Are brake floaters worth it?

[freak]

Since I'm re-doing my brakes I noticed the floater kits. Pretty expensive. Kits range from $200-260. Are these worth the cost?

[Bill G]

After three tries at the Flathead brand, I gave up. The instructions say that all parts need to be in tip-top shape before proceeding. That was probably my issue to begin with. I was kind of seduced by the notion that putting the kit on that my Model A brakes would magically be like a modern car brakes. My brakes actually work very well with stock and standard parts and while my brakes are all standard parts, they are pretty new with Randy Gross shoes and cast iron drums. I am pretty happy with what I have and my Flathead kit now sits on the shelf. My advice is to see what you can do with good standard parts before going that route.

[Jack Shaft]

Absolutely, worth every nickle..like anything else, when installing them you have to be conscious of how they work and do the extras,making sure things slide and fit as they should.

[SteveE]

Does anyone else have the newest Flathead Ted brake floater kit?

I just installed the right rear and wanted to ensure that I placed the two new silver and gold rectangular adjusters in the correct configuration. The Ted instructions are not very clear nor were his sketch and pictures. I placed them on the right side on the back of the rollers with the hole on top for the cotter pins.

Do they go in the other direction with the offset rectangular face on top?

[mercman from oz]

Larger picture of this brake backing plate fitted with Ted's Brake Floaters.
Steve's Question - are they fitted correctly?

[Y-Blockhead]

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Originally Posted by SteveE

Does anyone else have the newest Flathead Ted brake floater kit?

I just installed the right rear and wanted to ensure that I placed the two new silver and gold rectangular adjusters in the correct configuration. The Ted instructions are not very clear nor were his sketch and pictures. I placed them on the right side on the back of the rollers with the hole on top for the cotter pins.

Do they go in the other direction with the offset rectangular face on top?

Steve, you have them installed correctly. They replace the stock roller pins and ride on the roller tracks.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...earchByKeyword

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/R...itting-559.pdf

[SteveE]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Steve, you have them installed correctly. They replace the stock roller pins and ride on the roller tracks.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...earchByKeyword

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/R...itting-559.pdf

Thank you! Now off to the left side and fronts looked pretty easy. The video I viewed of the install was for the older kit and it threw me off a bit.

[Gene F]

Originally Posted by Bill G

After three tries at the Flathead brand, I gave up. The instructions say that all parts need to be in tip-top shape before proceeding. That was probably my issue to begin with. I was kind of seduced by the notion that putting the kit on that my Model A brakes would magically be like a modern car brakes. My brakes actually work very well with stock and standard parts and while my brakes are all standard parts, they are pretty new with Randy Gross shoes and cast iron drums. I am pretty happy with what I have and my Flathead kit now sits on the shelf. My advice is to see what you can do with good standard parts before going that route.

"Randy Gross shoes" - ???

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Gene F

"Randy Gross shoes" - ???

I have Randy Gross shoes also, work great.

[WHN]

I have a completely rebuilt stock braking system on our 29, we even still have steel drums.

Wheels lock up. What more can you ask for. Once locked! That’s it.

If rebuilt correctly, original braking system should work fine. Just make sure you look at every part. Don’t cut corners. Every part.......

[larrys40]

You don’t need the brake floaters . Restore the original system properly, use cast iron drums, arc shoes to drum. Pay attention to detail, And set up and adjust system properly. I have done hundreds of a brake jobs and am NOT an advocate for the aftermarket gimmicks .
My brake jobs lock them up .
Larry Shepard

[MAG]

X2 on Post #5.
If you have to install floaters to make them work you haven't done something correctly.

[alexiskai]

Is "can you lock up your brakes, yes or no" really the sole criterion for whether the floater kits have value? I thought the point was that the floaters reduced the amount of pedal pressure required to apply a given amount of braking force, making the brakes more responsive.

[Patrick L.]

Some folks swear by them while some swear at them.

Energizing brakes are a good thing, but, I've not felt the need.

Mine will lock up at 40 mph with steel drums. I think the limiting factor is the skinny tires.

[TerryH]

I had them installed many years ago, and they never did work properly, even after having several other knowledgeable Model A folks look at them. I removed them and went back to stock, and am aware some have great luck with them.....

[nkaminar]

They are worth the cost to me. My brakes were in good shape before I installed the floaters. The pedal pressure is reduced to about one-third. You remove the large springs which some people have said that is why the pedal pressure is reduced, but the spring pressure is a small fraction of the total brake pedal pressure.

One important advantage is even wear of the shoes. With the standard setup, one shoe is self energized while the other is not.

With the self energizing feature they are almost like having power brakes.


They are a little difficult to install correctly but not for anyone with mechanical experience. You have to read all the available information and view the videos. Your brakes must be in as-new condition before installing the floaters.

[alexiskai]

Use the 2006/2007 MAT articles linked on Ted's site.

[Dick Carne]

I put them along with steel drums on my last restoration, but have no intentions to put them on my current restoration. I haven't been able to deduce any real difference with floaters than with the standard brake set-ups on my other cars. I am inclined to agree with those above who have suggested that a properly reworked original brake set up is probably the way to go ... and certainly much less expensive! Good luck whichever route you choose.

[Y-Blockhead]

I just went thru the brakes my Town Sedan (new cast drum, shoes, anything out of spec) and I felt my brakes were really good.

Then I won a FHT Brake Kit in the opportunity drawing at the OCMAC Pancake Breakfast a few years ago and I figured I would try them (cost me ~$5). I feel they are a definite improvement over the stock. They have been on my car for ~3 years now.

Read the various articles by Tom Endy and the Model A Times before you decide. Flat Head Ted video, not so much.

[Synchro909]

I recently went through the front brakes on a car that had Ted's kit installed by the previous owner but he hadn't done a good job of it. After taking it all out and reading the instructions (which it was clear the PO didn't do), we reassembled with care. That car now has brakes as good as any and better than most with a nice progressive feel on the pedal.
I suspect those cars where floaters and other kits have been installed with results less than expected are either poorly installed or the owner was expecting too much. Just sayin.