The Ford Barn

sprint29 · 04-06-2017, 01:06 PM

I am restoring a 1936 pickup back to as original as I can. I am working on the mech. brakes. I am wondering about the rod lengths from the center shaft out to the hubs. I saw in the big green bible that they give a length of the front and rear rods. Does that dimension include the clevis (hole to hole dim.) or just the rod alone? Also, Does anyone know the approx. position of the center shaft before any final adjustments are made? ( how far the top leans back).I'm not sure where to start.
Thanks in advance
Mark

Terry,OH · 04-06-2017, 01:14 PM

Just the rod from the C/L of the clevis pin hole to the end of the threads.

Charlie ny · 04-06-2017, 04:52 PM

I stayed with mech brakes when I restored my '35. Any excessively worn parts were repaired ( mostly egged shaped linkage holes ). I was sure everything , rod length and
adjustments were close prior to installing the body etc. Subtle changes take place
as weight is added to the chassis. I ended up one by one removing the rods and
running a 5/16-24 die down the threads adding about an additional 1/2" to thread length dimension. I then shortening the rods which I found were
stretched somewhat. I custom fitted each rod for each corner. The most slam dunk
thing was to use equalizers front and rear. Best to use new clevis pins too.
Charlie ny

sprint29 · 04-06-2017, 05:46 PM

Charlie,
Thanks for the advice. I came up with rods from a 2ton truck so I was going to shorten them to the proper length. When I use the length from the green book it seems that they will be too long. I can make about anything work if I know the approx. position of the cluster shaft at rest that is in the middle of the frame.
Thanks

FlatheadTed · 04-06-2017, 06:15 PM

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Hi Mark Just to add to the good posts ,all arms should be forward at the start of travel about 15 to 20 deg so when the brakes are applied they will not be past centre ,So the cross shaft and pedal rod needs to be adjusted first to this spec then the wheel rods after that ,The length of rods are dictated by the ware in drums and condition of linings also that can cause the clevis arm to be farther forward than what's desired . With new lining and the adjustment done so the drum barely rolls check the clevis arm for angle weld up the ball on the actuator wedge so the arms goes forward .Ted

04-06-2017, 01:06 PM	#1
sprint29 Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: springfield,mo Posts: 75	36 pickup brake questions I am restoring a 1936 pickup back to as original as I can. I am working on the mech. brakes. I am wondering about the rod lengths from the center shaft out to the hubs. I saw in the big green bible that they give a length of the front and rear rods. Does that dimension include the clevis (hole to hole dim.) or just the rod alone? Also, Does anyone know the approx. position of the center shaft before any final adjustments are made? ( how far the top leans back).I'm not sure where to start. Thanks in advance Mark

04-06-2017, 01:14 PM	#2
Terry,OH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,804	Re: 36 pickup brake questions Just the rod from the C/L of the clevis pin hole to the end of the threads.

04-06-2017, 04:52 PM	#3
Charlie ny BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 3,019	Re: 36 pickup brake questions I stayed with mech brakes when I restored my '35. Any excessively worn parts were repaired ( mostly egged shaped linkage holes ). I was sure everything , rod length and adjustments were close prior to installing the body etc. Subtle changes take place as weight is added to the chassis. I ended up one by one removing the rods and running a 5/16-24 die down the threads adding about an additional 1/2" to thread length dimension. I then shortening the rods which I found were stretched somewhat. I custom fitted each rod for each corner. The most slam dunk thing was to use equalizers front and rear. Best to use new clevis pins too. Charlie ny

04-06-2017, 05:46 PM	#4
sprint29 Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: springfield,mo Posts: 75	Re: 36 pickup brake questions Charlie, Thanks for the advice. I came up with rods from a 2ton truck so I was going to shorten them to the proper length. When I use the length from the green book it seems that they will be too long. I can make about anything work if I know the approx. position of the cluster shaft at rest that is in the middle of the frame. Thanks

04-06-2017, 06:15 PM	#5
FlatheadTed Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Auckland Posts: 4,709	Re: 36 pickup brake questions Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Hi Mark Just to add to the good posts ,all arms should be forward at the start of travel about 15 to 20 deg so when the brakes are applied they will not be past centre ,So the cross shaft and pedal rod needs to be adjusted first to this spec then the wheel rods after that ,The length of rods are dictated by the ware in drums and condition of linings also that can cause the clevis arm to be farther forward than what's desired . With new lining and the adjustment done so the drum barely rolls check the clevis arm for angle weld up the ball on the actuator wedge so the arms goes forward .Ted __________________ http://www.flatheadted.com Flathead Ted brake Floaters , Last edited by FlatheadTed; 04-06-2017 at 06:26 PM.