cleaning gas tanks

[Jason in TX]

Originally Posted by Russ/40

Originally, these tanks were bare steel inside, no special liner or coating.

My cabriolet tank appears to have been galvenized inside. Not sure if that was done at the factory, but I do know that the last time it was on the road before I had it was in 1962. And it's shiney new looking inside I've heard others with the same report that they had a galvanized tank, also.

[Craig Lewis]

Model A tanks were actually "terne plated" inside and out at the factory. This is a lead/ tin sacrificial coating.
It normally will be consumed on the inside of these tanks after many years of moisture and abuse.
Below is an early 31 tank I recently purchased. You can plainly see the raw gray terne where the painter never reached between firewall & tank.
I sanded it lightly and sure enough it powders off like lead.

Terne is an authentic plating option for the generator cutout & oil filler cap.

[Russ/40]

Originally Posted by Craig Lewis

Model A tanks were actually "terne plated" inside and out at the factory. This is a lead/ tin sacrificial coating.
It normally will be consumed on the inside of these tanks after many years of moisture and abuse.
Below is an early 31 tank I recently purchased. You can plainly see the raw gray terne where the painter never reached between firewall & tank.
I sanded it lightly and sure enough it powders off like lead.

Terne is an authentic plating option for the generator cutout & oil filler cap.

Didn't know that, thanks.... learn somthin new every day.

[jaguar6165]

If you dont want to spend a lot of money i would definitely use the por15. I did some looking and the one thing everyone said was dont use the cream sealers because the have a tendency to peel off inside the tank. The one draw back to having the tank dipped is that it removes all paint and i have a bit of original paint left on the tank that is still in great condition so i wanted to keep it that way.

[Colorado Greg]

I just got done cleaning and sealing my tank and it turned out great! I know the best way is to have the tank boiled out before sealing it but my car is painted and I wanted to save the paint.

I hung the tank from the rafters with straps and rope that would allow me to roll the tank to different positions and then shake it side to side. I plugged the fuel outlet with a brass plug, gas gauge hole with a thick rubber gasket behind the big nut only and used an old gas cap to seal the opening. I put in a shitful of nuts and bolts, the smaller the better to get around the baffles. First I put in a quart of acetone, sealed it and shook and rolled the tank for 1/2 a day. I then drained out the acetone and put in 2 gallons of EvapoRust for 4-5 days, shaking and rolling the tank every chance I could. Then one last rinse with acetone. It took me awhile to get all of the nuts and bolts out, but I finally got them all out.

I then used the Caswell's, Phenol Novolac, Gas Tank sealer. It is a 2 part epoxy and will cover/encapsulate and rust deposits left in the tank. Caswell is the only company I found that gave directions for re-doing other companies failed sealants. This was not the cheapest alternative but I feel it did a very good job. http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm

I have only put 5 gallons of gas in this tank so far but am very confident in my decision to use this cleaning method and sealer. Time will tell though.

[thebanjoman]

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Originally Posted by wingnut

Anyone have experience cleaning a gas tank?
I would like to clean mine,then seal it.
I have heard muritac acid works, does it ? or is that too strong??

I just reread this thread as the gas tank is the next on my list.

The question about Muriatic acid was never answered but I've read a few threads on the net about other tanks being cleaned with it.

When the car was parked in '68 all the gas was drained from the tank and the valve closed and the gas cap securely.

I have not opened the tank yet so don't know what I would find inside but Im hoping that it won't be too bad and it can be cleaned and sealed without a lot of effort.

Hoping my USB webcam will be small enough to stick inside to see what I am up against. Won't see past the baffles but I should get an idea of what is inside.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by thebanjoman

Hoping my USB webcam will be small enough to stick inside to see what I am up against. Won't see past the baffles but I should get an idea of what is inside.

My experiences have always been that it is always worse behind the baffles, and the major areas of rust is in the top and backside of the baffle itself.

.

[rotorwrench]

Muratic acid is basically hydrochoric acid. The problem with sulphuric and hydrochloric acids as a rust remover is that they will take it off fine but it will rust back up before the metal has a chance to even dry out and that is even before you put alchohol in to aid in the dry out. Phosphoric acid will leave a phosphate converted outer coating that will resist iron oxide from building back as it dries out but it does leave other residues as well so it's not perfect. It would be the best acidic solution to use in this type of rust removal.

Kerby

[Jason in TX]

From a quick Google search using that info you posted Curt, It sounds like the company is called "Quick Strip"

Quick Strip
4600 55th Ave W
Muscatine, IA 52761-1235

Get Directions

(563) 262-8538

[Curt Campbell]

The company is located in Muscatine, IA. I cannot recall the name of it but will try and find my receipt and post the address and etc. It is located off highway 61 on the south side of Muscatine, in an industrial park back in behind the Bandag buildings. When I was there, they were just finishing the stripping of a complete 57 body. There are pros and cons to body.

[Curt Campbell]

Dang, my computer didnt show I posted....so I did again! Must be OLD age...sorry for the double posting

[Curt Campbell]

Quick Strip doesnt ring a bell with me....but the location is about correct. Maybe they changed hands by now and have a new name.