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#21 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
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![]() Bill W.
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#22 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lees Summit, MO
Posts: 340
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POR also has their "chassis coat black" available in rattle cans as well as quarts, gallons etc. They say to apply over POR 15 but can be applied directly to bare metal but you will not get the same results.
For a budget job that looks good Rustoleum applied carefully will give good results and hold up well. |
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#23 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 4,179
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Hi reggiedog,
Might add to have utmost respect for those who do not see a need for rust encapsulation protection. If one does not recognize any benefits from using it, gladly skip it. It is far more time consuming to prepare surfaces for POR 15 & more work to apply multiple coats of POR 15 products. Besides, it is always a joy to work with what one feels comfortable with rather than having doubts about a product -- each to his own. |
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#24 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Central, IL
Posts: 3,968
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BUT dont forget you never stop learning no matter how old you get so its important to try new things once in awhile and listen to what others have found. While yea sometimes it doesn't work as well as what someone else has been doing in the past its important to keep an open mind about methods and products and give em a shot if it sounds reasonable. And yes i aint that old but ive seen plenty of snake oil salesmen out there so thats when its time to ask questions. TO me sometimes these opinion questions can be compared to what brand of beer do you like? Some say Old Milwaukee some say BudLight and wouldn't touch Old Milwaukee and vice versa. But if Ive never had an Old Milwaukee I'm willing to try it as maybe i DO like it and everyone else doesn't. Like POR-15. I love the stuff! I do see how it is a pain to remove and its more of a glue than anything but for what i use it for and when i use it its amazing stuff, i cant say much about chassis saver or any other product (except rustoleum - does work for engine parts and stuff you want to remove later but for frame and axle stuff id go with por 15) as i haven't first hand experienced it. anyhow someone can have my soapbox now.... ![]()
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#25 |
Senior Member
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Mine was done in the early 80's with rustoleum primer and black no problems so far.
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#26 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Columbia, TN.38401
Posts: 422
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#27 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 946
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HI: Now that I have a lot of idea's ????. And a lot of them very helpful and some not so much. And some of them I have had used before myself and some never have even heard of. And I know some of them are very good Idea's and some not so good but now that I'm more confused then I was before as to what to put on the frame I just don't know as to what to do. But now I have a lot of Idea's as to what to do and NOT to do. I'm kind of between the POR 15 and the Chassis saver by Magnet and I did look on there web site and they do have a lot of paint to chose from. And I did go on POR 15's web site and they have about the same type's of paint that C.Saver has. But if I did go with any of the paints POR 15 or the C.Saver I would still have to buy more paint to top coat it with. So I when to eastwood's site and I talked to one of there tec's and what there told me is that they never had anyone ask that before and didn't have a clue to what to do. They of coarse recommended there paint of coarse so here's what I'm going to do I'm going to site here on the computer this weekend and look at both POR 15 and the Chassis Saver and the Eastwoods 3X Extreme chassis black for a top coat over POR 15 or the Chassis Saver. Or maybe I should just say the hell with it and just go with primmer and regular paint Just don't know but I will figure it out now that I have a lot of Idea's to go with. Thank's guy's reggiedog
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#28 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: SW Wisconsin
Posts: 192
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Reggie, What product you use depends a lot on how you prep the frame. If you will mediablast it for almost complete rust removal, then I think the eastwood epoxy primer and the ceramic chassi black is a very good way to go. If you are going to sand and wire brush, then the Por-15 or similar would be a better choice because of the residual rust. That's what they are for.The areas that cannot be reached by any rust removal methods( all the overlapped joints) are where I use rust encapsulator by brush to try and work into the joint. Just my thoughts. Tom
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#29 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wheeling, WV - U.S.A.
Posts: 241
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Sandblast, prime with an epoxy primer of your choice, then Rustoleum Satin Black. Looks great and easy to touch up if ever needed. I've been very pleased with this combo on several different car restorations over the years.
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#30 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks Co, Pa
Posts: 3,749
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Reggie, I guess by now you think I own stock in Magnet Paint, I don't! The description of what you go through with the pitfalls of POR 15 + plus the extra money, are enough to make me shy away from it. With C.S. there's no mixing, maybe just a little thinning. As far as a topcoat, Why not get your fender paint, $40-60@ Gal. from them too and kill two birds.... I don't know where you are, but there may be a dealer near by that you can discuss it with and he may be able to even show you a job or two and you can decide on whether it's for you or not. Check their website for dealer locations. There's at least six dealers near me in Pa. But I just made a suggestion and I won't feel brokenhearted if you choose something else.
Good Luck with it! Terry Quote:
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