Go Back   The Ford Barn > General Discussion > Model A (1928-31)

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-28-2013, 08:32 AM   #21
john in illinois
Senior Member
 
john in illinois's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,220
Default Re: Failing Headgaskets

I have an AER engine with Snyder 5.5 and had nothing but problems with the silicone gaskets. I switched to a Best Gasket Graphtite sprayed with copper coat and it has been trouble free for probably 15,000 miles.

I also had to surface the head the first time I took it off. Also as mentioned start the engine and idle until hot and retorque when it cools. Don't drive it before the first retorque.

John
john in illinois is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2013, 08:36 AM   #22
Tom Wesenberg
Senior Member
 
Tom Wesenberg's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
Default Re: Failing Headgaskets

I'm with Greg on the gasket. I only use the copper gasket sprayed with Copper Coat on both sides. Larry B. also recommends the copper head gasket. As Dave mentioned, be sure to fit it to both the head and bock to see that the fire ring area is covered (compressed my metal from the head and block on both sides.
Tom Wesenberg is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Old 08-28-2013, 10:27 AM   #23
Bob Johnson
Senior Member
 
Bob Johnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: California
Posts: 1,013
Default Re: Failing Headgaskets

Quote:
Originally Posted by jacksonchuck View Post
Bob,

Thanks for sharing your experience. It makes sense and will keep the torque wrench in the car. How much torque did you use? When yours failed was it in the area between the cylinders and center water passage? Seems like a weak place in the gasket. I wonder if using the modern silicone coated composite gasket is worth the hassle or if going with the copper one would be better.
I used 55-60 ft-lbs. The failure was either center front of cylinder #3 or right between #3 and #4.

Bob
Bob Johnson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2013, 01:01 PM   #24
tbirdtbird
BANNED
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: inside your RAM
Posts: 3,134
Default Re: Failing Headgaskets

"Don't drive it before the first retorque."

AMEN! or the second either
__________________
'31 180A
tbirdtbird is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2013, 02:19 PM   #25
ctvpa
Senior Member
 
ctvpa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 479
Default Re: Failing Headgaskets

I blew a head gasket 480 miles on a pro rebuild. I am running a high compression head. I called Snyders and asked for the 'High Compression Silicone Gaskets'. His answer was "I work here and won't sell you one" He told me to use a model B head gasket.
ctvpa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2013, 08:26 AM   #26
Growley bear
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 777
Default Re: Failing Headgaskets

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Straight Edge should be long enough to cover entire length of cylinder head or block. A length of monofilament fishing line used on a clean surface is as good or better than a steel tool. It is very inexpensive, easily obtainable, easy to store, and very accurate and easy to use.
Chet
Quote:
Originally Posted by jacksonchuck View Post
Checked both head and block with a 12 inch machinists straight edge. Both are flat and true. No light coming in under ruler and cannot get a .001 feeler guage under straightedge anywhere.
Growley bear is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:03 PM.