Rear Crossmember/Spring ??

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by 1955cj5

The square hole in my cross-member is squared with the sides of the crossmember, so no 45° ...i wonder if that was a change along the line somewhere?

NO, I said MY bolt head is wrong and needs to be turned 45*, so it will be square to the spring sides and fit the square hole in the crossmember.

[1955cj5]

OK..guess I misunderstood...your's needs to be turned..not mine....

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by 1955cj5

OK..guess I misunderstood...your's needs to be turned..not mine....

Yep, BTW, I like spring covers and grease and graphite between the leaves.
I also put grease on top of the top leaf to prevent squeaks and to make it slide into place easier. I usually have to slide it a little to get the bolt head to drop into the hole.

[Bob C]

Looks like they had to put the center plate in the bed with the flange on top
of the wood instead of on the bottom because of all the mess with the cross member.

Bob

[1955cj5]

Yes, that is right Bob....I thing the old crossmemeber has a greater arch to it as well....I should hold the new up to the old and see what i learn...

[1955cj5]

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Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Here's 3 pictures of my spare 8 leaf spring and rear end. Notice the bottom 4 leaves are thicker than the top 4. Notice the top leaf has beveled sides so it fits flush to the crossmember. Also notice the square head on the bolt needs to be turned 45* so it fits the square hole in the crossmember.

I measured the length be running my thin pocket tape across the top of the stack, but on the side of the center bolt.

1. 13 1/4"
2. 18 3/4"
3. 26 1/4"
4. 31"
5. 37"
6. 43 3/4"
7. 50 5/8"
8. Mainleaf

The stack is 2" thick.

So, I completely disassembled my spring pack to more accurately measure the leaves...

1. 13"..but a portion is missing..
2. 15 13/16"
3. 18 1/2"
4. 22"
5. 25 7/8"
6. 30 1/4"
7. 33 3/8"
8. 36"
9. 39 3/8"
10. 42 7/8"
11. 46 1/2"
12. 49 3/4"
13. 52 1/4" end to end

SO:

1
3
5
6
8
10
12
13

Gives me 8 leaves, very close to Tom's..

[Rowdy]

I have a 130-A and will be putting an 8 leaf in it. I sure can not think anyone would want to use the optional 13 leaf in a restoration. Just my opinion Rod

[glenn in camino]

Pickups usually have a 10 leaf rear spring to handle the weight of a load. Look in the service bulletins for pictures and info re. springs.

[1955cj5]

Pictures of the mock-up....I think I'll clean it up, paint and lube it and install....

[rocket1]

I just did the rear spring on my ccpu,the lower plates for the u bolts were also an off thickness,I had to grind a little meat off for the existing u bolts to fit.I would grind off the ridges on the leaves and taper the underside of the leaves and grease it up before you reinstall it.PS be carefull with that spring it could be deadly!

[1955cj5]

The rear spring looks pretty good..I've cleaned it and I bought some spray graphite lube at the John Deere tractor supply store.

I finally got the rear crossmember out...tough work but it's done.

Now to practice setting a few rivets on the old piece and then go for it..

You can see how the old crossmember was bent..

[1955cj5]

New original crossmember is in place. Riveting is fun, but I never want to do it again, unless the frame is bare and easily flipped.

20/20 hindsight tells me next time, buy a crossmember with the gusset bracing still attached. Gusset to frame requires fewer rivets and they are much easier to access....

Spring is ready. When I get the banjo sealed up I'll put it all back together....

[Tom Wesenberg]

Looks nice and a big improvement. Is the top leaf the correct short one with beveled sides? If not (it looks like leaf #2 in your picture), then I'd add it. The bevel is needed to fit the curve in the crossmember.

[Fordors]

Or you could not remove the center bolt, grind the chamfer onto the top leaf as needed and touch up the paint.

[1955cj5]

The sides are beveled, though it doesn't look it in the picture...

The original top beveled leaf was broken on one end, so I used the second leaf and cut it to size, then beveled the ends and the top sides, and test fit it in the crossmember to be sure.

John Deere spray Graphite Lubricant is between all leaves...

I hope it improves the lean and it can't help but improve the ride!

[wrndln]

I agree with Tom and Fordors that he top leaf needs to be significantly chamfered on both sides. If not the clamps will not securely hold the spring in place. Also make sure the square spring bolt head drops into the square hole in the crossmember. Sometimes it is hard to do, but with the bed off, you can easily see the bolt head is in the right place. It looks like you are doing a good job.
Rusty Nelson

[1955cj5]

Thanks Rusty I'll be sure and get a good fit....and maybe I'll just take my side grinder to that top leaf and make double sure it'll seat..!

[1955cj5]

The spring is installed and everything is back together and I've been around the block a few times...

Much softer ride of course.....

The stance of the pickup will take a little getting used to.....pickups are supposed to be high in the back unless loaded....this sits pretty flat now....it might be that the old leaves were just worn out and a new spring pack is needed, or maybe I'd just prefer a 10 leaf...but a new 8 might be just right...hmmmm...It won't get driven much this winter and maybe spring will bring a new pack...

But it sure looks neater back there!

[JonC]

Nice job, looks very good. One thing I have learned on these springs when I have a lean I take the springs apart and trace the spring with chalk on the garage floor, then flip the spring over and see if it is the same, I have found many times the spring leaf is sagged on one side, and that causes the lean.

[Tom Wesenberg]

It sure looks nice now. That old one was the worst mess I've seen for a patch job.