Mechanical Brakes

[jwaldrich]

Been working on the brakes trying to get rid of pulsating. Except for that she stops well. BUT... that pulsating is driving me nuts.

The front drums mic'd out below the 130 thou minimum (according to the parts books). One was under 100 thou.

Found the shaft stud was trashed http://www.mikes-afordable.com/product/A2051.html. When I first looked it was only finger tight. When I tightened it up the wedge http://www.mikes-afordable.com/product/A2050.html would not allow the brakes to release.

The shoes all look new and you can tell there has been work done in this area. In reality just the right front is "questionable" in my mind.

Mike's got some $ today only because they were cheaper than their competition. (I shop around. Pretty happy with all vendors.)

First effort on brakes. Wish me luck!

[Tiny]

Pulsing brakes usually indicate out of round or warped drums

[larrys40]

There is a lot to ensure that you have good performing brakes.
The original steel drums really weren't suppose to be turned but replaced... but it is acceptable to turn them to a reasonable diameter of .050-.060 over the stock 11.0 diameter. Since you have a pulsating pedal you either have a drum out of round and/or a shoe that is not centered as well. It takes a brake centering gauge like the early KR Wilson tool or there are now some centering gauges sold by Brattons and snyders.

Welding or replacing the brake roller tracks to original dimensions are key, and making sure with the centering tools things are "centered" properly. The lower wedge should be snug on the outer nut. If the wedge is binding it is because of a bind/burr/ or possible even worn spindle bolts/loose backing plate can cause issues when brakes are applied. Also make sure your front outer bearing race is tight in the hub as if it is not it can cause you issues as described as well. It is worth it to take things apart and see what's going on, check all pivot points, shoe rollers and pins/anchors, wedges, tracks, pins, etc. Also be careful of video's on you tube on their adjustment recommendations. The service bulletins from Ford are really good.

Brakes may be easy on modern cars, but it takes a lot of checking out and attention to detail to "restore" them to as new on a Model A. Once done and adjusted properly you will be amazed how well they will stop. Don't be cheap on solving/restoring your brake issues. It isn't worth it. Everyone else around you can stop faster than you these days.. and they are... right in front of you... So it is a must your brakes are not just good... but great.

I have done many a brake job as it is one of my specialties. Comprehensive brake jobs under a service basis is a 30-40 hour job when you know what you're doing. Don't shortcut.

Larry Shepard

[Mitch//pa]

a quick check to determine which brake / axle is at fault is to remove one rod at a time doing a quick road test until the pulsation goes away.. be careful on the front as it will pull hard when only having one rod hooked up.

[jwaldrich]

Originally Posted by larrys40

There is a lot to ensure that you have good performing brakes.
The original steel drums really weren't suppose to be turned but replaced... but it is acceptable to turn them to a reasonable diameter of .050-.060 over the stock 11.0 diameter. Since you have a pulsating pedal you either have a drum out of round and/or a shoe that is not centered as well. It takes a brake centering gauge like the early KR Wilson tool or there are now some centering gauges sold by Brattons and snyders.

Welding or replacing the brake roller tracks to original dimensions are key, and making sure with the centering tools things are "centered" properly. The lower wedge should be snug on the outer nut. If the wedge is binding it is because of a bind/burr/ or possible even worn spindle bolts/loose backing plate can cause issues when brakes are applied. Also make sure your front outer bearing race is tight in the hub as if it is not it can cause you issues as described as well. It is worth it to take things apart and see what's going on, check all pivot points, shoe rollers and pins/anchors, wedges, tracks, pins, etc. Also be careful of video's on you tube on their adjustment recommendations. The service bulletins from Ford are really good.

Brakes may be easy on modern cars, but it takes a lot of checking out and attention to detail to "restore" them to as new on a Model A. Once done and adjusted properly you will be amazed how well they will stop. Don't be cheap on solving/restoring your brake issues. It isn't worth it. Everyone else around you can stop faster than you these days.. and they are... right in front of you... So it is a must your brakes are not just good... but great.

I have done many a brake job as it is one of my specialties. Comprehensive brake jobs under a service basis is a 30-40 hour job when you know what you're doing. Don't shortcut.

Larry Shepard

Larry,
Wish you were MUCH closer!

[jwaldrich]

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Originally Posted by Tiny

Pulsing brakes usually indicate out of round or warped drums

That was my thought to but I did find other issues.

[31 Model A]

Originally Posted by jwaldrich

Larry,
Wish you were MUCH closer!

He is for me, he has my Sarah right now fixing things that I have no knowledge to do myself. She was running better even before he towed her away. He'll do a brake job on her next winter, if I'm still around.