Is ther an easy way to install shims on rear axle/hub.

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by George Miller

I would be careful using thread chasers on the axle thread. That thread is not your hard ware store class fit. A better way is turn the castle nut on back words, and turn it on all the way.

George, sorry but are you saying to just put the nut on backward and then screw it on all the way without the hub on to clean up the threads?

[Joe K]

And a further revelation on my part - the fasteners you get at Home Depot that are not in a blister-pac and are typically stencilled with a "code" (i.e. B24) are assumed to be Grade 2 - but no information from Home Depot assures they are even built to this standard.

As you might expect from items bought offshore - and sold at on-shore prices.

Again, caviet emptor. The incremental cost of quality is small - but can save SO many expensive headaches later.

Joe K

[Bruce of MN]

Thread files are handy for cleaning up threads. Here is one: http://www.sears.com/lang-tools-lang...-SPM7629755702

[George Miller]

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

George, sorry but are you saying to just put the nut on backward and then screw it on all the way without the hub on to clean up the threads?

Yes that will work with out removing to much metal. If you use a die it will remove a lot of metal from the damaged thread.

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by Bruce of MN

Thread files are handy for cleaning up threads. Here is one: http://www.sears.com/lang-tools-lang...-SPM7629755702

Bruce, I assume an instruction sheet comes with this tool, at least I hope so for me knowing nothing about this sort of tool. Thanks for the info. I may have to try it.

[Charles Coe]

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I would try George's suggestion of putting the nut on backwards first before filing on the threads.

[JBill]

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

Bob, yes they are not very good. I will try another picture in the next day or so. I was thinking I would wait until the new nuts come in to see how they do on the axle. I was thinking that I needed to borrow one of those thread cutting things (I don't know my tool names) and see if I could maybe "true" the threads up a bit. What do you think of that idea? Would it work or do more harm? Maybe I am in for another axle-hate that possibility.

Do I recall an exchange of posts where rethreading the end of the axle for a slightly smaller nut is discussed? Or am I just dreaming, and that's a really bad idea?

[john in illinois]

+1 for stock nuts. The vendor nuts are not only grade 2 ,but they also have a very loose thread fit. They will wobble on the axle threads. Seek out original Ford nuts or grade 8.

Grade 8 have to buy 25. http://www.asmc.net/5-8-18-grade-8-s...f-black-pk-25/

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by JBill

Do I recall an exchange of posts where rethreading the end of the axle for a slightly smaller nut is discussed? Or am I just dreaming, and that's a really bad idea?

You do recall correctly.

As to ideas, it is an idea. And one which has supporters on both sides of the issue.

If there are no other issues present - i.e. a call for shims, or a damaged keyway, or obvious sign of the hub turning and galling the taper, I would say it is possible. Others have pointed out that the taper is "self locking" - which it is - but one has to achieve a certain stretch of the hub over the taper to achieve the lock. And the hub bolt is the mechanism to achieve that stretch.

And without the lock you're cruising for trouble.

Use of shim IMHO makes achieving that lock harder. Thus my playing card analogy of the last thread discussion.

But if there appear no other issues - give it a try.

I have machined down and rethreaded the axle to the next smaller size successfully. But a later rebuild (and conversion to 3.54 gears in the process) resulted in my reversion to a good used axle. Why not? I wanted to do it "right." And a total tear down was the opportunity. The cut down thread axle remains in my garage waiting for the day I rebuild by weld and re-machine.

But that axle appears good in all other respects, doesn't have issue with seating requiring a shim (or it didn't then) and appears a successful axle otherwise.

So you pays your money (or keep it in your pocket) and you takes your chances.

Joe K

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by Bob C

How about a better picture of the threads, the ones in
your first picture don't look very good but it could be the
picture.

Bob

Bob here are some better pictures of the threads.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by charles coe

i would try george's suggestion of putting the nut on backwards first before filing on the threads.

x2

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by Charles Coe

I would try George's suggestion of putting the nut on backwards first before filing on the threads.

Thanks all you guys for this suggestion. As soon as I get my nuts(axle) in the mail I will give it a try.

Noticed I had a hard time with the word "there" above.

[Bruce of MN]

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

Bruce, I assume an instruction sheet comes with this tool, at least I hope so for me knowing nothing about this sort of tool. Thanks for the info. I may have to try it.

