Model A motor mounts

[JBohannon]

Purdy Swoft's picture of the AA looks just like my mounts. But I do not see the rubber in his either.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

MYTHS, MYTHS, MYTHS! The new Model A engine was NOT smooooth, like Hmmmm! Yes, it was probably smoother than an old worn out motor that has been "AROUND THE HORN." Think about it.............It's impossible!
Bill W. (Myth Buster, Ghost Chaser & Discussion Stirrer)

excuse me Bill. How many originals have you ridden in? I had the pleasure of a ride in a wonderfully maintained 30 cabriolet with 25K on it. It was smooth. By 1930 standards though. But still miles away from many of todays "restored" cars. I did say, "with only a little vibration typical of 4 banger engine design prior to the development of internal counter rotating balance shafts."

BTW, whats the shouting about??

[Keith True]

You won't see the rubbers in a picture like that.The L shaped pads go inside the frame rail between the mount and the rail,and the flat one goes between the outside plate and the outside of the frame rail.We know now though that you have original type mounts.You may still have rubber in there,but squashed so tight you can't see it.There is no rubber between the mount and the flywheel housing.When you take it apart check for cracks,if the rubbers are beat out and the mounts have been bouncing on the frame they may be cracked.They weld like butter,so it is not a big problem.Also,do one at a time.That way you can do it with a floor jack.

[Paul from Maine]

Originally Posted by pat in Santa Cruz

excuse me Bill. How many originals have you ridden in? I had the pleasure of a ride in a wonderfully maintained 30 cabriolet with 25K on it. It was smooth. By 1930 standards though. But still miles away from many of todays "restored" cars. I did say, "with only a little vibration typical of 4 banger engine design prior to the development of internal counter rotating balance shafts."

BTW, whats the shouting about??

My worn out motor with 58,000 mi9les on it had no power but was smooth as butter. No vibration that I could feel. I had it rebuilt. It now has gobs of power, but is nowhere near as smooth as before the rebuild. Still it, doesn't really vibrate that much. I was so anxious to reinstall the motor, I didn't replace the rubber pads even though I had them on the bench. Oh well. I am going to pull the rear end out this summer, so maybe I will pull the motor out too and replace the rubber pads.

[mot]

joe
the first picture shows the motor mount with the rubber that fits inside the frame,darn i took it upside down,the flange on the rubber is on the bottom
the second picture shows the outside of the frame with another rubber between the frame and plate
i agree with Pat,I have three very smooth running engines
they dont compare to the super balanced engines of today,but by no means do they shake the car excessively
tom

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

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Originally Posted by pat in Santa Cruz

excuse me Bill. How many originals have you ridden in? I had the pleasure of a ride in a wonderfully maintained 30 cabriolet with 25K on it. It was smooth. By 1930 standards though. But still miles away from many of todays "restored" cars. I did say, "with only a little vibration typical of 4 banger engine design prior to the development of internal counter rotating balance shafts."

BTW, whats the shouting about??

Sorry Pat,
Not "shouting," just hard of "seeing!" Thought it would help some others who may not see like an Eagle. Others have favorite fonts, so why do I get picked on? (Sniff!)
How's this? I've ridden & driven many Model A's, they all have some inherent vibrations, low milers are almost always better than an old loose ratteley trap! I have a friend with a Cabroilet, and he attributes it's better than average quietness to the large amount of wood in it that helps absorb some of the inherent sounds. I was only sharing ways to make them a little smoother and quieter. Sold my '30 coupe with all the changes and will soon be driving my "bone stock" Avatar, '29 coupe as it is. The only changes are 16" wheels, 6 blade fan, and coolant overflow tank. Last 2 mods are 'cause it gets dang hot in Fresno!
Am I out of trouble yet? Did I use appropriate "smilies" & "un-smilies?" TROUBLE is my middle name!
Bill Trouble W.

[J Franklin]

The mounts can be removed and replaced with new rubber without removing anything but the mounts Use a hydraulic jack to spread the frame for some clearance if needed. do one side at a time with the engine blocked up from the floor. It is a relatively quick and easy job.

