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#81 | |
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Location: Southern California
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Bases on this I would think that you may have stripped the timing gear. Remove the timing pin and see if the timing gear turns when you turn the engine over by hand. Charlie Stephens |
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#82 |
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Location: southeastern Michigan
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Frank,
As mentioned above, you should be able to rotate the distributor cam by about five degrees as you have done as a Model B distributor has centrifical advance, unlike a Model A distributor which has manual advance. If your distributor shaft were broken, which is highly unlikely, you would be able to turn the cam far beyond five degrees in both directions. The advice you've been given to check the fiber timing gear for sheared teeth is your next step. Replacing the timing gear on the front end of the camshaft is a lot easier on a four than a V-8, but a big project nonetheless. |
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#83 | |
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Join Date: Sep 2013
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I plane to remove the distributor But may look at the timing gear first? Could that be stripped? ???? I talked to someone at Rennars corner, he said maybe the flange seared off the upper shaft of the distributor. I guess the stresses of running several hours after 20 years dormant was too much |
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#84 | |
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Charlie Stephens |
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#85 |
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I don't see how the Model A distributor puller will work
on the B distributor. I think you will just pull the top part of the mechanical advance off. Bob |
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#86 | |
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Quote:
Good catch. I definitely dropped the ball on that one. I didn't realize that the shaft was the lift point on the current pullers. Charlie Stephens |
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#87 |
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Thanks for ...........?
How do you get to the timming gear? Is it really make of fabric/cardboard......Was Henry Cheap? |
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#88 |
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Location: Mid coast Maine
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The dist should pull one if no rust, my guess the pin on bottom of dist may have sheared. Remove what ever keeps it from turning. Look at other engine..
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#89 |
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The distributor keys into the shaft below it by a pin its a simple thing that often shears of ,You don't need a puller but there is a grub screw in the side of the head that holds it in ,loosen that off then use a bar under it and pried-d up .You can tell if the cam gear is not moving by placing the timing pin in the front cover timing hole and cranking the Motor .Ted
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#90 |
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Location: southeastern Michigan
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I don't think anyone said that the timing gear was made of fabric or cardboard. It was made of a fiberous plastic called Celeron and it was likely more expensive at the time than anything made of metal.
With all due respect to the suggestion that you could inspect the timing gear by removing the timing pin on the front timing gear cover, all you would ascertain is the highly remote possibility that the nut retaining the timing gear cover on the end of the camshaft was loose. A far more likely cause is sheared teeth and that can only be checked by removing the two bolts holding the side cover of the timing gear and one beneath it through the oil pan flange (see photo below - the timing gear side cover is forward of the fuel pump and shaped something like a quarter moon) and then hand cranking the engine through several revolutions of the crankshaft. |
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#91 |
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I am trying to decide what to do next.
If the pin is sheared off the distributor shaft you would think I should be able to spin the distributor cam around by hand, right? Have the timing gears been know to fall especially after 80 years... this strange plastic/whatever it is made of could have delaminated. To removed the cover on the timing gear do I have to drain the oil out? I have been making a lot of choices so far troubleshooting and it seems like everyone was Wrong! To remove the valve cover to see if the valves are working thereby verifying that the timing gear is working means draining the engine oil, and replacing the gasket with a new one right? At Least I am learning a lot about this car, which is what I wanted... I anted someday to be able to keep it running on my own.... The best way to learn is to do it. If I bought a newly restored car, it would just sit in the garage and I never would have learned anything. Last edited by FrankWest; 12-03-2014 at 10:37 AM. |
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#92 |
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Its best to remove the dist and oil and set points, then check for binding shaft stuck and if you are lucky the pin has sheared on drive slot bottom of dist.
I would do the simple things first. The has been story's of people taking the dist out and will never run again then you will have to junk it. LOL |
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#93 |
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Frank,
Look at the picture that DavidG posted above, now read his post. He has clearly pointed out what you should do next. Remove the timing gear inspection cover (2 bolts shown in the picture and one under the cover that goes through the oil pan). After removing the 3 bolts and timing gear inspections cover, you can now crank the engine over a few spins and check the teeth on the timing gear. Very straight-forward procedure. Good luck! |
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#94 |
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What is this pin in the drive slot? I can only think of two
pins and neither one drives anything. One holds the drive gear sleeve and the other holds the sleeve on the distributor shaft. Bob |
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#95 | |
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#96 |
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You have had people work on your cars for years and you should have learned these basics years ago.
You would be better to go to the model A section. If the dist was locked and the shaft froze it would most likely shear the pin on the drive slot in the bottom of dist. I,m not blowing smoke up your asxx. |
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#97 |
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There is no pin in the drive slot.
Bob |
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#98 | |
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#99 |
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You are right.
The original ford shaft consisted of two sections that merely fit into each other with a slot. These two sections were just dropped into place and NOT PINNED. I was told that this peg often gets worn and no longer fits into the bottom shaft slot .Aftermarket shafts were usually made one long shaft. |
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#100 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Solihull, England.
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So what you're saying, Frank, it IS rocket science!
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