1932 upper steering arm

[RB]

I've read several posts regarding the original 32 steering gear when used with 37-41 spindles & after market upper arms & the concerns it creates. The original 32 left side spindle was formed with the integral arm tweeked forward of the spindle centerline for the correct steering geometry with respect to the steering gear. Here in lies my question, I would like to for now to retain the 32 gear & the 37-41 spindles ---does anyone produce a steering arm with the correct tweek that would bolt to my spindles ? So-Cal, Speedway & others show arms that could be used with some heat/bend modification & perhaps this is the only solution, just curious. Incidently, I used the later spindles to mount wide 5 Frankland full float alum.hubs & drums to duplicate a vintage modified. I know Richard (Early Ford Garage) speaks strongly regarding retaining 32 spindle/ steer gear, however trying to stay close to the original build as possible with minimum frame rail modification.

[Bruce Lancaster]

I think actual need here is for an adjustable drag link. Richard probably supplies that for the early ball type spindles or one can be made from a tie rod...you'll need to go industrial supply for the odd die needed. No need for the '37 spindles.
With late spindles...'32 steering arm has removable ball. It can be adapted to '35-48 type tie rod end, then drag link made from a later tie rod or a streetrod one purchased.

[RB]

Thanks Bruce, An adjustable drag link is the probably the best solution, I thought since a steering arm will be needed anyway I was hoping someone produced one that might per chance even utilize the original drag link. Not a big deal however since these old racers were changed many times over through the years often times limited to what was available or close at hand. I do need to stay with later spindles to use the full float hubs & drums as these were part of the orginal build & as you are probably aware a safety requirement as well. Ron

[Bruce Lancaster]

I don't think I ever saw an Old Ford modified that didn't have 5 pounds of welding rod and an old fence post incorporated into the drag link!

[RB]

Right you are Bruce, this particular 32 was top notch until a new build replaced it, & was still competitive with 2 later owners, providing a stepping stone to Nascar & sprint car rides for two drivers. However it's sad to say this competitive undertaking lead to the demiss of far too many coupes & sedans through the years. Thanks Ron

[Bruce Lancaster]

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My favorite old junkyard in Pennsylvania containe a '32 3-window that I guess must have been a super modified...
Body had been narrowed, shortened, chopped, trimmed and had everything welded shut...but was still recognizable. Frame also was real '32, again modified in every possible way and supporting a substantial cage and all sorts of tubing bars. Naturally, it was something belonging to owner's friend and was carefully isolated from lunatics like me. This was about 1967, and everything about the yard was teetering on the edge of bankruptcy and ruin. Owner was ancient, and his assistant was a presumably homeless guy who slept on the bottom shelf of a workbench!
Now it's a housing development...

[RB]

Thanks Bruce, As mentioned many coupes/sedans were used up this way,then again many were hastily hot rodded,chopped/channeled & so on. Still others would be works of rolling art, or garner racing records that in it's self provided safe harbor by a proud owner/driver to survive for many decades. These I believe are an exciting area of collectability weather it be midgets, bonneville, stock cars, vintage rods or cutoms. I would imagine at least someone lived out their dream creating what they saw in their eye as the ultimate, where as in todays world it's off to the crusher. Ron

[Bruce Lancaster]

The one I described was pretty neatly built and had the remnants of a good paint job. The body actually looked a great deal like the the little fiberglass shells that would be on the modern version of that sort of car...it would have been a cool project then, now I betcha it's 4 feet below the floor of someone's basement back in Carlisle.
It was already obsolete back then...the then-current cars of that general sort would have just had a few sheetmetal strips attached to their roll cages to sort of suggest a roof and door...

[barryfromvictoria]

rb-- i don`t know of any steering arm that is made correctly today or in the last 70 years with the correct offset. it amazes me that manufacturers and hot rod shops don`t realize that the steering arms they are making and installing are made wrong. it would be so simple to make them right. obviously they don`t test their designs or installations. adjustable draglinks and clocking pitman arms will connect the steering box but it won`t correct the geometry and will turn more turns in one direction from center. the center cannot be changed because of the high spot in steering box. this makes it steer tighter in the straight ahead position. the only proper fix is to bend the after market steering arm forward the same amount that all stock 28-34 spindle arms come from the factory.

[PeteVS]

Speedway Motors has the right taps (both RH and LH) if you want to use a shortened tie rod.

