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#21 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Perth, Western Australia
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Well that's not what I would expect.. Attached the backing plate [after some hefty grinding] , thought I would slide the hub on and then the drum do up the wheel nuts and see it all spin nice and free, nope locked solid. Really! aghh, I'm going to have to take the backing plates away and have the lips machined down to have any chance of it working... MMm not really good if they cant make the drums to fit their backing plates..
The guy I bought them from said that another set he fitted he had to grind parts to stop them scraping .. but this locked solid is a bit of a worry .
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#22 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,194
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On early spindles you have to use a bearing spacer. I would call MT before you modify anything. You do have to grind the top of round back spindles to clear wheel cylinder.
John |
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#23 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Perth, Western Australia
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The spindles are 37 ones so round on the sides flat top and bottom but still need a fair bit of grinding on top to make them fit, which I knew about but I have not heard anything about spacers?? Can't even remember seeing anything on their website.. I have a 40 setup that was so there with no problems so ??
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#24 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
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The only spacers they list on their website are for early spindles. (see below)
http://www.mtcarproducts.com/Adapters-and-Spacers.html
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#25 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Illinois
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With 40 spindles you should not need a spacer. On my roadster with 40 spindles everything bolted right on using MT hubs and drums. Is it possible the shoes could be rubbing?
John |
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#26 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Illinois
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There is about 1/4" difference. Just read MT spacer info,said some 35-36 spindles need spacer. John Last edited by john in illinois; 04-30-2016 at 08:42 AM. Reason: More info |
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#27 |
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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Did you see the "hub to drum" spacers on the above link? Might be able to get something made locally. To me a spacer seems like a better way to go than trying to machine the drums. Might be wise to give them a call before proceeding. Machining the drum might get the clearance with the backing plate taken care of, but the entire drum is still going to be closer to the backing plates so you need to be sure nothing else would be contacting internally. Shoes is all I can think of.
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#28 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
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Talkwrench, I had a similar problem but it was an easy fix. You can see where the backing plate was contacting the drum. You may find that the lip of the edge of the backing plate is rubbing against the back of the groove in the drum where they fit together causing it to bind. To solve your "lock up" problem, make a thin 5 x 51/2 in. bolt pattern sheet metal spacer shim and install it first on the hub, then install the drum. This may give you the clearance you need. Also, make sure your backing plate is sitting flat and "square" against your spindle. Hope this helps.
Last edited by 19Fordy; 04-30-2016 at 09:28 AM. |
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#29 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Perth, Western Australia
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Poor workmanship I'm afraid. Finally worked it out, They welded the brake pin block in out of whack. Had to grind it and now all seems to spin well.. See what happens when the linings go in.. Did score the drum tho' ahhh..
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#30 |
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
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Good find, thanks for the update!
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