The Ford Barn

peanut1943 · 07-23-2013, 06:06 PM

I have a 1930 model A pickup, the light switch, should it have high and low beams? And if so, the rod has only 3 positions on it. right parking lights, center off and left is the main beam. Is there a plate that allows for high and low beams?

Patrick L. · 07-23-2013, 06:31 PM

Hmmm, I don't know. I thought center was off, left[CW] was park, 2 right positions [CCW] for low and high beams. Maybe yours is an earlier switch.

Joe K · 07-23-2013, 06:58 PM

The earlier version switches, used up to the introduction of "twolight" headlights about March 1929 were a so called Parking-off-Headlight setup. Likely (unless someone has modified it) you have a "four finger switch" inside that housing cover. The detents that keep it from going to a "Hi Headlight" position are closer together on the 4 finger switch and limit to 3 positions.

The two switches, Twolight 3 finger and the earlier 4 finger switch, are not interchangeable directly. It is possible to "rewire" a later switchplate/harness to make them work with the "early" finger type switch. Yours may have had this done since only the later 3 finger switchplate/harnesses are available from the parts houses.

Tom W of this board has some nice pix of the different switches/plates. It is possible to "figure out" what the contact paths are based on the various documentation on the 'net and by studying the switch pix.

Hope this helps. I am looking for the earlier switch which will go on my March 1929 truck which has the earlier single beam lights/lenses. A LOT of earlier parts that were outmoded for the passenger car lines were "used up" on the Ford truck lines.

Joe K

Tom Wesenberg · 07-23-2013, 07:36 PM

See my pictures and reply in #16 of this link:

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...+tom+wesenberg

Joe K · 07-23-2013, 08:27 PM

Thanks Tom. Corrected. "W" and "E" are right next to each other on the keyboard.

Joe K

peanut1943 · 07-24-2013, 09:19 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Joe: I looked today and found that I have the 9 button plate and the 4 finger other plate. That is most likely why I only have 3 positions. Thanks for your help. If you have other suggestion that would help..

Joe K · 07-25-2013, 12:09 AM

The way to think about this is that the four fingers are connected together electrically. This definitely for the Pre-March 1929 single beam headlights.

The 9 button plate is for the three finger switch body - which is also set up for a three finger switch which is able to swing between four positions.

As I said the 9 button plate is all that is available now repop.

Now is when you get your thinking cap on. Forget anything you think you know about what color wire/stripe goes to where - but think in terms of "positions" and which buttons connect to what device.

One set of buttons goes to the headlight HIGH. One set goes to headlight LOW. One set of buttons goes to Parking/Tail-light. And when either of the headlights or parking light is on then you want the tail-light on too. The three or four finger switches connect a "live" button to either of the two or three buttons. Not all the buttons are electrically connected also.

With a four finger switch you certainly will not be able to get four positions - your switch is mechanically limited to three. So settle on whether you want continuous driving with HIGH or LOW beams and plan your wiring around that.

You'll have to de-land wires from the back of the plate and re-land them in possibly different positions.

Or you could give it up and buy either new (not so great) a replacement switch (they're available from Ebay for about $13 plus shipping) or an older, good condition 3 finger switch and body.

The repop switches are not considered too good. The springs are too weak and the fingers not proper tension to maintain contact with the modern switch plates. You'll be driving along and suddenly your headlights go off?

Sorry I can't give you explicit directions. Get some scratch paper and look closely at Tom's pix above. Also some wiring diagrams showing the headlight/taillight wiring.

This is a good one since it shows the wiring colors to the headlights and a three position switch plate - the actual switch with fingers is not shown (It's a 3 finger switch)

You might possibly play around with this but figure a 4 finger switch instead?

Joe K

Tom Wesenberg · 07-25-2013, 07:18 AM

You could try Bert's for the correct contact plate for the early fluted headlamps. I also needed two for 2 of my A's. They are somewhat hard to find, but I did find 2 NOS plates at a national meet.

Until you find the correct contact plate you could remove your switch and use the later switch.

07-23-2013, 06:31 PM	#2
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: light switch Hmmm, I don't know. I thought center was off, left[CW] was park, 2 right positions [CCW] for low and high beams. Maybe yours is an earlier switch.

