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03-10-2012, 09:03 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Barrington, NJ
Posts: 280
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New Radius (wishbone) Arm
Finally found a radius arm to replace the old one. Painted all the parts as I cleaned them, and I am now putting everything back together. Now it seems that the water pump decided to start leaking at the adjustable nut. I tightened it but still drips. Is there a packing I can put in, or does it just need to be rebuilt? Also, the old radius arm had the rubber ball. Should I replace the ball or just use the washer if needed. I believe this is what controls the castor measurements, and maybe I don’t even need the washer at all. What say all you?
Thanks, Tom |
03-10-2012, 09:12 AM | #2 |
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Location: Miami Fl.
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Re: New Radius (wishbone) Arm
grease and part of lether belt can work too for ball,but rubber caps can be got now
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03-10-2012, 09:30 AM | #3 |
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Re: New Radius (wishbone) Arm
You'll need to replace the oversized caps and the rubber cover to put the radius ball back to the original way it was built. I always do this when I come across the rubber cover repair. Grease the ball with Mystik JT-6 high temp grease.
For the water pump I've had a leakess pump for the past 10 years by using the lead packing rings and grease. Be sure to grease the lead rings well during installation, then run the engine and retighten the collar as needed. After an hour running time I retightened the collar and haven't touched it since. All future pump rebuilds will include a new rear bushing with the double lip seal. This will keep the antifreeze seperate from the grease, and along with the lead rings will provide double protection against any leaks. I use the original front bearing, and give it a shot of grease when I grease the chassis. |
03-10-2012, 09:45 AM | #4 |
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Re: New Radius (wishbone) Arm
Is replacing the ball caps an extensive job or relatively easy?
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03-10-2012, 10:31 AM | #5 |
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Re: New Radius (wishbone) Arm
Tom, the rubber ball and the washer are "fix's" for a worn ball on the front radius arm. You need to inspect the ball and see if it is out of round or undersize. If not worn, use all original type parts to replace what you took off. If worn go with the rubber ball kit or washers. Brattons Catalog - http://www.brattons.com/prodtype.asp...earchCriteria=
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03-10-2012, 03:24 PM | #6 | |
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Re: New Radius (wishbone) Arm
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Quote:
The above advise if great but it may be good to look in one of the books to make sure you do it the correct way. Books could be the Andrews book etc.
__________________
Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster |
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03-11-2012, 09:27 AM | #7 |
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Location: Barrington, NJ
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Re: New Radius (wishbone) Arm
The new wishbone must be real good because I can't get the ball over the nob. So I will order the new set as original. The pin holding the bolts in place was bent??? Must have taken a good shot at one time. Looks tough changing the bolts through that small hole...any tricks for a guy with fat fingers...lol Thanks guys, Tom
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03-11-2012, 09:42 AM | #8 |
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Re: New Radius (wishbone) Arm
There was a discussion on this a while back. Try using the "search" function.
Paul in CT |
03-11-2012, 01:01 PM | #9 |
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Re: New Radius (wishbone) Arm
Model A's did not originally use the rubber ball. Ford changed to the rubber ball in 1932 and used it until 48. Ford had a repair cap to use the rubber ball on Model A's after the original parts were no longer available.
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03-11-2012, 10:32 PM | #10 | |
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Re: New Radius (wishbone) Arm
Quote:
It's an easy job. |
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03-18-2017, 11:37 AM | #11 |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
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Re: New Radius (wishbone) Arm
assume the shim cup washer goes on top of ball due to grease hole ?
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03-19-2017, 05:48 AM | #12 |
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Location: Frelighsburg, QC
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Re: New Radius (wishbone) Arm
I believe the hole in the washer is to make it easier to conform to the curvature of the cup. I prefer to have the washer on the bottom so it has less tendency (due to gravity) to ´go for a walk´ inside the cavity.
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03-19-2017, 06:00 AM | #13 |
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Re: New Radius (wishbone) Arm
Use a good magnet-on-a-stick to avoid dropping the old bolts inside the housing as you are removing them. To install the new bolts, use a length of safety wire with a noose under the head of the bolt so you can fish it up and then down again once aligned with the hole. Using that magnet again, from the bottom, helps catch the end of the bolt. Once home (with a nut on the end), you then pull the safety wire away from the head of the bolt. Hope this helps.
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03-19-2017, 03:32 PM | #14 |
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Re: New Radius (wishbone) Arm
when springs compressed and cotters installed , how much gap should there be between the top and bottom clamping plates assuming the radius ball is to spec ? another recent thread says about 1/4" and looks to be about that in the cedar creek.org photo.
Last edited by duke36; 03-19-2017 at 03:42 PM. |
03-19-2017, 06:01 PM | #15 | |
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Re: New Radius (wishbone) Arm
Quote:
I figure if the gap is 1/8" or more I'm good for a long time. Grease the ball When you assemble it. |
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03-19-2017, 08:13 PM | #16 |
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Location: Hebron, CT
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Re: New Radius (wishbone) Arm
Take a piece of 1/2 plywood and drill a smooth 1-1/2" diameter hole with a wood boring bit. Use this as a gauge to detemine where the wear is and how much.
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