06-05-2010, 08:53 AM | #21 |
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Re: Model T Racing Thread
...
Last edited by t-head; 06-12-2011 at 11:04 AM. |
06-05-2010, 09:12 AM | #22 |
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Re: Model T Racing Thread
More photos of Winfield and his famous engine.
Last edited by t-head; 06-12-2011 at 11:04 AM. |
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06-05-2010, 11:38 AM | #23 |
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Re: Model T Racing Thread
PART 1 Machining your own Valve guides.
Zach (SUHRsc) Posted a question on a different thread in the new Ford Barn T section but it may help some of you here with overheads. The valve guides for his BBR Rajo Head are missing and he needs to know what to do for new valve guides. I decided to post it here on the racing thread as it will be easier to find later and really only applies to overheads as a stock T the guides are part of the block. I would use cast iron, I machine my own if I cannot find something to adapt that will fit. Then get your valve stems hard chromed because if the stems are stainless you may have gauling and sticking. Send them to http://www.calvalves.com/ they will do a good job or have a local plating shop do them for you. You only need .0005 - 1/2 of a thousandth of chrome. The second photo shows a valve that a local plating shop masked the head of of and plated for me. The rough spot at the end of the plating needs to be smoothed off before using it, photo 2. Ream the guides for .003"- .004" exhausts and .002" for the intakes. If you have a good machine shop near by you can get a better and smoother surface by having the id if the guide honed out the last .002 or so. Set up this way they will work very well with little to no oil. The graphite in the cast iron will help along with whatever oil you can put on them. I generaly finish off the OD of the guide where it sits in the head 1/2 thousandth- .0005 bigger than the bore in the head for a good tight fit which will also transfer the heat better. I have used this on a lot of T-Head and L-Heads (like an early T with exposed valves) with exposed valves which get no oil and it will work beautifully. The photo shows a new guide machined here on the lathe along with an original one. A piece of cast iron bar and a reamer. This is what is being done in modern cars and trucks as the modern valve guide seals keep almost all of the oil out for emissions purposes. This is the only way that really holds up well unless a seal that meters just the right amount of oil is used, then bronze might work. Zach you can get cast iron from Mc Master-Carr. They have everything under the sun and more. They also have a great website.... here is a link for the cast Iron...... http://www.mcmaster.com/#iron-rods/=7csahk Last edited by t-head; 06-12-2011 at 11:04 AM. |
06-05-2010, 11:55 AM | #24 |
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Re: Model T Racing Thread
PART 2 Machining you own valve guides.
Before I start I might add that this is not the only way to do this but it is a way that I have found over the years to work out well. You end up with a new guide in which the OD of the guide is perfectly parallel to the the bore of the guide which is important so that it ends up concentric with the valve seat. To do this right you are going to need a good lathe with an adjustable chuck or precision collets so when you flip the guide over to drill the other side you can set up the guide to run true again with .001. You are also going to need a good set of centers that run dead true for the head and tail stocks. Check them with an indicator to make sure as the area of the OD of the guide that registers in the head gets machined off of centers which if you take your time and do it correctly will result it perfect alignment. I first set up and turn the OD of the stock straight and true to give me a good set up that I can check with a dial indicator for each operation on each end of the guide. Then I cut them to length in the lathe. Next set up a blank and indicate the OD and get it true then face off the end (this is the point the photos start at). Then center drill it carefully with a good center drill, photo 1. Next I use an undersize screw machine drill because they are shorter and will walk or deflect less than a standard length drill, photo 2. Drill in a little more than half the length you need and stop. Do one side of all the guides this way and take your time and don't force the drill and make sure it is sharpened correctly or buy high quality news ones which should drill fairly straight. Then turn the guides around, indicate them and get then + - .001 and face the second end then repeat the procedure from the first side. After drilling thru and meeting the other side in the same set up drill all the way thru with a drill that is larger than the short drill but about .010 smaller than your reamer size, photo 3. By doing it this way if you were careful with all your set ups and used correctly sharpened drills you should end up with a good straight hole. Then in the same set up ream to your finish size or smaller if you are going to hone them, photo 4. The OD of both ends and the middle can then be machined in a good chuck or collet but leave the area where the guide registers in the head oversized about .020. After you have the ends machined to the shape that you need, put good centers in the head and tail stocks and indicate them to make sure they are true. Then set your guide between centers and finish off the .020 you left to clean up before on this area and you will end up with a very nice and true guide. Photo 5 shows an old valve guide on a Sunnen honing machine to show you how the machine works. Its gives a much better finish than can be done with a reamer and the last photo shows the mandrel and stone which does the finishing in an oil bath. Last edited by t-head; 06-12-2011 at 11:04 AM. |
06-05-2010, 05:38 PM | #25 |
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Re: Model T Racing Thread
Thank you very much for posting this, T-head... it will be a huge help!
