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#21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: 60615,330th Ave.,Clare, Iowa, 50524
Posts: 1,457
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#22 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: southeastern Michigan
Posts: 10,150
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You're kidding, right?
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#23 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: 60615,330th Ave.,Clare, Iowa, 50524
Posts: 1,457
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#24 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 16,564
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I've read about sweated on counterweights and forged counterweights but all I've ever seen is the forged ones.
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#25 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: southeastern Michigan
Posts: 10,150
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Given that it is a '34 build 108,000 engines and 18 months after the counter-balanced crank was adopted 100% in November, 1932, the odds of it being the sweated-on variety are likely miniscule.
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#26 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 8,841
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Bob |
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#27 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: 60615,330th Ave.,Clare, Iowa, 50524
Posts: 1,457
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You never know what your going to find in any engine from 32 to 34, and replacement engines.
There were a lot of these engines built in the 40's, and shafts were sometimes changed. We have built about 150 counter weighted cranks in Model A's, not counting the shafts we built for other engine builders, and about 63 in B's, along with new babbitt. We don't have time to do it any more, 4 months behind in babbitt work. Here is a picture of a Model A crank, with weights. I can't find the B pictures. The width of the weight, is 5/8's, you don't need the the extra weight that hangs out in the pin path. The weights are shrunk on, and pinned, not pressed. Fords were shrunk on also. The pins are not needed, but we put them in any way. Herm. |
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#28 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 6,687
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As you have removed the governor from an industrial stationary engine, I'd respectfully suggest you address the ring ridge before you crank it up.
__________________
Alan Last edited by ford38v8; 08-30-2019 at 04:56 PM. |
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#29 |
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Southern Alberta
Posts: 582
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#30 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Southern Alberta
Posts: 582
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#31 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Southern Alberta
Posts: 582
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#32 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Southern Alberta
Posts: 582
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#33 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Southern Alberta
Posts: 582
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had a good day, decided I should pull the head and look rather than flashing it up for the cost of a gasget.
the story on this engine is that it was fresh, and, I was ready for the worst cause who really knows right. however the head came off very easy, only one stud spun out of the block and it was very clean. I had the head off in 5 min with two screwdrivers and two wooden wedges. inside I was very surprised. I had poured oil in the spark plugs before hand to give it some lube that's why its so oily ![]() ![]() the pistons are not marked 10-20-30 or anything no std markings, nothing. ford script and an arrow to the front is all that's on them zero ring ridge hardly any carbon build up ![]() valves aswell are all marked ford R not sure what the R is ![]() so im prity dam happy. I see no cracks to the naked eye, even went and got my specticals on and some break kleen, but couldn't see anything |
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#34 |
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Southern Alberta
Posts: 582
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i have one other question for the experts here, the valve gallery, on the under side of the cover there is another gallery which looks like the oil feed ? does the pump push oil into this gallery then it goes up and overflows into the valve gallery?
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#35 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 7,073
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#36 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Southern Alberta
Posts: 582
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questions questions questions, hope that you fellas don't get sic of the questions.
does the B take the same crank pully? and what about putting an A pan on the B motor if I intend to put an A transmition behind this B, will it fit or do I have to cut the B pan? |
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#37 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 7,073
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If you use the A pan you will have to enlarge the opening for the rear main and dimple the pan for the rods or use very short nuts (so I have been told). Attached is a photo of my B pan on my B engine I have in my Model A with the Model A flywheel cover. I left a strap off metal fearing if I took out the spot welds I might end up with a leak. I have been told I will have a problem if I need to remove the rear main to adjust the shims. Charlie Stephens |
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#38 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 7,073
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Attached is a picture of a '32 water pump on the left and a shorter '33-'34 on the right. Which do you have? What vehicle is this going into?
Charlie Stephens |
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#39 |
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Southern Alberta
Posts: 582
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im not 100 percent sure but I think I have the long pump.
I intend to put an A transmition behind this and put it in a stock A car. seems like this is the easiest way, to mod the pan, and use the A bellhousing( flywheel cover) inplace of the B one? im wanting to run the B flywheel, which from what I have learned should be fine with the rest of the A parts |
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#40 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: MN
Posts: 7,063
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![]() Quote:
You can if you like put a "39" flywheel behind a a A or b and trans.... Early flatheads had a very heavy flywheel for a purpose too. Not sure your purpose.... Flywheels have a purpose of keeping momentum. Less you are really building a drag/circle motor, keep some rotating mass. . Last edited by Tinker; 08-31-2019 at 12:58 AM. |
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