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#21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: southeastern Michigan
Posts: 10,144
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I agree with Sheldon, something remains amiss. Either the king pins are switched or they aren't the right king pins.
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#22 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 132
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The axle is bent..... This helps to explain the bent left front frame horn and a few other things about the frame...
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#23 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 132
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I should say.. the bent right front frame horn
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#24 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: southeastern Michigan
Posts: 10,144
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Shame on us for assuming that the axle was straight and not asking that as a first question and shame on you for not noticing it earlier.
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#25 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 6,276
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#26 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: sw minnesota
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#27 |
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Is it a Genuine 32 Axle or a repo .?
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#28 |
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 132
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In general, the condition, wear and tear seem to be consistent with the rest of the car, so I believe it is genuine. To be on the safe side I've replaced just about everything that I can with new - bearings, shims, king pins, perches, bushings, etc. Interestingly enough the tie rod is straight. I've located another front axle - that is straight.
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#29 |
Senior Member
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The axles are relatively soft ( for staughtning purposes )so you bend them with a chain and a porter power .
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#30 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 6,276
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Last edited by Tim Ayers; 01-27-2023 at 05:21 PM. |
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#31 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: southeastern Michigan
Posts: 10,144
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Repro '32 front axles? No such animal. And no non-"heavy" ones either!
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#32 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,850
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/paj-1098b |
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#33 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 132
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Finished straightening out the front axle and corrected the camber. Test fitting all the parts. Still need to make a few replacements (shackles, etc). First two pictures are before, and the last three are after.
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#34 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 3,833
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#35 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 6,276
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#36 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 8,598
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__________________
The only thing nice about being imperfect is the joy it brings to others.... "Silver rings, your butt! Them's washers!" "We shot our way out of that town for a dollar's worth of steel holes!" - from 'The Wild Bunch' - 1969 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NReUd2_0u0 |
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#37 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Solihull, England.
Posts: 8,800
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You need your thrust bearings in place to have the height right. It looks a lot better than it was, though.
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#38 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: southeastern Michigan
Posts: 10,144
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Without paint on them as in your photo, they should fit as shown in Sheldon's photos. With paint, it can be a very snug fit, but no misalignment or gaps.
Best guess? Wrong king pins. |
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#39 |
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 132
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Sorry for the lack of information...... and as always thanks for your comments and guidance.
You are correct. I need to add the thrust bearings, shims, locking pins, and use correct bolt for the leaf spring, as well as the clamps that keep the leafs aligned. The spindles have been honed. All races, bushings and bearings have been replaced. The hubs have been turned and the brake pads have been replaced. All wheel hub lug studs have been replaced. Note the front lug studs are shorter than the rear. Yes, I replaced the rear as well. The king pins are not seated all the way down and the thrust bearings have not been installed, giving the appearance they are wrong size. I was just happy that I managed to straighten the axel. It was not only bent backwards by 2”, but also twisted (front to back - on the passenger side and back to front - driver side) and finally the camber was off on both sides. Now, it is straight, with the correct camber on both sides and is no longer twisted. It will stay upright when on its back. Everything will be dissembled and then primed (sanded, etc) and painted. The front leaf spring will be dissembled, primed and graphite added between the leaves and then re-assembled and painted. Last edited by Lincolnville; 03-17-2024 at 12:27 PM. Reason: details |
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#40 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: southeastern Michigan
Posts: 10,144
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Tim,
All '32-'34 passenger car and commercial car front brake actuaters are the same (one right, one left, once assembled). Un-assembled, the housings are the same, right and left. The '35-36 versions are very noticeably shorter by about two inches and the BB versions are much heftier. Last edited by DavidG; 03-16-2024 at 01:37 AM. |
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