Original Ammeter

[jkcrosson]

Is the picture attached an original ammeter or a aftermarket?
thanks

[160B]

After market! The originals interior brass internals were painted black. Also bezel is not correct. Pointer not correct shape. Post a photo of the back side.

[jkcrosson]

Picture of back attached.

[glenn in camino]

On an original, you can't see the brass piece at the back. I think it's a repo.

[jkcrosson]

Oh well, it's not mine but on Ebay. Been looking for a good original with no luck. I have an original that needs to be restored. Any suggestions?

[160B]

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Originally Posted by jkcrosson

Picture of back attached.

It is REPO

The back is not correct. See the attached photo of an original front and back. Look at the insulators on the back, the bezel, the lettering, the shape of the pointer, the nuts, and numbers. And no brass internals showing.

[jkcrosson]

Actually, after realizing that I have an original ammeter in an old dash panel, it was silly to post the question here. Sorry for the inconvenience. Don't mean to post questions without being willing to research myself.

[Tom Wesenberg]

What is wrong with your original? Finish, or function? Or both?

[jkcrosson]

Finish for sure and possible function too.

[Purdy Swoft]

I remember the box and ammeter pictured above. The best that I remember, this is the ammeter that was sold by many of the model A parts houses in the sixties and seventies. This is a repro 26-27 model T part that can also be used on the model A. The model T was negative ground. If this ammeter is used on a positive ground model A you will have to reverse the wires or it will register backwards. I've used this type of ammeter many times over the years. They fit the instrument panel better and don't come apart like the ammeters that are now offered.

[Michael Cooper]

I'm going to change my original 20-20 ammeter for a cheep chinese 30amp because this is about what the gen puts out at full power. This is needed to run haligen tail lights (x2) and normal headlights. When the lights are not going during the day the poor needle disapairs on the charge side and condesation apears on the glass(not good). Of cause running the park lights brings the needle back into sight as long as the brain is fully engaged.

[Marco Tahtaras]

Originally Posted by 160B

It is REPO

The back is not correct. See the attached photo of an original front and back. Look at the insulators on the back, the bezel, the lettering, the shape of the pointer, the nuts, and numbers. And no brass internals showing.

Is it just the pic? The face plate lettering looks white instead of aluminum.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Michael Cooper

I'm going to change my original 20-20 ammeter for a cheep chinese 30amp because this is about what the gen puts out at full power. This is needed to run haligen tail lights (x2) and normal headlights. When the lights are not going during the day the poor needle disapairs on the charge side and condesation apears on the glass(not good). Of cause running the park lights brings the needle back into sight as long as the brain is fully engaged.

Are you running an alternator? The limit on the Model A generator is about 15 amps.
BTW, my 28 has the stock taillight and is plenty bright. At night I just glance back to make sure it's lit and I can see the road very well lit in back. Some people use LED's for the taillights since they are also bright and don't draw much current.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Marco Tahtaras

Is it just the pic? The face plate lettering looks white instead of aluminum.

Here is my original 1928 ammeter and it also looks white in the picture. I also have a photo of a June 1928 Tudor ammeter and it also appears white in pictures.

[Michael Cooper]

Tom
I think my gen is a late 30-31, with the 3rd brush pushed right down when running at night,
I have bright tail lights as we live rural, no street lighting or much traffic. Only having one 5watt tail light dos't give conferdace with cars gaining on you at speeds oftern above 100kph (60mph)
We have a 28 ragtop pickup with a drum tail light, hav'nt seen LEDs for them yet, would change!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Michael, do a Google search for "brightlights" or "britelights" and you'll probably find 6 volt LED bulbs that fit the drum taillight.

[RonC]

Here's a NOS faceplate with replated bezel. Notice the thickness and silver color of the lettering and hash marks. The ammeter is also NOS.

[d.j. moordigian]

What about this one? Note the part number in the lower left corner...

[160B]

Originally Posted by Marco Tahtaras

Is it just the pic? The face plate lettering looks white instead of aluminum.

Here is an excerpt from the Model A Ford Judging Standards and Restoration Guidelines Area 6 Instruments and Controls page 6-2 Revised 2011. Under the paragraph on Ammeter

“The pointer on the gauge came in two different styles ........... and may appear brighter than the scale on the face.”

Also here are two photos of the ammeter in my 1931S/W Town Sedan, I acquired in 1998 with 60,000 original miles.

It appears to be a combination of the "may appear brighter " and the photos.

[160B]

Originally Posted by d.j. moordigian

What about this one? Note the part number in the lower left corner...

This ammeter has the different style lettering, but otherwise looks the same to me and just like the JS states

“The pointer on the gauge came in two different styles (see photo) and may appear brighter than the scale on the face.”