ignition lock

[56yblock]

i have a problem with my ignition lock , when i remove the keys, it stay on .
does anyone knows this problem?

[scrapiron]

Bum switch

[56yblock]

it was works good before that i remove the starter
what can i do?
do you think i'll must to change the whole parts?

[KULTULZ]

Something wired incorrectly, a short and/or bad IGN SW.

[Daves55Sedan]

Probably the easiest way to find out if the switch is bad internally, is to get your multi-meter, or just an ohmmeter. Disconnect the car battery (+) terminal post first. Then (with the key in the off position), touch the first probe to the battery terminal at the back of the ignition switch and the second probe to the coil terminal of the ignition switch. The needle on the ohmmeter should read maximum resistance. If the needle jumps to zero (which means no resistance), then most likely, the switch contacts are stuck. It could also mean that the switch is okay, but somewhere down the line, the ignition coil wire is shorted to the battery wire due to fault insulation on the two wires.

[KULTULZ]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Read This - -Ignition Switch Wiring - 1955, 1956, 1957-

Possibly why the stater drive was ruined.

[56yblock]

today after to have put back my starter on the car, she start up well
but now i have a problem
when the engine runs i can't stop with key
even if i remove the key the engine don't stop

[dmsfrr]

Sight unseen, my first guess is the ignition key switch is worn out.

[56yblock]

ok thanks for the answer
do you think i must to change just the ignition lock cylinder?
how to remove it?

[56yblock]

nobody?

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Read This - Ignition Switch Wiring - 1955- 1956- 1957

Possibly why the stater drive was ruined.

I found the below while Carousing With My Browser on the -POWERMASTER SITE--

Why does my starter seem to "run on" after the switch is released?



This is a common complaint on Ford permanent magnet starters, although it can occur on any permanent magnet starter in the right conditions. This situation develops when the ignition terminal on the starter is "jumpered" to the battery terminal on the starter and a remote solenoid is used. Permanent magnet starters can actually produce power if they are driven from an outside source (i.e. the starter will act like an alternator once the engine fires and starts spinning). The current produced in the starter for this second or so will flow from the starter's battery terminal to the starters ignition terminal and hold the solenoid in. This will cause the one to two second delay in the solenoid release and an irritating noise. The solution is to wire the starter per the instruction sheet, which will ensure that the ignition switch terminal goes dead the instance the key is released.

[KULTULZ]

Here is a YOU TUBE Video of a later MUSTANG IGN SW R&R. Both cars are similar (open to discussion-debate).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bv4vHMowVbY

Remove NEG BAT CABLE first!

[56yblock]

with my new starter drive i've no more problem to start
now the problem it's the ignition lock cylinder i think ....

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by 56yblock

with my new starter drive i've no more problem to start

now the problem it's the ignition lock cylinder i think ....

Here is an excerpt from the referring URL I posted-

The wiring diagram can be confusing, especially the ignition switch, for anyone using the FoMoCo Electrical Equipment Installation Manual for the first time.

The manual has been reproduced and is available from CTCI, item number110-25. The wiring is correct but the drawing of the back side of the ignition switch for the 1955 on page 18 and the 1956 on page 57 is not correct. It shows the post for the start wire (red/blue) #32 on the outer circumference of the switch with the other three post instead in the center as it was original made. The 1957 portion of the manual on page 99 corrected the drawing except for View F.

Take the time to read the article to ensure the switch is wired properly. If going to a new switch, try to find GENUINE FORD NOS -

IGN SW- B5A 11572-A (1952-1959 FORD-BIRD)

IGN SW Cylinder- B9A 11582-A

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by 56yblock

ok thanks for the answer
do you think i must to change just the ignition lock cylinder?
how to remove it?

no body?

I haven't tried removing a key cylinder from the switch housing recently enough to be very helpful.
There's usually a small spring loaded pin that releases the key cylinder.

Disconnect a battery cable first. The switch assembly comes out of the dash by unscrewing the chrome bezel.
Note the small letters on the switch housing for each wire connection terminal. Use some masking tape to label the wires with that same letter before you remove them.

The electrical part of the switch itself may be worn out internally, or the lock cylinder may be too worn to turn the switch correctly.
A new switch may come without a key cylinder. You might be able to re-use yours, or if it has excessive wear it may be part of the *won't shut off* problem.

Using NOS / Made in USA parts is worth the trouble to find them. The places that supply restoration parts for '55/'57 Thunderbird's sell the replacement ignition switch for just under $40 and the key cylinder for $10.

A locksmith shop should be able to re-fit the tumblers of a new key cylinder to use your existing key.
Given the number of years since new, it is also possible the key itself (and other key cylinders on the car) are also quite worn out.

Here's a link to another recent Ignition Switch question that may(?) be helpful...
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236176

.

[56yblock]

look my wiring i think it's correct

[dmsfrr]

Without being able to hold the switch myself I can't be 100%, but yes the wiring looks correct.

Here is a wiring diagram to compare...

http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/t...re5765-195.jpg

[56yblock]

there's a few differences, not the same to 100% with my wiring..

[KULTULZ]

You know something?

The starter relay maybe bad also...

[56yblock]

it's brand new