I have left. Electronic or just have Bubba rebuild what I have. I think I will take helmet style and convert it to crab at least.
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#15 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: so cal, placerville, vegas
Posts: 1,414
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sinclairville NY
Posts: 230
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I am wondering if my vacum line blocked somehow, always suspected advance wasn't working. Can you take the line off the distributor & check for suction?
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: san diego
Posts: 114
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#18 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Henderson NV
Posts: 19
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My 39 has been on the road for 5 years now.39 flathead.runs good and has never over heated even here in the Vegas summer .I would agree with Mr 42 and tinker.
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oshkosh, Wi
Posts: 4,600
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Anything prior to 1949 (1948 trucks) were mechanical advance with a vacuum brake that slowed advance when accelerating.
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Waddell, AZ
Posts: 2,540
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another question i have....what kind of break-in did you do with your engine??....sounds like you might be on the road to fixing your problems....good luck and hang in there....Mike
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