Brass wire ends install/solder

[Pamlico]

Can someone please teach me how to solder on the brass wire ends common on 34 and other early Fords? Thank you!

[J Franklin]

All parts to be soldered need to be clean and free of contaminents. the iron needs to be hot and tinned. use soldering flux and hold the heat on until the solder melts and turns shiny when liquid. Hold everything steady until the solder flashes to dull. Job done!

[rotorwrench]

Tinned copper terminals are better but sourcing some of these in the original bullet pin and socket type are not as easy as they once were. Soldering requires a flux so that's where the resin core comes in. I use a good quality soldering iron and the modern tin/silver/copper solder with resin core for electricals. Use tin/lead with resin if you want to but I have good results with the modern stuff. I trim and prep the ends of the wire and then tin them on the ends with solder before joining to a terminal end. I keep a wet rag or sponge close by to cool and clean the soldering iron tip when it gets too hot or too loaded with solder. Place the tinned wire into the terminal then heat the terminal and apply enough solder to get both well joined. It doesn't take much with a pre-tinned wire end. If is a solder cup type terminal, just fill the cup when joining.

There are holding clamp fixture tools that will hold assemblies for you to keep your hands free to work. If you use them just make sure they aren't so close to the solder joint as to pull too much heat from the parts to be joined. I sometimes hold the solder between my teeth to free up my hands. What ever it takes to get the job done.

[Pamlico]

Thanks for responding...I have some soldering paste but don't know if that is the same as flux. Seems like a short window of time between heating the soldered wire and sliding on the brass end. And once it is on, I don't know how to add more solder since the brass end is slid up to the wire insulation. I seem to be the expert at making simple jobs difficult! I wish there was a video of someone doing this! I get a lot of useful tips from YouTube.

[J Franklin]

Fill the end with solder and then plunge the wire in, you won't need to add any more solder.

[Pamlico]

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That's the answer! Thank you!

[Hitman]

That is the answer and the common way it's done. You actually cut a piece of solder that fits into the end, push it in, heat the connector and push the wire in. It's super easy.

[rich b]

Originally Posted by Pamlico

That's the answer! Thank you!

Check you private messages.

[Terry,OH]

Use rosin core solder not acid core, in the thinnest diameter available. Hardware stores usually have it. No need for additional flux with electrical work. When done remove any trace of the flux usually comes off with ease.

[Drbrown]

Just a comment: In general, soldering wire into brass fitiings is desirable to reduce resistance in the connection. Resistance can create heat and minutely reduces voltage thru the connection. Overall, reducing resistance in the electrical system may enhance light bulb brightness, motor effiency and battery life.

[rotorwrench]

I only use brass when I have no other choice in my kit. I purchase every old copper terminal I run across. You just can't beat copper for good energy transfer unless you own a gold or silver mine.

Most solder paste types don't use resin. I use the stuff for silver soldering but that's about it. Too much solder capillates too far up the wire and makes it brittle. Acid type flux can be corrosive.

[s.e.charles]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

. . .
Most solder paste types don't use resin. I use the stuff for silver soldering but that's about it. Too much solder capillates too far up the wire and makes it brittle. Acid type flux can be corrosive.

maybe only on boats, but the expedition guys also poo-poo the use of soldered connections specifically for the vibration/ break cycle.

cars get away with this why?

thanks,

sid

[fredM]

If you have got the money, get a butane model. $50ish dollars. Much more convenient.

[32phil]

As a rule, I solder only AFTER the connection is properly crimped.
In a former life I was an electronics Technician and spent my career repairing/maintaining Medical instruments in hospital labs and physician's office labs.
The reason I always crimp first is that crimping gives a good mechanical grip on the wire. When you solder after it gives a better electrical connection. If the joint overheats the solder could melt out but the mechanical connection will remain. In an automobile vibration is a big factor as well. I always shrink tube the exposed end of the connector to help strengthen the joint.

[Drbrown]

32phil makes good points. Personally I always crimped the fitting before soldering and pending location of the attachment, shrink-tube the fitting shank .... especially if the fitting is connecting two butt-end wires together.

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by 32phil

As a rule, I solder only AFTER the connection is properly crimped.
In a former life I was an electronics Technician and spent my career repairing/maintaining Medical instruments in hospital labs and physician's office labs.
The reason I always crimp first is that crimping gives a good mechanical grip on the wire. When you solder after it gives a better electrical connection. If the joint overheats the solder could melt out but the mechanical connection will remain. In an automobile vibration is a big factor as well. I always shrink tube the exposed end of the connector to help strengthen the joint.

Ditto, but I don't solder most connections other than the battery cable lugs. Trick is having a good crimper and if you solder get a good hot iron which will heat the connector quickly and not way up the wire. If the solder migrates up the wire it will be brittle and fail over time. I also shrink tube the end of the fitting and the wire to make it less flexible to avoid soldered wire fatigue.

https://www.vintageconnections.com/collections/tools

[fredM]

I also crimp before soldering.