Mounted the Pickup Cab on the Frame - :(

[Farrell In Vancouver]

I had the same issue with the AA, the unit had been bounced over some pretty rough terrain and broke every mounting point out of the cab. Up Front they incorporated to steel straps to use as mounts (and of course had to drill three holes each to bolt the straps to the fire wall). This went well with the two 2" holes in the firewall for some hydraulic pump hoses. All in all there was at least 42 holes that should not be in the wall and like I said every mount long broken away. Still, the sheet metal and wood were well preserved from all the Hyd. oil. I took some measurements off my fathers 82-B for the front mount build, let me know if you need them. Cheers!

[Brace Bailey]

Got the front mounts built and welded in. I am considering reinforcing them with the additional plates I made. See the pictures.... Am I over doing this?

I haven't welded them in yet... may be over kill, and won't look quite original.
I will clean up the welds.

I'm thinking I'll set the body back on the frame and drill the holes.
I got the pads from Snyders. Only 1/8" thick. May have to have thicker pads or more oak.

[Farrell In Vancouver]

Nicely done! The extra backing may not be necessary but cannot hurt. A good idea to wait til you have a few bolts in before drilling for the front mounts.

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Farrell In Vancouver

Nicely done! The extra backing may not be necessary but cannot hurt. A good idea to wait til you have a few bolts in before drilling for the front mounts.

Agreed, I would put the reinforcement in. I would also mount the cab with all the ford made holes to align it then drill holes for the mounts you had to make to make sure its aligned correctly.

Its one of those things that once its painted and if you clean up your welds afterwards and put some paint on it noone will notice.

[RockHillWill]

You might give some consideration to mounting the radiator, shell and hood, prior to spending much time with only the door/cab in place.

[Brace Bailey]

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Thanks guys.
I put the cab on the frame about an hour ago. Will mark the front holes from inside the frame - so I know where to drill.

I'm thinking about mounting the radiator and hood too. AND.. Should I have the front fenders on before all this?

Im still wondering what the gap should be on the back edge of the Cab to the frame? 1/4" ? 1/8" or rubbing the welting.
Anybody noticed? Also have the splash panel between the cab and bed now.
That shouldn't make a difference.

I appreciate your thoughts on the extra brackets. I just don't want the next owner (or two or three) to have to fix them again.

More Pictures soon.

[1955cj5]

Now my pickup is an early 29...but maybe you can use this picture to compare if others respond..

That is a 1/4" drive extension....the rubber pad is about 1/8"..it came with the body block..that is the rear driver's side body block..

Randy

[Brace Bailey]

Thanks Randy. So.. looks like 1/4 gap between frame and the rear of the cab.
I appreciate you taking the picture, and the explanation.

[1955cj5]

You bet...I hope it helps...

[Mikeinnj]

Did you get my private message?

[Dave in MD]

Brace,
I think the pickup, coupe and roadster bodies are fairly flexible and you may be able to pull down as needed to get the door to align. Ford used reinforced rubber pads initially. These are more rigid that the repro pads. Is your frame straight as most are bent.
Dave

[Larry Jenkins]

Originally Posted by Dave in MD

Brace,
I think the pickup, coupe and roadster bodies are fairly flexible and you may be able to pull down as needed to get the door to align. Ford used reinforced rubber pads initially. These are more rigid that the repro pads. Is your frame straight as most are bent.
Dave

Using a strong string, place and clamp one end of one string on the left rear and stretch it to the right front Clamp in place. Repeat for the right rear/left front.

Make sure each string lays on the high spots on both sided of the rails. This will, also tell you how "square" the frame is.

(Make sure the strings are heavier weight than normal to prevent breaking them while tightening.)

Measure any "drops" in the rail sections. If you do find some "drooping" post your findings in the Ford Barn.., A few of our regulars know how to fix the sags. I don't.

In your case, Brace do the string thing along the length of both rails.

[Brace Bailey]

sent a PM back. can't seem to attach pictures, so here goes....

sorry the 3rd picture flipped. I need to hold my I-phone in landscape, or they
flip on me. Lord knows us old timers don't need to be tilting our necks....


I attached the back straps to the seat frame, ran the front ones in front of the upper gas tank mount, and back out and up to the top hinge.
I was able to tilt the cab firewall up high enough to clear the steering wheel,
then move it up and back and miss the clutch pedal & column at the floor board.

same procedure to remove.

[RockHillWill]

Just another errant thought. You will never be done making adjustments until such time that the body, radiator, shell and complete hood parts are in place. If you do all this and the motor/transmission is not installed at the time, you will have to do it all over because the weight that is added between the front and rear spring mounts will create a 'cantenary' sag, due to the weight added to the unsupported section of the frame.

I am quite comfortable regarding these thoughts, and if you want to PM me with your phone number, I will be glad to discuss this further with you. Here is a link to some related information. Click on it and then page down. You will see two pickups that have been restored, either one should be of some help to you.

http://www.mantiquesresto.com/Projects/Projects2.html

[Brace Bailey]

Thanks RockHillWill. The drive train is complete and Installed. I put a straight edge (50" long) along the frame from the front cab mount hole on past the rear hole. Frame was depressed less than 1/16" at the center - both sides the same. Not bad in my opinion.
I've mounted the radiator and shell, hooked up the radiator support rods. Had to remove the cab again to drill the front holes. I didn't have a good measurement on the width of the front holes - looks like 27 1/4" . I may have to re drill the holes In my new front supports. I am still affraid that the rear cab patch panel is welded in too low - causing me to put the rear blocks in, plus three 1/8" rubber spacers. Then it barely clears the frame at the rear of the cab. One question - when I put the cab back on again, do I need the gas tank installed to check aligment of the hood? I haven't purchased the cowl or radiator shell welting either.
I'm assuming that installing the hood at this point will tell me if it is "level" with the radiator, by checking the front and rear of the side curtains.

[Larry Jenkins]

The rear of the top two hood sections rest on the top front of the gas tank.

Even though your radiator looks nice from the outside, have it cleaned out and flow tested before final installation. Same with the gas tank.

[Bob C]

You need to check the frame for sag with a string from front to back.

Bob

[Big hammer]

I agree and 1/16 will grow!