32 5W rear window roll down

[3W Hank]

How much I dont like it I guess the UP parts from Summit is har to beat ( drip plate )
This is a part hard to find ( not rusted or need work ) and as one said ; I build a hotrod, not a 100 pt std car.
But I’m very into has Henry parts and old speed parts.
Its not seen in the car and I has actually the UP floor.
This floor was in the body when I bought and and Yes I found a beat-up rusted ( VERY ) expensive std 32 floor, but it dont make sense cut it out… but how can this parts be sooooo expensive ? ( and not Ok )

I has the package tray, I found the A-Ford wndow crank ( A-Ford door ) real cheap.
But whats struggle me I dont like be in the Taiwan stuff so how to do on the wood, but I has maybe 50% Henry.

If anyone has std wood = contact me private ( I pay good )

[CHuDWah]

Originally Posted by highbeams

This '33 3w has its roll-down w/ Henry's 'safety glass'; i.e., two sheets of plate glass; i.e., Ford Safety Glass Company glass; its clear material glued between the two sheets; termed 'shatter-proof' in Ford ads. (Do read why Henry created his Ford Safety Glass Company because of an accident he had in 1931 during his proud demonstration of the new '31 Model A.

The safety glass company and its building was separate and apart from Ford with employees paid by Ford Glass, although neighboring on Ford property in Dearborn.

After creating the safety glass company, realizing that he was thee only auto glass maker in the world, he supplied the safety glass for any and all auto makers on the planet.

Replies and if any corrections welcome! Thank You -

Ford used laminated safety glass windshields in the Model A throughout production. (I think that use actually began in the Model T era. Supposedly the catalyst was Henry and/or friends being injured when plate glass shattered.) A couple high-end Model A also had it standard in the passenger compartment. Otherwise, side windows were plate glass until 1931 when laminated glass became an extra-cost option.

[3W Hank]

Had it been figure out if the A-Ford passanger side rear door regulator is equal to the 32 std coupes rear window.
As DavidG showed : B-528400
I read now on lengt on handle can vary.
I might has locate a old std A-Ford here.
Not seen it yet.

On handle I can use a new ( several sell it as PU, Early Ford store, Mud’s etc )
I was going for old door handles/window cranks but hard to find and cracked, so I bought a new set.
This set was told maybe be old Ford replacements ( NORS ) as a rubber inside handle ( as not new made ( as I was told ) but the ones I got is new made but maybe older repros.
-Atleast they will not crack for me.

Then a new…issue comes upp on glass thickness and felt thickness.
Who sell the felt in roof slides and the lower bar that the glass are into.

I has not inestigate if we has only mm thickness here as I live in Sweden.

I guess on glass I need make a own thread ( later on )

[WRA]

I’ve done two of these rear windows and they can be a real challenge. Finding the correct, original regulator and glass channel was the biggest obstacle.

I found the reproduction regulator was very poor quality and did not fit the wood. The glass channel was grossly incorrect, with regulator slots, inches out of place.

I did try a modified Model A Fordor regulator that was a substitute. But I found that it did not offer the full travel and window only came down 2/3 way.

In the end I used the wood kit from UP, original regulator & glass channel.

[3W Hank]

Yes people tell me this it so easy, a very simple design but one thing I learn with cars, machines it’s not a coincidence the parts fit together done from factory.
And once dissembled the challenge starts..
Get the Chinese company in it and its often a disaster.
If I complain this shops say then use your old stuff.
I been in Mopar restoration since the 80’s so back then it was really ugly now some company do just fine repro.
Same with tractor parts there all is from China, nothing fits but its cheap parts.

I will try stay away from Chine regulators.
But how to find one std 32 ?
Ex Snyder sell regulator to A-Ford ( best on the market they say = no more skips and jumps )
But if they not is correct replacement ( the A-Ford passenger side door ) to the 32 5W regulator ?
On eBay a company sell a regulator fit all from 28 to 36 at 45 USD..

I think I can live with the UP drain plate but I will keep searching for a std, but the lower glass channel.
I has maybe a std lower glass a channel to borrow to copy.
But is really the UP that bad ? ( B20117 )

On Snyder's web I see felt etc ( A-Ford only ) but can’t find equal to 32.

Se my rear window metal frame in body ( vs felt channels (?)


-If you think I'm confused ( ask questions ) well I has not work with this cars and I bought every thing the hard way, when I bought a parts its totally empty, no bolts, no nothing so... ;- ))

[3W Hank]

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I locate this 2 up, seller said he dont know what it is, se pics.

[Karl Wescott]

If the regulators Hank posted pictures of are Ford (and that is a HUGE if) these are most likely 1932-34 pickup.



To use on the 5W back window might require modifying the arm length and the shaft length and the height of the mounting standoff. If they were to need rebuilding this style of regulator pinion and clutch assembly is NOT compatible with rebuild kits that are/have been available. Also before using check the handle shaft, many were steel (which is good) and many were pot metal (which is bad because if not broken and rotten will be so with use).


The die cast handle shafts are a rare example of a US made part which is CRAP. I don't know Ford used them OEM or they were only aftermarket (I understand Ford out-sourced regulator assemblies from many vendors so there were many variants installed when new, and there was a lively after market selling regulators to glass shops).

[3W Hank]

Karl,

So if I get Ford pickup 32/34 doors to use in a std 32 5W coupe, they will not fit ( is that what you say.

I'll just came home from look into a Very nice std 32 5W coupe but I could not see the regulator.
Owner had what he said was pickup 32 doors ( se picture below ) and he had also a new aftermarket.
He might had a drip steel plate but said they is rusted.

You might see on the picture if its steel handle shaft or die cast.
( On picture this is not for sale.

[3W Hank]

Steel or die cast arm ?
( for sale

[jdpaxton]

With the chop top, the rear glass will have to be shorter than a stock coupe. Both of the coupes I have had were not chopped and the glass only pockets about 2/3 when rolled down. So with the chop, and stock regulator, you might only have a letter slot even with shorter glass.

[3W Hank]

I might be wrong here, but a chopped coupe should can have std windows as to reach down to lowest position ( ride on a rubber ) then one only not go full upp ( ex 3” ) and same must be for the rear window or ?

[jdpaxton]

Will measure in the A.M. using a 3'' chop.

[jdpaxton]

A 3" chop will still net 2 1/2" of air flow vs. 5 1/2" stock. Very much worth the roll down feature. The cowl vent is by far more important however, as it helps getting rid of heat from firewall and floor.