07-23-2013, 06:58 PM	#3
Joe K Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cow Hampshire Posts: 4,188	Re: light switch The earlier version switches, used up to the introduction of "twolight" headlights about March 1929 were a so called Parking-off-Headlight setup. Likely (unless someone has modified it) you have a "four finger switch" inside that housing cover. The detents that keep it from going to a "Hi Headlight" position are closer together on the 4 finger switch and limit to 3 positions. The two switches, Twolight 3 finger and the earlier 4 finger switch, are not interchangeable directly. It is possible to "rewire" a later switchplate/harness to make them work with the "early" finger type switch. Yours may have had this done since only the later 3 finger switchplate/harnesses are available from the parts houses. Tom W of this board has some nice pix of the different switches/plates. It is possible to "figure out" what the contact paths are based on the various documentation on the 'net and by studying the switch pix. Hope this helps. I am looking for the earlier switch which will go on my March 1929 truck which has the earlier single beam lights/lenses. A LOT of earlier parts that were outmoded for the passenger car lines were "used up" on the Ford truck lines. Joe K __________________ Shudda kept the horse. Last edited by Joe K; 07-23-2013 at 08:26 PM.

07-23-2013, 07:36 PM	#4
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: light switch See my pictures and reply in #16 of this link: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...+tom+wesenberg

07-23-2013, 08:27 PM	#5
Joe K Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cow Hampshire Posts: 4,188	Re: light switch Thanks Tom. Corrected. "W" and "E" are right next to each other on the keyboard. Joe K __________________ Shudda kept the horse.

07-24-2013, 09:19 PM	#6
peanut1943 Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: Rapid River, MI Posts: 90	Re: light switch Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Joe: I looked today and found that I have the 9 button plate and the 4 finger other plate. That is most likely why I only have 3 positions. Thanks for your help. If you have other suggestion that would help..

07-23-2013, 06:06 PM	#1
peanut1943 Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: Rapid River, MI Posts: 90	light switch I have a 1930 model A pickup, the light switch, should it have high and low beams? And if so, the rod has only 3 positions on it. right parking lights, center off and left is the main beam. Is there a plate that allows for high and low beams?

07-25-2013, 12:09 AM	#7
Joe K Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cow Hampshire Posts: 4,188	Re: light switch The way to think about this is that the four fingers are connected together electrically. This definitely for the Pre-March 1929 single beam headlights. The 9 button plate is for the three finger switch body - which is also set up for a three finger switch which is able to swing between four positions. As I said the 9 button plate is all that is available now repop. Now is when you get your thinking cap on. Forget anything you think you know about what color wire/stripe goes to where - but think in terms of "positions" and which buttons connect to what device. One set of buttons goes to the headlight HIGH. One set goes to headlight LOW. One set of buttons goes to Parking/Tail-light. And when either of the headlights or parking light is on then you want the tail-light on too. The three or four finger switches connect a "live" button to either of the two or three buttons. Not all the buttons are electrically connected also. With a four finger switch you certainly will not be able to get four positions - your switch is mechanically limited to three. So settle on whether you want continuous driving with HIGH or LOW beams and plan your wiring around that. You'll have to de-land wires from the back of the plate and re-land them in possibly different positions. Or you could give it up and buy either new (not so great) a replacement switch (they're available from Ebay for about $13 plus shipping) or an older, good condition 3 finger switch and body. The repop switches are not considered too good. The springs are too weak and the fingers not proper tension to maintain contact with the modern switch plates. You'll be driving along and suddenly your headlights go off? Sorry I can't give you explicit directions. Get some scratch paper and look closely at Tom's pix above. Also some wiring diagrams showing the headlight/taillight wiring. This is a good one since it shows the wiring colors to the headlights and a three position switch plate - the actual switch with fingers is not shown (It's a 3 finger switch) You might possibly play around with this but figure a 4 finger switch instead? Joe K __________________ Shudda kept the horse. Last edited by Joe K; 07-25-2013 at 12:16 AM.

07-25-2013, 07:18 AM	#8
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: light switch You could try Bert's for the correct contact plate for the early fluted headlamps. I also needed two for 2 of my A's. They are somewhat hard to find, but I did find 2 NOS plates at a national meet. Until you find the correct contact plate you could remove your switch and use the later switch.