[JBohannon]

First of all I need to hand out some compliments. You senior guys on this forum do so much to help preserve American History in relation to the Model A. Those of us who just do not know a lot could not help keep our cars or trucks going without this help. I know I am always trying to get some free info out of yall(I'm from Texis) but it really is true. This thread has been very helpful to me because I have come to the conclusion I have such a bad vibration it is not the motor mounts. I actually see the rubber now. I am thinking it is my u joint. How do I take a look at that to see its condition.

[James Rogers]

Originally Posted by JBohannon

First of all I need to hand out some compliments. You senior guys on this forum do so much to help preserve American History in relation to the Model A. Those of us who just do not know a lot could not help keep our cars or trucks going without this help. I know I am always trying to get some free info out of yall(I'm from Texis) but it really is true. This thread has been very helpful to me because I have come to the conclusion I have such a bad vibration it is not the motor mounts. I actually see the rubber now. I am thinking it is my u joint. How do I take a look at that to see its condition.

Pull the motor or rear end.

[sturgis 39]

Originally Posted by JBohannon

First of all I need to hand out some compliments. You senior guys on this forum do so much to help preserve American History in relation to the Model A. Those of us who just do not know a lot could not help keep our cars or trucks going without this help. I know I am always trying to get some free info out of yall(I'm from Texis) but it really is true. This thread has been very helpful to me because I have come to the conclusion I have such a bad vibration it is not the motor mounts. I actually see the rubber now. I am thinking it is my u joint. How do I take a look at that to see its condition.

You might be able to remove the housing between the transmission and the drive shaft. It has been a few years but I think you can see one u-joint there. It has about six bolts that take a 1/2 or 9/16 wrench.

Have you had the wheels checked for being bent or out of balance? Remember the red dot on the tire goes out side and lines up with the valve stem.

I am sure there are some experts that have a way of telling if the u-joints are bad. I guess you only have the vibration when you are going down the highway. If the vibration occurs when in neutral and and not moving it probably is not the u-joints.

The rear end is easier to pull than the engine. Just make sure you have it blocked up good. The u bolts on the spring, brake rods and the cover behind the transmission and the speed-o-meter cable will have to be removed. The shock arms will have to be disconnected. The spring should be clamped with c-clamps in case the center bolt decides to let go at any time. The tire and wheels will have to be removed to clear the fenders.

The biggest thing is safety and good blocking under the frame. A good day with a few coffee breaks and lunch you should have it out in a few hours.

Pulling the engine seems to take longer because of the light bar, radiator, fuel line, carburetor linkage and wiring connections. The exhaust pipe will have to be disconnected to pull the engine too.

[James Rogers]

Originally Posted by sturgis 39

You might be able to remove the housing between the transmission and the drive shaft. It has been a few years but I think you can see one u-joint there. It has about six bolts that take a 1/2 or 9/16 wrench.

Have you had the wheels checked for being bent or out of balance? Remember the red dot on the tire goes out side and lines up with the valve stem.

I am sure there are some experts that have a way of telling if the u-joints are bad. I guess you only have the vibration when you are going down the highway. If the vibration occurs when in neutral and and not moving it probably is not the u-joints.

The rear end is easier to pull than the engine. Just make sure you have it blocked up good. The u bolts on the spring, brake rods and the cover behind the transmission and the speed-o-meter cable will have to be removed. The shock arms will have to be disconnected. The spring should be clamped with c-clamps in case the center bolt decides to let go at any time. The tire and wheels will have to be removed to clear the fenders.

The biggest thing is safety and good blocking under the frame. A good day with a few coffee breaks and lunch you should have it out in a few hours.

Pulling the engine seems to take longer because of the light bar, radiator, fuel line, carburetor linkage and wiring connections. The exhaust pipe will have to be disconnected to pull the engine too.

1. The u joint is only accessable by removing the engine/tranny or rear end. It cannot be seen by removing the clamshell. The bell is pressed forward by the rear snuggly to the rear retainer. If you could see it you couldn't tell if it was good or bad.

2. Tires manufactured today either don't have balance marks or the dots do not mean anything to anyone except the manufacturer.

The rest is absolutely correct since the engine/transmission is difficult to remove as an assembly.