|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#21 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 5,723
|
![]() Quote:
Always check the clearance at the tops of the valves with the earlier heads. You can easily do this with modeling clay. If you find any clearance issues, it will usually be up by the top of the valve (in the "eyebrow" area). You can easily use an air driven die-grinder to add any clearance you may need . . . taking the LEAST amount of material off as possible. I've seen may folks fly-cut these heads on a milling machine - using an angle that is parallel to the deck. This is not the way to do it as the valves are canted. So, unless the fixture/head is canted to match the valve angle (and you "move the cutter into the eyebrow from the center", you're removing material where it doesn't need to be removed (material towards the cylinder area). Compression is your friend, so only remove enough material to make sure the valves are not hitting the head (without a gasket in place). |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#22 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 620
|
![]()
i recently rebuilt a 59 for my 41. You will be pleased with the extra power.
|
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|