You just stroke it over the male threads at a slight angle all around the item. They are to clean up existing threads, not make new ones, and are pretty much self-guiding.

[Royce P]

Aircraft nuts AN310-10 are better than any of the other options mentioned. Cost is $3.10 each. Click here:
http://aircraftproducts.wicksaircraf...n310-/an310-10?

[Marco Tahtaras]

There have been several IMPORTANT points made but I thought I'd assemble them all in one post.

1. Definitely use the castle nut as a 'thread chaser' by installing it backward. If it begins to snug up then tighten in small increments (1/8 turn or less) and back it off, then go another increment.

2. Unless there is a clear statement as to how the nuts you purchased were made then they WILL be junk and exacerbate your problem. If there is even the slightest wobble of the nut on the axle DO NUT USE!

3. Th original nuts had two important advantages. They were higher thread class (tighter tolerance, smaller ID) than you will commonly find so they capture the axle threads deeper. Again, no hint of a wobble! The other advantage is they were cyanide hardened. If you run a file over corner of the nut the file will NOT bite. It may shine it slightly. When you get the new nuts try that with a file and most likely the file will drag and remove some material instead of just gliding over the surface. JUNK!

If the new nuts fail either of those tests (will likely fail both) then stop! Check with local guys and see if you can hustle up a good original. If that fails maybe Steve @ Bert's can come up with something for you.

[Fred K-OR]

Thanks Marco, I did purchase the nuts from Steve. But I will have to check them out because I think he may have sent new ones.

[Mitch//pa]

this thread chaser is a tool that i have in my arenal... its adjustable to just clean up old threads without removing alot of metal....sort of like using a thread file but much easier and more exact..
i also have used my spindle rethread kit with good success

[larrys40]

Fred,
Personally I like the Thread Chasers ( type that look like a nut but aren't). I also have a couple of clamp on thread chaser tools that were specifically used for axles to pull and clean damaged threads back to shape as opposed to using a "die" which cuts threads. Do not use a die, only a thread chaser or split thread restorer.

In my experience ( and I have done a ton of rear axles and solved problems I am not a fan of using axle nuts that may have damage on them threaded backwards on the axle. You have a greater potential of damage if there is a problem than you do with the thread chaser. I would opt for cleaning the threads first with a brass type small hand brush and then use the thread chaser gently on the axle, and then use a new hardened nut. As said if there is any rock or movement on the nut the problem will have to be rectified with diagnosis as to if it's a nut issue or axle thread issue. This is one area that there is imperative safety in. If you are not sure get someone in your area to assist you who is schooled at rear axles.

I think we all have the same general idea... I'm just for using the proper tool to get the threads back to clean and straight as opposed to potentially using a nut that can have issues. Also, the thread restorers have open areas for the dirt/debris to pull to and a nut does not. It is full encompassing andf gives no where for the dirt to go but behind the threads.
Just my experience...
Larry Shepard

[Mitch//pa]

agree with Larry

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by larrys40

Fred,
Personally I like the Thread Chasers ( type that look like a nut but aren't). I also have a couple of clamp on thread chaser tools that were specifically used for axles to pull and clean damaged threads back to shape as opposed to using a "die" which cuts threads. Do not use a die, only a thread chaser or split thread restorer.

In my experience ( and I have done a ton of rear axles and solved problems I am not a fan of using axle nuts that may have damage on them threaded backwards on the axle. You have a greater potential of damage if there is a problem than you do with the thread chaser. I would opt for cleaning the threads first with a brass type small hand brush and then use the thread chaser gently on the axle, and then use a new hardened nut. As said if there is any rock or movement on the nut the problem will have to be rectified with diagnosis as to if it's a nut issue or axle thread issue. This is one area that there is imperative safety in. If you are not sure get someone in your area to assist you who is schooled at rear axles.

I think we all have the same general idea... I'm just for using the proper tool to get the threads back to clean and straight as opposed to potentially using a nut that can have issues. Also, the thread restorers have open areas for the dirt/debris to pull to and a nut does not. It is full encompassing andf gives no where for the dirt to go but behind the threads.
Just my experience...
Larry Shepard

Larry/Mitch, are these thread chasers something a person can buy from a parts house or one of the Model A vendors? They are something I have never used so need some help on how to find them.