[RB]

Thanks Pete & Barry , I believe Pete intended to comment with respect to the drag link & not the tie rod as stated in his reply, thanks Pete I did see the 11/16" (L) & (R) taps are available although the left hand rather pricey at 80.00. I would suppose when fabricating a drag link the appropriate donor ends could be utilized saving that expense however.......I'm inclined to agree with your comments Barry, not certain if I my pea size brain can savy all that input, but yes I have observed the original 32 spindles swing in an upward arch as it steers left to right & back again.

[RB]

Sorry, hit a wrong button, was going to further my reply as to why an after market arm can't be made to follow this same configuration. I can only surmise the after market arms appeal to the masses, 37-41 spindles, Vega gear boxes & so on. Thanks, Ron

[Flathead Fever]

Years ago I bought this adjustable drag link for $10.00, I figured the chrome was worth that much. It looks like someone took a hollow tie rod and cut it down and then tapped the inside of the tube and then cut a slit in it so the pinch clamp could do its job. As long as this tube was not made too thin at the threads I guess it would be ok??? You could do the same thing with a solid tie rod, cut it down and then thread the outside of the solid shaft.

Installing a dropped axle will also change the length of the drag link which causes a couple of other problems. The steering wheel will be crooked and with a keyway in the steering wheel instead of splines there is no way to straighten it out. Also, the steering box will no longer be centered on the high spots of the worm and sector gears, which helps the steering from wandering around in the straight ahead position. The only solution in this situation is to install an adjustable drag link.

[NealinCA]

I have heard there was a reason Ford used the spring loaded ends on draglinks for the side steer cars. The "modern" tierod end didn't come into play until cross steering came along in '35...then mysteriously Ford went back to the spring type ends on the 48-52 F-1 side steer draglink. The theory I heard was that those early style ends were needed to absorb road shock...thus reducing the "bump steer" effect.

Hot rodders started replacing their original draglinks with modern tierod ends and side steer got a bad rap for bump steer. I think Ford built them that way for a reason...

Neal

[Fordors]

RB, to expand on what Barry is saying the arm on the stock spindle is forward of the axle so that the intersection of the arm and the drag link form a 90* angle with the wheels pointed straight ahead. That is the geometry Barry spoke of that allows equal steering in both directions. As far as the stock arm raising when you turn left that's happening because of the caster setting on the axle.
I don't really know about the stock spring loaded d/l ends but I can say from experience that if a side steer d/l, with tie rod ends or even Heim joints, moves up and down on the same plane as the radius rods (wishbone, split 'bone, four bar) the bump steer is negligible.

[RB]

To all who responded thanks for your input, currently rebuilding the 32 gear box & contemplated using the 15-1 internals if severe wear was evident, however looks as if all that is required is the lower bearing & gasket kit so will leave well enough alone for now. As for the upper steering arm, for the most part all my suspicions have been confirmed & I'm inclined to try an after market flame cut or forged type (non cast) & heat & tweak it to mimic the original 32 plane of travel. Ron

[Richard (EV8G)]

The 32 steering box needs a 33-up style oil tube and plate that rises above the
gear oil level (installs on the bottom of the worm housing - originally had just a cork "seal" and concave washer that was supposed to compress the cork around the light switch rod to prevent leaks, but didn't...) AND machine the sector housing for a lip seal to eliminate leaks at that location. You would like
the 15:1 gears ALOT better than the 13:1... Also, install a roller bearing at the
top of the column; that will make for a huge reduction in steering effort...

[NealinCA]

Originally Posted by Richard (EV8G)

Also, install a roller bearing at the
top of the column; that will make for a huge reduction in steering effort...

Is there a specefic bearing that you'd suggest that does the trick? I'd like to add one on my rpu.

Thanks,

Neal

[RB]

Thanks Richard, The box I'm rebuilding is I believe a gemmer with a 'G' cast & #12132 which was from an early mopar p.u. as used on my 32 racer. As you may know the box casting is identical with exception of the casting i.d. as mentioned above & no threaded holes for the bottom switch, only a freeze plug type seal which the tube you discussed is attached to. The internals are close, however a longer sector is used which in turn passes through a detachable mounting casting that enables the box to mount on top or the bottom of the frame rail rather than passing through it. I'm uncertain of the ratio, as I recall it was about 5 & 1/8 turns lock to lock. How does this compare to the 13-1 or 15-1 ??? You might pm me with prices on internals etc. as I've an additional box redo on another project. Apparently these boxes were utilized throughout the industry with differing internals & brackets to fit various aplications. Ron