Distributors need to be grounded?

[47topless]

I know that the starter needs to be grounded to the engine where they mate. Is that also true of the distributor? Do I need to remove any paint that may be on the two surfaces where they meet?
Phil

[Zeke3]

Yes, the distributor needs to be grounded to complete the circuit for the points and condenser.

[Krylon32]

I don't think I ever ran a specific ground wire to the distributor. I always figured the distributor was grounded thru the block to the frame when I ran my ground cable from the block to the frame? Have I been doing this wrong for all these years?

[Zeke3]

Originally Posted by Krylon32

I don't think I ever ran a specific ground wire to the distributor. I always figured the distributor was grounded thru the block to the frame when I ran my ground cable from the block to the frame? Have I been doing this wrong for all these years?

I agree, every distributor I am familiar with grounds through its mounting to the engine block.

[JayChicago]

The diff between starter and distributor is the amount of current their mounting bolts/surfaces are handling. Starters need lots of good metal to metal to carry the huge current. Distributor is only about 4 amps, which is easily carried to the block by the mounting bolts.

[Krylon32]

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Wouldn't the same be true for the starter as long as the block to frame ground strap was heavy enough?

[rich b]

Never grounded a starter; how exactly would you do that since it bolted solidly to the engine; same applies to the distributor, solidly fitted to the engine and clamped down besides.

[GB SISSON]

I think we need to go back to the original post and note that he asked if maybe the painted surfaces might provide a poor grounding path. Some folks like to lay the paint on and I have seen where a ground is inefective because of too much paint. Since I don't sweat the details on my trucks, I sand any ground attachments with 80 grit and paint on some never seize. And yes, if I paint the block, I scrape the paint off the contact surface as well as any on the starter. I hate bad grounds.

[flatford8]

Originally Posted by rich b

Never grounded a starter; how exactly would you do that since it bolted solidly to the engine; same applies to the distributor, solidly fitted to the engine and clamped down besides.

I’m sure I’ve read posts on here that when someone has had starter issues, they ran a ground connection from the frame directly to a stater bolt......Mark

[cadillac512]

The bottom line is that both distributors and starters need to be grounded. As for requiring extra wires/cables to ground them,no...as long as the mounting surface of both parts is clean and free of paint (and the block is properly grounded) there will be no problems.



Terry

[47topless]

Thank you all for the very good responses. Between removing the distributor and sending it out to be rebuilt, I did remove the timing gear cover and gave it a nice coat of paint. After installing the newly rebuilt distributor, which was bench tested at the shop, I find it does not work on my car.
I will spend today removing the paint on the timing gear cover, where it meets the distributor, reinstall the dizzy and see if that was my problem.
Stay tuned!

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by 47topless

Thank you all for the very good responses. Between removing the distributor and sending it out to be rebuilt, I did remove the timing gear cover and gave it a nice coat of paint. After installing the newly rebuilt distributor, which was bench tested at the shop, I find it does not work on my car.
I will spend today removing the paint on the timing gear cover, where it meets the distributor, reinstall the dizzy and see if that was my problem.
Stay tuned!

Or, just run a ground wire with a ring terminal at each end.

[Reds34]

If there is a gasket between the distribubtor and timing cover (which there should be), does it actually matter if there is paint on the mounting surface of the timing cover? It seems more likely that the distributor would ground through the bolts than anything else. Just my thought as I sit here and digest my lunch.

Red

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by Reds34

If there is a gasket between the distribubtor and timing cover (which there should be), does it actually matter if there is paint on the mounting surface of the timing cover? It seems more likely that the distributor would ground through the bolts than anything else. Just my thought as I sit here and digest my lunch.

Red

Good one... you are correct! And the bolt should be plenty. Clean off the ears on the distributor would be next.

[cadillac512]

Originally Posted by Reds34

If there is a gasket between the distribubtor and timing cover (which there should be), does it actually matter if there is paint on the mounting surface of the timing cover? It seems more likely that the distributor would ground through the bolts than anything else. Just my thought as I sit here and digest my lunch.

Red

You're right. And yes, the area around the bolts is plenty if it's clean. After all, Ford didn't see any need for extra grounds on the distributors.

Easy enough to test with a volt/ohm meter too.



Terry

[Kube]

Originally Posted by rich b

Never grounded a starter; how exactly would you do that since it bolted solidly to the engine; same applies to the distributor, solidly fitted to the engine and clamped down besides.

When the oil pan was painted, the area adjacent to the starter was haphazardly masked. Thus, it was (and should be now) free of all paint.

[Flathead Fever]

Like others have said, the mounting bolt is the ground as long as the case is bare metal under the bolt and the threads are clean in the timing cover. I have never worked on or heard of a ground problem with a distributer. Just jump a wire from the distributer bolt to another ground for a quick check. I have a bunch of wires with alligators' clips for testing circuits.

I think you have another problem, like no voltage to the distributor. If you did have a bad ground, you could turn on the ignition, with the points closed, and find the bad ground using a voltage drop test. You can't guess at this stuff; you need a voltage meter. It makes diagnosing quick.

[47topless]

Voltage readings: Ignition on, no cranking. At coil terminals, BAT 3.5 V DIST 3.4V
at distributor 2.3V (is this enough?)

[aussie merc]

regardless of voltage all points need to be grounded to complete the circuit some rely only on surface contact only while others use a bridge lead to complete the circuit often over looked but years of work can lead to a buildup of crap and therefore bad contact Ohm reading should be ZERO between fixed point and dissy body .Those with vac assemblies tend to suffer more than fixed plate type