The Ford Barn

danliveshere · 03-15-2011, 04:48 AM

The rear drums on a 35 are free, that is the brake adjuster works and I can release the linings off the brake drum and turn the drum around with 2 fingers. I have the correct hub removal tool and have got it so tight and can't get it to budge. Hit the end with large hammer etc. Can I hurt anything applying heat in the tapered area to get these drums to come off the axle? I'd like to keep the drums obviously if there is enough metal left to machine. Next question what is the minimum thickness of the drum safe to still use. Want to hear it here before I take them to the machine shop.

FlatheadTed · 03-15-2011, 06:45 AM

Jack up the far side ,with the nut on level, hit it with a big hammer .Some heat shouldn't hurt, 90 th will be the turning limit.

danliveshere · 03-15-2011, 07:24 AM

Ted I've got 1 wheel off , the other side still on the floor. Are you saying jack both sides up, or are you saying only the other side and put the side I'm trying to take off on the ground with the wheel bolted on. My tool has the ability to hit the end of the axle while keeping load on the brake drum.Will try some heat in the morning.

JM 35 Sedan · 03-15-2011, 09:22 AM

Do you have a puller that fits in the groove on the hub? If so, and you have torqued it down to the limit, hit the end of the bolt with a large hammer and the hub did not move, heat is your next step. Sometimes the brake linings will wear into the drums enough to create an edge that will hang up on the linings/shoes when you try to pull the drums. Sometimes, if you are working on a running/drivable vehicle, you can loosen the axle nut and drive the vehicle around doing some tight turns in either direction to break the taper fit loose.

Uncle Bob · 03-15-2011, 09:32 AM

In addition to what has been suggested above, the last '35 I pulled drums on did the same as you described (though I doubt it's unique to '35). With tension on the puller I rapidly tapped the taper of the hub with a small ballpeen (setting up a vibration) and it popped free with about a 15-20 beat.

Charlie Stephens · 03-15-2011, 11:21 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Quote:

Originally Posted by danliveshere

The rear drums on a 35 are free, that is the brake adjuster works and I can release the linings off the brake drum and turn the drum around with 2 fingers. I have the correct hub removal tool and have got it so tight and can't get it to budge. Hit the end with large hammer etc. Can I hurt anything applying heat in the tapered area to get these drums to come off the axle? I'd like to keep the drums obviously if there is enough metal left to machine. Next question what is the minimum thickness of the drum safe to still use. Want to hear it here before I take them to the machine shop.

The only dimension I believe for the drum is 12.060 max diameter (unless otherwise marked on the drum). This is the law in some states and the good shops will not exceed it.

Charlie Stephens

FlatheadTed · 03-15-2011, 02:30 PM

Yes the wheel opposite to the one your hitting of the ground use a sled hammer .. Tapping like Unco Bob said,is not a bad idea ,Make sure you have the washer of ,The shoes shouldn't stop the first 1/4 .tighten the puller up with a 12 wrench realll tight .I would not get it red hot .

Quote:

Originally Posted by danliveshere

Ted I've got 1 wheel off , the other side still on the floor. Are you saying jack both sides up, or are you saying only the other side and put the side I'm trying to take off on the ground with the wheel bolted on. My tool has the ability to hit the end of the axle while keeping load on the brake drum.Will try some heat in the morning.

ford1 · 03-15-2011, 03:59 PM

next time before you put the puller on take two large ballpeen hammers, use one as a back up on the drum snout, smack the opposite side with the other hammer, work your way all the way around the snout, hit it pretty hard but not so hard as to damage anything, doing this distorts the nout just a fraction thus breaking the wedge between the axle and drum, then try to pull the drum

danliveshere · 03-15-2011, 08:10 PM

Thanks guys, left the tool loaded overnight. First hit this morning it popped!! Other side was pretty good. Both drums appear to be very good. Even the linings had plenty of life left in them. Hope the inside of the diff is as nice. Not sure of the ratio as yet.

03-15-2011, 04:48 AM	#1
danliveshere Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cairns , Australia Posts: 754	removing rear 35 brake drums The rear drums on a 35 are free, that is the brake adjuster works and I can release the linings off the brake drum and turn the drum around with 2 fingers. I have the correct hub removal tool and have got it so tight and can't get it to budge. Hit the end with large hammer etc. Can I hurt anything applying heat in the tapered area to get these drums to come off the axle? I'd like to keep the drums obviously if there is enough metal left to machine. Next question what is the minimum thickness of the drum safe to still use. Want to hear it here before I take them to the machine shop.

03-15-2011, 06:45 AM	#2
FlatheadTed Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Auckland Posts: 4,709	Re: removing rear 35 brake drums Jack up the far side ,with the nut on level, hit it with a big hammer .Some heat shouldn't hurt, 90 th will be the turning limit. __________________ http://www.flatheadted.com Flathead Ted brake Floaters ,

03-15-2011, 07:24 AM	#3
danliveshere Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cairns , Australia Posts: 754	Re: removing rear 35 brake drums Ted I've got 1 wheel off , the other side still on the floor. Are you saying jack both sides up, or are you saying only the other side and put the side I'm trying to take off on the ground with the wheel bolted on. My tool has the ability to hit the end of the axle while keeping load on the brake drum.Will try some heat in the morning.

03-15-2011, 09:22 AM	#4
JM 35 Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland Posts: 10,862	Re: removing rear 35 brake drums Do you have a puller that fits in the groove on the hub? If so, and you have torqued it down to the limit, hit the end of the bolt with a large hammer and the hub did not move, heat is your next step. Sometimes the brake linings will wear into the drums enough to create an edge that will hang up on the linings/shoes when you try to pull the drums. Sometimes, if you are working on a running/drivable vehicle, you can loosen the axle nut and drive the vehicle around doing some tight turns in either direction to break the taper fit loose. __________________ *John* *"Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein* Last edited by JM 35 Sedan; 03-15-2011 at 09:27 AM.

03-15-2011, 09:32 AM	#5
Uncle Bob Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Salado, TX. Posts: 733	Re: removing rear 35 brake drums In addition to what has been suggested above, the last '35 I pulled drums on did the same as you described (though I doubt it's unique to '35). With tension on the puller I rapidly tapped the taper of the hub with a small ballpeen (setting up a vibration) and it popped free with about a 15-20 beat. __________________ Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.

03-15-2011, 03:59 PM	#8
ford1 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: oroville ca. Posts: 1,554	Re: removing rear 35 brake drums next time before you put the puller on take two large ballpeen hammers, use one as a back up on the drum snout, smack the opposite side with the other hammer, work your way all the way around the snout, hit it pretty hard but not so hard as to damage anything, doing this distorts the nout just a fraction thus breaking the wedge between the axle and drum, then try to pull the drum

03-15-2011, 08:10 PM	#9
danliveshere Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cairns , Australia Posts: 754	Re: removing rear 35 brake drums Thanks guys, left the tool loaded overnight. First hit this morning it popped!! Other side was pretty good. Both drums appear to be very good. Even the linings had plenty of life left in them. Hope the inside of the diff is as nice. Not sure of the ratio as yet.