The Ford Barn

Jonnyenglish · 04-10-2016, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

I've taken engines apart that looked like this, but never again would i try to save anything except the block and crank. Cut the rods off with a torch or sazall. then using a hole saw of the correct dia snd slot the pistons with the saz all, be careful not to hit the cylinder walls. now you can brake the pistons out. Now get the block bake cleaned and pressure tested. If it passes tha t you can try and remove the valves. AS you can see, replacement would be cheaper. You might want to find a hit man

Do you have a prefered hit man that i can have the contact details of

(joke)
Sounds like a lot of work when the block may be scrap anyway. Think il be looking for a replacement, just being put of pocket and trying to get this car on the road on a tight budget is frustrating but i guess thats cars.

scooder · 04-10-2016, 01:24 PM

Where abouts are you in England? There is a bunch of this stuff over here, just gotta know where to look mate, that engine may yield a good crank and block. I've stripped stuff that looked like that, it takes time and patience, most often it's the crank, rods, maybe cam and if lucky the block. Of this stuff, rods cranks and cams are findable over here for not a lot (used one's, so would need checking/resizing) cams easy, cranks fairly easy.
So with that stuff available, I'd pretty much do as Ron said. You can gas axe the valves and springs to get um out. Hole saw the pistons, but use a very short drill in the arbour, so you don't drill into the small end of the rod. Get under and remove all the caps you can get at and smack the broken (cus you just bored a hole in it) piston and Rod out. You can then fiddle fart the remaining rods out as you may be able to turn the crank enough.
Or gas axe the last ones and now the crank will come out.
Smack the tappets up away from the cam, then fight the cam out.
Just giving you an idea of what's ahead.
if your over on the east side, Bob Froch is your man. He will have all you kneed, may have a good 24 stud block, 21 stud blocks easy he has a bunch usually.
I'll pm his number if you want.
Martin.

Oh bugger! I've just remembered I was supposed to dig out an oil pump for a chap, had to clear my in box, can't remember his name.
If your reading this, bung me a pm re the pump please.
unless Bob sorted you out.
Martin.

Jonnyenglish · 04-10-2016, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scooder

Where abouts are you in England? There is a bunch of this stuff over here, just gotta know where to look mate, that engine may yield a good crank and block. I've stripped stuff that looked like that, it takes time and patience, most often it's the crank, rods, maybe cam and if lucky the block. Of this stuff, rods cranks and cams are findable over here for not a lot (used one's, so would need checking/resizing) cams easy, cranks fairly easy.
So with that stuff available, I'd pretty much do as Ron said. You can gas axe the valves and springs to get um out. Hole saw the pistons, but use a very short drill in the arbour, so you don't drill into the small end of the rod. Get under and remove all the caps you can get at and smack the broken (cus you just bored a hole in it) piston and Rod out. You can then fiddle fart the remaining rods out as you may be able to turn the crank enough.
Or gas axe the last ones and now the crank will come out.
Smack the tappets up away from the cam, then fight the cam out.
Just giving you an idea of what's ahead.
if your over on the east side, Bob Froch is your man. He will have all you kneed, may have a good 24 stud block, 21 stud blocks easy he has a bunch usually.
I'll pm his number if you want.
Martin.

Oh bugger! I've just remembered I was supposed to dig out an oil pump for a chap, had to clear my in box, can't remember his name.
If your reading this, bung me a pm re the pump please.
unless Bob sorted you out.
Martin.

Thanks Martin, im on the south coast, il google Bob and find his number, It would be good to be able to salvage some of it and make some progress on a tight budget. And i dont know where to start looking so hopefully Bob will be a useful contact. Thanks

Mart · 04-10-2016, 03:02 PM

That's a real shame. I can't believe that the seller said it turned over. It did, I guess, seventy years ago. Not lately, I assume. If a seller is a bit shady they suddenly become quite economical with the truth when they know the buyer is a long way away on another continent, and has no way of just popping round for a visit. It's a real kick in the bollocks when you spend a lot of money (especially with shipping etc.) and you rely so much on trust.

If the water damage is concentrated in the top end, and the crank and rods look good from the bottom end, I would try and salvage as much as possible, including the rods. The clincher is the block. If it is cracked around the pan rail (from freeze damage) will be the killer. If the block is otherwise ok, and the crank salvageable, the other parts ought to be able to be found. I have some +.045 pistons that I could sell if they would do the trick. (your engine might be a 3-1/16" bore, though, these are 3-3/16 +.045).

