Adjustable lifters

[JSeery]

To allow for a higher lift cam I like them as low as practical.

[Blowby]

Do you adjust them on the base circle or at top of lift?

[GOSFAST]

I would strongly recommend using ONLY the original "Johnson" tappets, they are still available from the same company that began it all. They are all we still use to this day.

I would really be hesitant to use ANY lifter sold as a "Johnson Style", I don't care what anyone tells you about where they were mfd, I wouldn't risk it. For as far back as I can recall we've not had one single lifter complaint, none coming "loose", none "wearing-out", etc., and have sold hundreds upon hundreds.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. If it helps with the drilling of the block I'll place 2 photos here showing the locations on the bores and the hand drill/bit we use here. It makes the actual drilling really simple! The bits are sort of "flexible" due to the length, never broke one however, just takes some care.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Blowby

Do you adjust them on the base circle or at top of lift?

Base, there is no gap at the top of lift as the lifter is pushing against the valve tip and compressing the spring.

[Blowby]

Thanks guys. Gary I assume you drill the holes for and aft to avoid drilling over the intake ports?

With cam on base circle the adjuster bolt is partway in the lifter bore, not sure I will be able to get a wrench on it. I have an old motorcycle with the same situation, which necessitates getting on the lobe for wrench room, then turning it back on the base circle to check clearance. This is a V8-60 if that makes a difference.

[JSeery]

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Originally Posted by Blowby

With cam on base circle the adjuster bolt is partway in the lifter bore, not sure I will be able to get a wrench on it. I have an old motorcycle with the same situation, which necessitates getting on the lobe for wrench room, then turning it back on the base circle to check clearance. This is a V8-60 if that makes a difference.

That is the reason for grinding the opening in the side of the bore, to clear the wrench. Look at the photo I posted in #22 above. These are just half-rounds, but I think I will enlarge them to be more squared off for additional clearance.

Here is another example, but still not squared off.

[Blowby]

Ah OK thanks. I saw that in your previous photo but didn't know what it was. The other photos on this thread don't have the reliefs cut. So it's standard procedure, doesn't cause extra wear on the lifter bores?

[JSeery]

It all depends on the cam you are running. That determines how deep the lifter goes down into the bore. The higher the lift the deeper the lifter will end up in the bore and there comes a point where you need the reliefs to get to the adjuster. All cams start out with the same blanks (this may be over simplified but should be ok for this example). The higher the lift the smaller the base circle ends up and the lower the lifter goes in the bore when it's on the base circle. Thus the need for the reliefs. It is common practice if the cam requires it.

[Blowby]

OK got it. I'm waiting for my cam to come back from Schneider, then I'll be able to see how much the base circle has been reduced. Thanks!

[my4dv8]

Thanks Gary, Did not know that genuine Johnson was still in production. I am wary of the Johnson style lifters.
The flatattack lifters from Australia were good ,but alas no longer. Though Mike must still have the tooling.
Do you have a contact for the Genuine Johnson lifters? Thanks

[robert dick]

Chet where in Ma.? i'm in the Lowell area and if you can stop by i'll give you a pair .

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by robert dick

Chet where in Ma.? i'm in the Lowell area and if you can stop by i'll give you a pair .

Good info here guys, but Chet started this thread SIX years ago! DD

[Ronnie]

Make up this wrench drill the holes and all is well no need to scallop the bore.The wrench drops on and doesn't slip.

R

[Shoebox]

Now that's THINKIN!

[big job]

Guess I'm lucky, my neighbor long time parts man local Ford Tractor gave me the
wrench ford script and the holder 'ford scrip' which is one piece with two tangs
not the usual two piece. That was late 60's or 70's. All rebuilds they did got
adj lifters.. We got all out V8 stuff from them, too bad other went south couple
years ago.... All he said back then "remember where ya got it" statue of limitations
mine now............

[s nichols]

on new lifters i adjust one then do each one to that length holding them in a vice with soft jaws this way you dont need to turn them as much in block for final adjustment

[deuce_roadster]

I didn't see where Gofast purchases his original Johnson lifters.

[tubman]

I'd like to know this as well. My current choices with my new MAX-1 are butt-grinding a set of NOS Ford lifters (preferred) or using the old heavy lifters that came with the cam. If the stockers don't work out for some reason, I'd like a third choice. I'd like to keep the valve train as light as possible because......well, just because.

By the way "s nichols", knowing the precision that went into the original manufacturing of these engines, that's a real good tip!

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

I didn't see where Gofast purchases his original Johnson lifters.

COPIED AND PASTED FROM AN OLD POST: DD

GOSFAST
Senior Member



Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 452


Re: Adjustable lifters keep backing off - what do u do?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnie
Here u go

http://www.toplineauto.com/index.asp

http://www.toplineauto.com/about-us.asp

http://hylift-johnson.com/our-company/

Find out who sells their product. They bought the Johnson plant and even hired some of the old employee's.

R

Above here is where we buy the lifters, I'm not sure you can buy direct however!! Possibly, but not really sure?

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I can tell you when we make this lifter purchase we buy a "tray" at a time to help offset some costs. I believe for the Flatheads there are 96 lifters to one tray, on the Chev's/Pontiac's, etc. we buy 128 lifters at a clip!

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by tubman

I'd like to know this as well. My current choices with my new MAX-1 are butt-grinding a set of NOS Ford lifters (preferred) or using the old heavy lifters that came with the cam. If the stockers don't work out for some reason, I'd like a third choice. I'd like to keep the valve train as light as possible because......well, just because.

By the way "s nichols", knowing the precision that went into the original manufacturing of these engines, that's a real good tip!

Not sure what you are referring to as "heavy" lifters as all the adjustables are heaver than the originals. There are solid adjustable lifters and hollow adjustable lifters. The hollows are lighter than the solids. Red's sells the hollow ones.