hi, new here with question before i buy. 31 fordor briggs body

[Bob C]

Wood what wood

Bob

[DaWizard]

Always want to see pictures.

[lasherspirit]

ok everyone here are the pics I was able to get before it got dark, as promised. love it or hate it....personally it does't bother me a bit, and its perfectly savable, if I can get it for what I have been getting things for so far. after everyone sees all their responses and have seen these pics let me know if any of you want me to post pics of the 2 I have already brought home from here, cause neither are a Model A and I have been in other forums before that they did not want any other kind of car or whatever posted if it wasn't what the forum was created for. so just let me know on those and if it is allowed

[lasherspirit]

Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin

Not to rub it in with living under our Modern 2016 Dictatorship, but:

Besides Model A body wood & parts cost, maybe also check with Federal/State Environmentalist prior to cutting this tree.

This car may be sitting there because the Government Fine for cutting this protected tree species is more expensive than the car's asking price.

Nothing like a thorough investigation to avoid surprises.

LOL....not a problem. the entire estate has already been taking care of through Probate, everything approved to sell off, all the ones with titles already been signed off on by Probate and DMV, sent off and came back reissued in sons name ready to sign over to whoever buys. Its all GOOD

[H. L. Chauvin]

Admire your positive attitude ..... so few things are impossible once our minds are made up.

Heard where Edison once said he was never interested in going to college because college professors could not teach him what he wanted to know ... besides, not one could tell him how to make a light bulb.

Cut the tree!

[lasherspirit]

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Ok, DaWizard said post the other ones so here's is the 24 model T roadster I got, and also 2 Model A truck beds you can see behind it on the trailer. Reason I got this one is cuase I already had a really good 25 Model T, which is the last pic, that I needed let's just say a few critical things!

[lasherspirit]

Ok and here is the one I brought home today from there. It's a 1938 Oldsmobile F 37

[DaWizard]

Well, that Model A sure looks like a straight firewall '31 town sedan to me.

And yes, I agree, the T needs a few essential parts. I can't believe that windshield looks intact!

It sure is a shame all these cars were left out to return to the earth they came from, even that '39 Chevy in the background. *sadly shakes head*

[Terry, NJ]

I see that you're falling in love with it! OK! IO have a 30, 155 Briggs Town Sedan, almost the same thing. The wood inside can be expensive, but you can shave the costs somewhat. All my seat wood I did myself and the body wood. I recommend being a machinist or being a real close woodworker. You're not going to bang good usable parts out with a skill saw. Henry Ford's original prints called for plus or minus .010. I bought the sills (Bottom Rails) and the topwood from Classic wood in N.C., My costs were around $1800, then! It's more now. If it's out in the trees, it probably needs some welding. If you don't own a MIG welder, figure $200 for a small one (110V with Gas, argon/CO2) That estimate is high and easy to beat. You can follow my restoration by going to my profile and go in the album "My A" The pictures are scrambled somewhat, but it covers from start to the present. And it's not done. But I do have the body back on the chassis and it runs. Any help I can give, just ask.
Terry

[MAG]

Top Molding in Pic 4 looks like the molding used on bodies prior to May 31.
A rubber insert was used from May 31 on.

[lasherspirit]

Originally Posted by forever4

How do you know it is 1931, not 1930?

Also, does it have the gas tank valve under the hood, or inside, under the tank?
Thanks

ok don't know on speedometer, I looked up the two style firewalls and if I'm seeing right, what I can see of it, I think it is recessed because the flat wall has raised ridges that run top to bottom on each side, one horizontal connecting those two and two that start at middle and run downward at opposite angles. and on the recessed wall it does not have the raised ridge running top to bottom on the side the valve would be and tear drop indent. attaching a blowed up view of one of the pics and to me it does don't look to have the raised ridge running top to bottom there. you can see the frame resting on the cement block, just doesn't have the wheels or hub assemblies. and didn't look at the running boards that close other than I thought the where there. it will be next saterday before I can go out there again and load another weather permitting and ill make sure to get a lot of pics

[C26Pinelake]

You seem to have your mind made up to buy. Obviously you are looking for hot rod material and at the most that's what you have. If you pay over $50 dollars you got taken for a ride. This car looks like if should be sold by the pound. It hardly even qualifies as yard art. Good luck and let me assure you that you will need all the luck and money you can get your hands on. This car is a total disaster! Wayne

[lasherspirit]

Originally Posted by DaWizard

Well, that Model A sure looks like a straight firewall '31 town sedan to me.

