Replacing Rear Spring U-Bolts?

[8EL]

Originally Posted by gdmn852

Hello again, I think the squeak strip , the webbing between the floor riser and frame cross member may have been more common on rumble seat cars, just a guess.

That could well be, what do you think of the strip being instructed to be placed between the spring and the cross member?

[8EL]

Originally Posted by Ron Blissit

I made a tool to straighten the u bolts in place with no damage to the threads. 4 inch piece of 1/2 black pipe 1/2 elbow with a other pipe as a handle 18 to 24 inches long. slide the 4 inch section over the exposed u bolt and use the longer piece to bend the bolt. worked fo me.

Thanks,
I was thinking of something along those regards, only using large bolts like a bearing separator to squeeze the legs to parallel with one another.
One block with a through hole , the other threaded.

[8EL]

Fellas, what do you think of cutting the old U-bolt off, and elongating the hole in a lateral orientation with the center line of the cross member, just enough to get the new fastener in?

[8EL]

So I did raise the body and replace the original u-bolts, I say original because they were forgings with an indexing tit on the underside. These original bolts had a reach of 4 3/16", the replacement A-5705 parts from Snyders measure 4". Along with the bolts A-5708-A spring clips for springs having 7-8 leaves were also installed
The spring itself fits tightly in the cross member so it is hard to determine if the bolt head is in the hole provided in the cross member, but I believe it is. This all being said, the bolts are not long enough to be tightened and install the carter keys in their assembly holes which are 3 7/8" from the underside of the bolt. In looking at the old bolts their spread is quite apparent, also the old clip mounting ears are not parallel with the spring face, as the new ones are.

This angle would reduce the reach needed on the bolts. These clips appear to be forgings, and I doubt that they were pulled into this position. I suspect that they were formed this way. Does anyone know what they truly were when new? I also have a anti squeak pad between the spring and the cross member which would also require greater reach. As said previously Les Andrew's book directs to install it in this way, but I do have concerns that as it yields to the load it will leave the spring loose to pound itself to death in the cross member.

Do you think it advisable to lightly grind the edges of the leaves to provide additional side clearance to insure proper engagement of the center bolt in the cross member?

The attached photos show the old and new part comparisons respectively....