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Old 11-26-2016, 04:52 PM   #21
Tom Wesenberg
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Originally Posted by PetefromTexas View Post
I totally get that and respect what you guys have here. I'm not posting a hot rod build thread or trying to make this forum something it's not. I'm interested in information not readily available on the hot rod forums on restoring a Model A chassis and motor. I'm restoring this chassis using a stock motor. Minus the mention of the future body that's planned for this build I believe I'm well within the rules of the forum.


I really didn't expect this from fellow automotive enthusiasts.
Lots of good information to be gained here for that, so welcome and ask away.

It's just when people start asking about chopping this and that is what this site isn't meant to handle. You should get lots of help in building the stock frame and drivetrain.
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Old 11-26-2016, 05:41 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg View Post
Lots of good information to be gained here for that, so welcome and ask away.

It's just when people start asking about chopping this and that is what this site isn't meant to handle. You should get lots of help in building the stock frame and drivetrain.
Thank you sir.
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Old 11-26-2016, 06:05 PM   #23
Art Newland
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Hey Pete, you should've said you were building a "speedster"... Apearently those are OK. I for one look forward to reading about your build.
You could keep it "stock" with insert bearings, counter-balanced crank, touring cam, aluminum timing gears, adjustable lifters, over-size valves, Webber down-draft, split exhaust, electronic ignition, mechanical advance, hydraulic brakes, Mitchel syncro transmission and over-drive, full oil pressure, alternator, halogen head lights, LED tail/brake lights...
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Old 11-26-2016, 11:44 PM   #24
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check compression, do head gasket. Dont over tourqe anything. Replace the head studs. 50 ft lbs 100 will break. The set for 20$ will save you from hours of broken bolt extraction. Copper manifold gaskets and an insert pipe for exit side of manifold. grease your water pump before tightening if it leaks. autolite sells a 2 dollar plug at most major auto parts in the right heat range. champion has better plugs some cost 10 some 30. a nurex timeing wrench isnt needed but is a 10$ lesson worth its 10$ (mine runs best 5-10 degrees advanced from nurex recommended). I have had my car about a year and I would call it a resto mod. I try to keep an original appearance but my wiring is modern plastic coated and i have a 10 spot fuse box. i use model a accurate gaskets because the copper over stos is the best in my opinion. My interior isnt accurate its just black instead of three shades of cream(and didnt cost 2000). My paint isnt quite a stock arangment. But the car was given to me because my grandpa believed i would finish it someday and not let it turn to dust or sell it off. It had 60000 or 160000 miles before the speedo broke. and dents in every panel but Betsy looks pretty good from a few feet off now.
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Old 11-27-2016, 12:28 AM   #25
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I'm mainly here to get info on the chassis and motor restoration for this build as they will be mostly stock.
This is the place to do that.
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Old 11-27-2016, 01:00 AM   #26
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Pete, You might find this interesting;
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File Type: jpg car.jpg (62.9 KB, 45 views)
File Type: jpg engine.jpg (69.2 KB, 42 views)
File Type: jpg head.jpg (68.0 KB, 40 views)
File Type: jpg intake.jpg (47.6 KB, 36 views)
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Old 11-27-2016, 01:33 AM   #27
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Default Re: New guy

Quote:
Originally Posted by mike657894 View Post
check compression, do head gasket. Dont over tourqe anything. Replace the head studs. 50 ft lbs 100 will break. The set for 20$ will save you from hours of broken bolt extraction. Copper manifold gaskets and an insert pipe for exit side of manifold. grease your water pump before tightening if it leaks. autolite sells a 2 dollar plug at most major auto parts in the right heat range. champion has better plugs some cost 10 some 30. a nurex timeing wrench isnt needed but is a 10$ lesson worth its 10$ (mine runs best 5-10 degrees advanced from nurex recommended). I have had my car about a year and I would call it a resto mod. I try to keep an original appearance but my wiring is modern plastic coated and i have a 10 spot fuse box. i use model a accurate gaskets because the copper over stos is the best in my opinion. My interior isnt accurate its just black instead of three shades of cream(and didnt cost 2000). My paint isnt quite a stock arangment. But the car was given to me because my grandpa believed i would finish it someday and not let it turn to dust or sell it off. It had 60000 or 160000 miles before the speedo broke. and dents in every panel but Betsy looks pretty good from a few feet off now.
Nice looking car, and nice color choice. Looks like you are lucky enough to live in the country, and east of the Mississippi. Seems east of the river most barns and sheds are board and batten, but for some reason that's rare west of the river.
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Old 11-27-2016, 03:41 AM   #28
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From an ardent purist who has spent his entire life nauseated by the sight of a butchered up stock production vintage/antique car (of any make). Yes, I even have trouble with inserted bearings and repro. parts! I believe its the original Ford Model A motoring experience and the pride we have keeping our cars running and on the road that so many of us love. With that said, you will not find a better resource for build information on your chassis than right here on Fordbarn. Have fun with your restoration and hopefully someday you will decide, "okay, that was fun!" and find a "A" body and put another fantastic Ford Model A back on the road for all to see and be reminded of their significant place in motoring history. End of pontification for now - thanks for reading.
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Old 11-27-2016, 06:59 AM   #29
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Just do your thing.

Talent is enjoyed hear and I am sure you'll get help
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Old 11-27-2016, 08:51 AM   #30
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Hi neighbor. 14 miles down the road in Van. Like the idea of your project. Had a speedster once sold it 6 months ago and have the itch to build another. call sometimes and we can get together.
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Old 11-27-2016, 09:40 AM   #31
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Hi neighbor. 14 miles down the road in Van. Like the idea of your project. Had a speedster once sold it 6 months ago and have the itch to build another. call sometimes and we can get together.
Hey Ken. I think I talked to you a few years ago when I was restoring a 30 Coupe. TJ Wilson gave me your number. Unfortunately I don't have it anymore.
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Old 11-27-2016, 09:48 AM   #32
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Six on stars and 2 fives, what does that tell you ? This crowd in general wants little to do with any type of hot rod. The previous statement posted from Ryan shows we have the support of the owner. Wayne
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Old 11-27-2016, 09:50 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by 1930marie View Post
From an ardent purist who has spent his entire life nauseated by the sight of a butchered up stock production vintage/antique car (of any make). Yes, I even have trouble with inserted bearings and repro. parts! I believe its the original Ford Model A motoring experience and the pride we have keeping our cars running and on the road that so many of us love. With that said, you will not find a better resource for build information on your chassis than right here on Fordbarn. Have fun with your restoration and hopefully someday you will decide, "okay, that was fun!" and find a "A" body and put another fantastic Ford Model A back on the road for all to see and be reminded of their significant place in motoring history. End of pontification for now - thanks for reading.
Thank you sir. I've restored quite a few cars to factory spec in my career. Some have gone to Pebble Beach and Amelia Island concourse and won top honors. I love doing concourse correct restorations. One day I want to do another full factory correct restoration on another Model A. Until then this will be a fun little car to add to my stable.
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