Mart.

scooder · 04-10-2016, 03:51 PM

Bob has a web page, but ring him. The number is on the page. He's a real nice bloke, should be able to sort you out. Lots of NOS Ford parts. He's not a computer guy.
I just had a look at your pics, damn! Can't believe the butt hole said it turned over! As Mart said, it did seventy years ago.
Where abouts on the south coast? Jim at royal kustoms is in Poole, he does a bunch of flathead stuff aswell, pretty sure he still has stocks of French ex army flatheads. He builds from stock to race flatmotors useing customers blocks or the frog ones from stock. Google Royal Kustoms, with the K.
Martin.

Jonnyenglish · 04-11-2016, 12:55 AM

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Thanks Mart and Martin,

I saw some of Jims work (royal Kustoms) at Pendine last year and he does build some lovely looking motors, but ive always thought they may be too rich for me, but i guess its worth asking.
Il definately be in touch with Bob, he sounds useful.
Also thanks Mart, for the offer to buy your pistons.

Maybe good news though, i contacted the seller and he emailed straight back and said he would see what he could do, and apologised. So will see what he comes up with????

04-10-2016, 01:24 PM	#22
scooder Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 2,593	Re: 24 stud flathead Where abouts are you in England? There is a bunch of this stuff over here, just gotta know where to look mate, that engine may yield a good crank and block. I've stripped stuff that looked like that, it takes time and patience, most often it's the crank, rods, maybe cam and if lucky the block. Of this stuff, rods cranks and cams are findable over here for not a lot (used one's, so would need checking/resizing) cams easy, cranks fairly easy. So with that stuff available, I'd pretty much do as Ron said. You can gas axe the valves and springs to get um out. Hole saw the pistons, but use a very short drill in the arbour, so you don't drill into the small end of the rod. Get under and remove all the caps you can get at and smack the broken (cus you just bored a hole in it) piston and Rod out. You can then fiddle fart the remaining rods out as you may be able to turn the crank enough. Or gas axe the last ones and now the crank will come out. Smack the tappets up away from the cam, then fight the cam out. Just giving you an idea of what's ahead. if your over on the east side, Bob Froch is your man. He will have all you kneed, may have a good 24 stud block, 21 stud blocks easy he has a bunch usually. I'll pm his number if you want. Martin. Oh bugger! I've just remembered I was supposed to dig out an oil pump for a chap, had to clear my in box, can't remember his name. If your reading this, bung me a pm re the pump please. unless Bob sorted you out. Martin.

04-10-2016, 03:02 PM	#24
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,798	Re: 24 stud flathead That's a real shame. I can't believe that the seller said it turned over. It did, I guess, seventy years ago. Not lately, I assume. If a seller is a bit shady they suddenly become quite economical with the truth when they know the buyer is a long way away on another continent, and has no way of just popping round for a visit. It's a real kick in the bollocks when you spend a lot of money (especially with shipping etc.) and you rely so much on trust. If the water damage is concentrated in the top end, and the crank and rods look good from the bottom end, I would try and salvage as much as possible, including the rods. The clincher is the block. If it is cracked around the pan rail (from freeze damage) will be the killer. If the block is otherwise ok, and the crank salvageable, the other parts ought to be able to be found. I have some +.045 pistons that I could sell if they would do the trick. (your engine might be a 3-1/16" bore, though, these are 3-3/16 +.045). Mart.

04-10-2016, 03:51 PM	#25
scooder Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 2,593	Re: 24 stud flathead Bob has a web page, but ring him. The number is on the page. He's a real nice bloke, should be able to sort you out. Lots of NOS Ford parts. He's not a computer guy. I just had a look at your pics, damn! Can't believe the butt hole said it turned over! As Mart said, it did seventy years ago. Where abouts on the south coast? Jim at royal kustoms is in Poole, he does a bunch of flathead stuff aswell, pretty sure he still has stocks of French ex army flatheads. He builds from stock to race flatmotors useing customers blocks or the frog ones from stock. Google Royal Kustoms, with the K. Martin.

04-11-2016, 12:55 AM	#26
Jonnyenglish Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: united Kingdom Posts: 58	Re: 24 stud flathead Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Thanks Mart and Martin, I saw some of Jims work (royal Kustoms) at Pendine last year and he does build some lovely looking motors, but ive always thought they may be too rich for me, but i guess its worth asking. Il definately be in touch with Bob, he sounds useful. Also thanks Mart, for the offer to buy your pistons. Maybe good news though, i contacted the seller and he emailed straight back and said he would see what he could do, and apologised. So will see what he comes up with????