And yes, I agree, the T needs a few essential parts. I can't believe that windshield looks intact!

It sure is a shame all these cars were left out to return to the earth they came from, even that '39 Chevy in the background. *sadly shakes head*

two things: which T are you saying needs essential parts? cause if you are referring to the black one on wheels that's the one I already had and that is sitting at my place. It is in almost perfect condition, it does have the hood shroud, full running boards and came with 2 complete fully intact turtle decks. and yes the glass windshield on the black one on wheels is completely intact, the one that was showed in the woods and then on trailer I bought and when I said it had something essential for my nearly perfect one, I meant it only has one thing I needed for my black one, and it isn't even a part on the thing. and so the only thing I can figure your talking about a 39 in the background is actually my once again complete 1938 chevy sedan sitting back behind my black model T. none of my stuff is sitting going back to the ground. those are ones I saved, the pics where the stuff is sitting in woods is where I'm now pulling those out of

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Terry, NJ

I see that you're falling in love with it! OK! IO have a 30, 155 Briggs Town Sedan, almost the same thing. The wood inside can be expensive, but you can shave the costs somewhat. All my seat wood I did myself and the body wood. I recommend being a machinist or being a real close woodworker. You're not going to bang good usable parts out with a skill saw. Henry Ford's original prints called for plus or minus .010. I bought the sills (Bottom Rails) and the topwood from Classic wood in N.C., My costs were around $1800, then! It's more now. If it's out in the trees, it probably needs some welding. If you don't own a MIG welder, figure $200 for a small one (110V with Gas, argon/CO2) That estimate is high and easy to beat. You can follow my restoration by going to my profile and go in the album "My A" The pictures are scrambled somewhat, but it covers from start to the present. And it's not done. But I do have the body back on the chassis and it runs. Any help I can give, just ask.
Terry

Post #17. If he builds the car it will be modified with no wood all steel. It will not look like our cars.... he pretty much knows what he is getting into.

[lasherspirit]

Originally Posted by Terry, NJ

I see that you're falling in love with it! OK! IO have a 30, 155 Briggs Town Sedan, almost the same thing. The wood inside can be expensive, but you can shave the costs somewhat. All my seat wood I did myself and the body wood. I recommend being a machinist or being a real close woodworker. You're not going to bang good usable parts out with a skill saw. Henry Ford's original prints called for plus or minus .010. I bought the sills (Bottom Rails) and the topwood from Classic wood in N.C., My costs were around $1800, then! It's more now. If it's out in the trees, it probably needs some welding. If you don't own a MIG welder, figure $200 for a small one (110V with Gas, argon/CO2) That estimate is high and easy to beat. You can follow my restoration by going to my profile and go in the album "My A" The pictures are scrambled somewhat, but it covers from start to the present. And it's not done. But I do have the body back on the chassis and it runs. Any help I can give, just ask.
Terry

Well actually if I do end up getting it, like I said in some previous responses I may be just getting it to save it and then later on resell it. Id by some chance I get the others done that I actually want for my self and do decide to do something with it ill probably end up making a Rat Rod out of it, and wont me any wood in it. ill do all bracing with square or round metal tubing and sheet metal inner wall skins. welding aint nothing for me, I used to weld Rail Road Cars for a company called ARI. and once my plan all comes to together and I can get my big shop built the welder I'm going with will be this
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[Bob C]

This is an indented firewall with the gas valve in the engine compartment.

Bob

[lasherspirit]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

Post #17. If he builds the car it will be modified with no wood all steel. It will not look like our cars.... he pretty much knows what he is getting into.

correct mitch//pa, I love all you guys cars, being original they look great, but this car is not one to go that route with. but it is still well worth saving and building one mean Rat out of it and getting it back on the road someday. She may get a heart transplant with something like a twin turbo 4BT or 6BT diesel to provide her hellfire. but least she wont go to the crusher

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by forever4

Actually, from your latest pics, it is a flat firewall, not an indented. This is what I expected. The gas valve is inside the car, under the tank.

It could be anything from 1930 through early 1931, based on what we see right now.

Check for round or oval speedo, and 1 or 2 piece running board splash aprons for further timing.

Also, what is that body number? I can't read the last digits?

Not another thread on timing!

[lasherspirit]

Originally Posted by Bob C

This is an indented firewall with the gas valve in the engine compartment.

Bob

ok, thanks. when I go back out there next sat ill get lots of pics, ones of inside dash the firewall there and the motor

[lasherspirit]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Not another thread on timing!

shows to be 164-19012