|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: NW WI
Posts: 104
|
![]()
I recently purchased a 1951 Ford F1 Flathead V8
The previous owner cut out all the original wiring, I need to start from scratch Any advice, I know I'm going to need a lot of help. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Socal
Posts: 795
|
![]()
You can get the original style cloth-covered wiring harness from Sacramento Vintage. That's one way of getting it done......
https://www.vintageford.com/sect_sea...tock%201948-52 |
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Yucaipa, CA
Posts: 1,116
|
![]()
I would buy a 1951 Ford truck shop manual that has the wiring diagrams. You are going to need the manual for all the other stuff too. That should be a very simple truck to wire if you just do one circuit at a time. charging, ignition, lighting... I'm sure you can buy reproduction wiring for it if you want to stay with the original cloth wiring. If you are going to restore the truck that is what you will need to go. That truck was 6V "positive" ground unlike modern 12V negative ground systems. If you are not restoring it then I would wire it 12V negative ground. You will need to make some changes to convert it to 12V but it's no big deal. If you do decide to make your own wiring, run everything inside of protective conduit. I like to use asphalt cloth conduit on the old cars instead of that split plastic loom. Grommets are a must anytime you run wiring through sheet a metal hole. Wavy star washers under the ground connections. Make it all look nice and neat.
The biggest thing I see guys do wrong is crimping the connectors. There are two types of crimpers. You want the good one that makes the deep dimple, and you want the dimple to push the connectors' ends down into the wire like a factory connector. That tightens the connection. If you dimple it any other spot but the top it opens up the split in the top of the connector and weakens the connection. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: NW WI
Posts: 104
|
![]()
Thank you for your input...
Jim |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SoCal-Redlands
Posts: 3,085
|
![]()
Several very good vendors over original wiring harnesses for your p/u. My recommendation for an original harness is YnZ Yesterdays Parts.
YnZs Yesterdays Parts; Manufacturer of Classic and Antique Automotive Wiring Harnesses (ynzyesterdaysparts.com) Another option for less money is a universal kit. If you decide to go the universal route and are staying 6 volt make sure the universal kit has the heavier wires for 6 volt. Rebel Wire offers a USA made 6 volt universal kit. Rebel Wire .:. Wire Kits for Real Rods
__________________
Making the simple complicated for over 30 years. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 3,833
|
![]() Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2023
Location: San Jose CA
Posts: 61
|
![]()
I would just add that if you decide not to use a premade harness do yourself a favor and get a good crimping tool, as suggested in an earlier post. Look for a good brand and definitely controlled cycle, meaning the tool will not allow you to finish the crimp until proper pressure has been applied. Brands to look for are Panduit, AMP, Klein, Thomas & Betts. New ones can be spendy but used should be fine and you wont regret it. It should look something like this:
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|