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#21 | |
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
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https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/tru...olenoid-switch If you use the solenoid you just bought, Then the mounting tabs and bolting must be isolated from ground. You would need to have a piece of rubber under the mounting tabs and plastic bolting for example, like those available for mounting license plates. Then a wire or ring terminal under the plastic bolt head. This wire would then go to the one wire push button for grounding and activating the solenoid. The wire to the S terminal on the solenoid must be a fused 12V source.
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Archives of historical but relevant older articles: ------------- Hover mouse over the links below and click! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--------------- Rumble Seat's Notes Techno-Source-for-the-1932-thru-1953-Flathead-Ford Last edited by glennpm; 03-12-2025 at 06:42 AM. |
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#22 |
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Join Date: Mar 2017
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So if I use the solinoid pictured above with the three posts, presume post 3 from battery is the positive battery cable? Post 1 goes to starter, the solinoid itself is not grounded externally by mounting to firewall, and post 2 is a lead to the starter button on the dash. All other electrical would work as currently installed? This seems like a simple set up to accomplish and would give me my desired effect of a military on/off switch and the starter dash button. Still tracking two wires from current solinoid set up, one is single wire to keyed ignition but other enters a loom with other wiring harness wires and will need som volt meter work to ID. Any thoughts on what a second wire from the same post as the keyed ignition start wire would be? I cannot think of another item that would only be energized during the start position. I could remove one at a time and see what stops working, I suppose.
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#23 | |
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
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Archives of historical but relevant older articles: ------------- Hover mouse over the links below and click! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--------------- Rumble Seat's Notes Techno-Source-for-the-1932-thru-1953-Flathead-Ford Last edited by glennpm; 03-12-2025 at 09:34 AM. |
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#24 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
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You have a solenoid that uses +12 to actuate it (from the ignition switch) . . . not a ground connection from the original dash button. Ken gave you a part number for another type of solenoid that uses a ground signal to actuate it. If you switch over, then you will NOT be using the keyed ignition switch any longer.
You still need to determine why you have 2 wires going to the current solenoid and WHERE they come from. I highly recommend you purchase a voltmeter such that you can actually trouble-shoot stuff. You shouldn't just be connecting wires in various places - not knowing what they do or where they come from. Just trying to help you out here. ![]() That is just asking to create a short condition and potentially a big spark or even a fire. |
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#25 | |
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Location: Alabama
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#26 |
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#27 | |
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
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Archives of historical but relevant older articles: ------------- Hover mouse over the links below and click! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--------------- Rumble Seat's Notes Techno-Source-for-the-1932-thru-1953-Flathead-Ford Last edited by glennpm; 03-12-2025 at 12:11 PM. Reason: Removed paragraph on 6V solenoids used with 12V |
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