Zach
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06-06-2010, 09:41 AM | #26 |
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Re: Model T Racing Thread
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06-06-2010, 09:46 AM | #27 |
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Re: Model T Racing Thread
Cat Fish?
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06-06-2010, 09:49 AM | #28 |
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Re: Model T Racing Thread
Back to Winfield and his first racing car in 1921.
Last edited by t-head; 06-12-2011 at 11:04 AM. |
06-06-2010, 10:12 AM | #29 |
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Re: Model T Racing Thread
Great pics T-Head!
The car that appears to have a broken spindle is a very nice looking car (minus the wheel problem) |
06-06-2010, 10:31 AM | #30 |
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Re: Model T Racing Thread
Looks like the car with the spindle broke, may have been involved in something more.... notice the guardrail is "gone"....
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06-06-2010, 02:35 PM | #31 |
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Re: Model T Racing Thread
This is the engine in Winfields first and maybe second car but I am unsure if this is a 2-up 2-down motor.
The second photo is his Kant Skore Piston Special in front of his sponsors shop. Note that he is holding a trophy. Last edited by t-head; 06-12-2011 at 11:04 AM. |
06-06-2010, 06:38 PM | #32 |
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Re: Model T Racing Thread
.....
Last edited by t-head; 06-12-2011 at 11:04 AM. |
06-07-2010, 12:51 AM | #33 |
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Re: Model T Racing Thread
Poor quality photo, but I like the fact that they jamed a shovel under the rear tire to keep it from rolling over. Must be a quick change rear.
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06-07-2010, 08:26 AM | #34 |
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Re: Model T Racing Thread
What's the story on the #51 car?
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06-07-2010, 08:37 AM | #35 |
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Re: Model T Racing Thread
Can you trace the plug wires and figure out the firing order?
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06-07-2010, 09:01 AM | #36 |
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Re: Model T Racing Thread
s1b.......What's the story on the #51 car?
I don't know a thing about it sorry, maybe someone one will. |
06-07-2010, 09:05 AM | #37 |
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Re: Model T Racing Thread
The Budd wire wheel factory in the late teens.
Last edited by t-head; 06-12-2011 at 11:04 AM. |
06-07-2010, 09:09 AM | #38 |
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Re: Model T Racing Thread
The cross country racer on display after the race.
Last edited by t-head; 06-12-2011 at 11:03 AM. |
06-07-2010, 01:27 PM | #39 |
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Re: Model T Racing Thread
Ford racing car maker and speed equipment manufacturer Robert Roof tells all in a most interesting story.
For some technical reason beyond me on the Ford Barn posts are smaller than the HAMB. If this is to small for you, follow the link below to the best racing thread ever, started by Kurtis on HAMB. It is about pre 1944 racing cars from around the world. It is post #3612. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...09#post5309109 Last edited by t-head; 06-12-2011 at 11:03 AM. |
06-07-2010, 02:12 PM | #40 |
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Re: Model T Racing Thread
This is the T dirt track racer we found in Spartanburg SC was able to buy the car after almost 2 years. The car has a 1919 T engine, very modified ford tractor pistons full of drilled holes, Rods were drilled also... The man that built the car did a oil pressure to the mains and sprayed to the rods and cam, using 2 outside pumps. the original plans of how to build a dirt track racer came with the car. here are a couple photos... it is now in the EMMR museum in PA.
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